Contemporary Kogin-zashi: Modern Sashiko Beyond Filling in the Gaps

By Jason Bowlsby and Shannon Leigh Roudhan

Kogin-zashi is an iconic form of sashiko that stands on its own apart from Hitomezashi and Moyouzashi as both functional and breathtakingly beautiful. Based on the concept of filling in the gaps of loosely woven fabric, this Japanese mending and beautifying technique was historically a survival necessity and an act of defiance against the laws of an oppressive governing body that forbade the wearing of textiles made from warmer materials. Detailed photography and step-by-step visual instructions guide readers to create stunning projects using Kogin-zashi stitching. Alongside a robust stitch library, readers will find 10 projects to showcase their work.

• Language: English
• Publisher: C&T Publishing, Inc.
• Release date: Jan 10, 2023
• ISBN: 9781644031889

Book preview

The Supplies

The best feature of sashiko in general, and most certainly kogin-zashi is the accessibility. You don’t need access to a lot of expensive sewing equipment to create a beautiful piece of kogin fabric. Once you have the fabric cut, you need only a needle, thread snips, kogin needle, and your thread or floss. That said, here is a complete list of the tools we find indispensable. Most are relatively easy to find in your local craft store or even on our website at shannonandjason.com.

KOGIN SASHIKO NEEDLE

A kogin-zashi needle has a large eye, long shaft, and is different from a needle used for hitomezashi or moyouzashi because the tip is blunt, allowing for picking up and working between the threads of evenweave fabric without piercing the threads themselves.

SASHIKO NEEDLE

This needle is similar to a kogin sashiko, but with a much sharper tip for working with extra-fine fabrics to easily manipulate between the warp and weft threads, which are often more difficult to see.

THIMBLE WITH PALM PLATE

We use a Clover thimble with a palm plate, an adjustable ring that you place on your middle finger with the disc laying against your palm.

THREAD SNIPS

Gotta have a great pair of sharp thread snips close at hand. These Clover Kuroha thread snips are in every project bag and on every work surface around our studio and workspaces.

FABRIC SCISSORS

A sharp pair of sturdy fabric scissors is at the center of every fabric worker’s tool kit. Often labeled with FABRIC ONLY or DO NOT TOUCH THIS MEANS YOU, good fabric scissors make every cutting job easier. Wipe them clean and take them for sharpening regularly, and you will have an heirloom that future makers will cherish.

GOOD LIGHTING

Even on the brightest days when we are working in a window seat, having a clear, bright light like our Daylight Company Slimline 3 makes our stitching much easier and enjoyable.

MAGNIFIERS

We cannot stress strongly enough how useful it is to have a good magnifier lamp. Some fabrics with a lower thread count are fine for working with the naked eye, but we find our stitching goes much faster and is more accurate with a good magnifier and clear lighting like that from our Daylight Company Omega 3.5.

HAND SEWING NEEDLE

Hand sewing needles are a must for finishing the edges of fabrics and general sewing.