Fodor's The Complete Guide to African Safaris: with South Africa, Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, Namibia, Rwanda, Uganda, and Victoria Falls

By Fodor's Travel Guides

COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:

• One-of-a-Kind Guidebook: With comprehensive coverage and dozens of color photos, this guide is the only choice for travelers who want an in-depth safari-planning guide that covers the most popular destinations in Africa with recommendations for the best companies.
• Comprehensive Planning sections that provide all the important nuts and bolts information about picking the right safari destination, choosing the right tour operator, and planning a safari.
• Fun, color-photo features on topics including The Big Five, The Great Migration, and Mount Kilimanjaro.

TOURISM TRENDS:

• The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and 2021 caused a steep drop-off in tourism to many destinations, but travel to Eastern and Southern Africa from the U.S. has now reopened. The number of Americans traveling is expected to increase and keep growing through 2023.
• Safaris are built for social distancing as these open-air adventures have plenty of space, and the Safari appeal has only increased now that social-distancing measures are becoming the new normal.

FULLY REDESIGNED!

• New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
• New back cover is fully-redesigned
• Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
• Other useful features including Know Before You Go, Tips for Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, and more
• Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

CURATED AND RELEVANT:

• Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
• Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

CONCISE:

• Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

• Language: English
• Publisher: Fodor's Travel
• Release date: Mar 7, 2022
• ISBN: 9781640975088

Fodor's Travel Guides

For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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Chapter 1: EXPERIENCE AN AFRICAN SAFARI

25 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

African safaris offer terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Rise over vast plains or deserts in a hot-air balloon

Take game-viewing to new heights on a hot-air balloon ride and watch the sun bathe the sky and landscapes at sunrise. The most popular rides are over Kenya’s Masai Mara, Tanzania’s Serengeti, and the Namib Desert in Namibia. (Ch. 3, 4, 9)

2

Trek to meet mountain gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda

Groups of habituated mountain gorillas can be visited on treks at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, and Volcanoes National Park. (Ch. 6, 7)

3 Watch the Great Migration cross the Mara River

A dramatic safari highlight during the Great Migration is when wildebeest, zebra, and smaller antelope cross the turbulent Mara River in search of fresh grazing. (Ch. 3, 4)

4

Trek to the roof of Africa on Mt. Kilimanjaro

The round-trip trek to the summit of Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain, takes five to nine days depending on the route; it’s a popular addition to any East African safari. (Ch. 4)

5 Walk on the wild side

You hear, smell, and see the little things rarely experienced from a vehicle on a walking safari. Guides point out plants, trees, insects, birds, and spoor (tracks), and encountering big game on foot is highly exciting.

6 Climb giant sand dunes in the Namib Desert

Considered Earth’s oldest desert, the Namib gives rise to some of the planet’s tallest dunes; the highest is Big Daddy (325 meters [1,066 feet]). Don’t miss scrambling to the top to watch the sunrise. (Ch. 9)

7 Scuba dive or snorkel in the Indian Ocean

The crystal clear Indian Ocean, which flanks the gorgeous white-sand beaches of coastal Kenya and Tanzania, has excellent scuba diving and snorkeling on the fringing coral reefs. (Ch. 3, 4)

8

Drift through the Okavango Delta on a mokoro

There’s no better way to explore Botswana’s magical Okavango Delta than by traditional mokoro (dugout canoe), propelled gently along by a poler standing at the rear. (Ch. 8)

9 Learn from the Maasai, Samburu, and other local guides

Many guides in Kenya, and some in Tanzania, are members of local tribes, who have expert wildlife knowledge and a deep understanding and affinity with the bush. (Ch. 3, 4)

10

Ride among game on a horseback safari

This is a great way to get close to wildlife in a quiet, unobtrusive way, as antelope, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, elephant, and buffalo, simply see horses as other four-legged creatures.

11 Be awed by Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater

Often called Africa’s Eden, the world’s largest intact caldera is a highlight for safari-goers as its open grasslands, sturdy woodlands, and freshwater lakes support immense concentrations of animals. (Ch. 4)

12 Take a photographic safari

Capturing high-quality images is a must for serious photographers, and operators are providing custom-built vehicles with unobstructed, elevated views, swivel chairs, camera mounts, and charging points.

13 Spy wildlife from a swimming pool

Yes, lolling by or even in the pool as wildlife strolls by is possible as many lodges boast well-designed pools that overlook the plains or a waterhole where animals come down to drink.

14

Experience the smoke that thunders of Victoria Falls

This spectacular sight is best seen from the spray-drenched rainforests of Victoria Falls National Park or Zambia’s Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. (Ch. 10)

15 Find the Big Five in Greater Kruger

The vast plains and wooded river valleys of Greater Kruger are best known for relatively easy and thrilling encounters with the magnificent Big Five. (Ch. 5)

16

Follow the herds on a mobile safari

With all the comforts of a lodge—lavish tents, flush toilets, hot showers, delicious food—mobile safaris are a great way to see the Great Migration; it’s also popular in Botswana and Namibia. (Ch 3, 4, 8, 9)

17 Sleep outside in a star-bed

Perched on raised wooden platforms with sweeping views, these open-air bedrooms (complete with mosquito nets) are lit with candles and lanterns at night and beautiful sunrises in the morning.

18 Join an excursion with a conservationist or biologist

A resident biologist can share insights about animal behavior, while conservation safaris offer activities like game counts or tree planting which make your safari experience all the richer.

19

Explore Stone Town’s intriguing alleyways

Historical mosques, imposing cathedrals, and grand 19th-century Arab houses with giant brass-studded wooden doors line the alleys. Now they are trendy restaurants, boutiques, and hotels. (Ch. 4)

20

Spot nocturnal species on a night drive

To view wildlife rarely seen during the day, set out from camp after dinner to explore. Guides (or trackers/spotters) use a powerful spotlight to search for glittering eyes in the bush like lions on the prowl.

22 Relax on a post-safari Kenyan beach escape

Easily reached by air from the safari destinations, the Kenyan coast has a sunny climate, bone-white sands, and turquoise water, which beg for a few days of relaxation. (Ch. 3)

23 Try bird-watching, or twitching, on game drives

While not on most people’s must-see safari list, Africa is fabulous for birding; one can’t help but be fascinated by the diversity of species, sizes, and colors. Guides can assist with identifying them and explaining their behavior.

24

Stargaze clear southern hemisphere night skies

Most safari lodges and camps are far from the pollution and ambient light of cities, which allows for a dizzying array of stars and Southern Hemisphere constellations to appear.

25 Watch cheetah stalk in the Serengeti’s golden grasses

A perfect cheetah habitat, the Serengeti features open plains dotted with kopjes (granite outcrops) and an abundance of prey. Seeing one at full sprint is a memorable safari experience. (Ch. 4)

WHAT’S WHERE

dingbat Kenya. Expect golden lions, red-robed warriors, snowcapped mountains, pristine white beaches, and some of the world’s most famous safari destinations—Masai Mara—and world-class beach destinations like Diani Beach and Lamu.

dingbat Tanzania. Some of Africa’s greatest tourist attractions—the Serengeti, the Great Migration, Olduvai Gorge, Ngorongoro Crater, and Kilimanjaro—are here.

dingbat South Africa. At the very tip of Africa, you’ll find many worlds in one: modern bustling cities, ancient rock art, gorgeous beaches, fabulous game lodges, well-run national parks, mountain ranges, desert, and Winelands. Popular safari destinations include Kruger, its adjoining private reserves, and the KwaZulu-Natal parks.

dingbat Rwanda. Trek mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, visit Akagera National Park, Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, and see Nyungwe National Park, home to Africa’s largest mountain rainforest.

dingbat Uganda. Home to dense forests, snowcapped mountains, the Nile River, and 10 national parks including Bwindi Impenetrable National Park where more than half of the world’s mountain gorillas live.

dingbat Botswana. From vast salt pans to the pristine waterways of the Okavango Delta, expect lots of game, few tourists, and stars brighter than you’ll ever see.

dingbat Namibia. The Namib Desert, the fog-enshrouded Skeleton Coast, the great game park of Etosha, Damaraland’s stark beauty: you’ve never been anywhere like Namibia.

dingbat Victoria Falls. Shared by Zambia and Zimbabwe, Vic Falls is one of the greatest natural wonders of the world. Africa’s adventure center with everything from bungee jumping and white-water rafting to rappelling and jet skiing.

Finding the Big Five

The fauna that can be found on an African safari is as varied and vast as the continent’s landscape. Africa has more large animals than anywhere else in the world and is the only place on earth where vast herds still roam the plains.

Animals You’ll See on an African Safari

BABOON

The most adaptable of the ground-dwelling primates, baboons travel in large groups and live in all manner of habitats as long as they have water and a safe place to sleep. They have huge canine teeth and can be vicious when they feel threatened, so keep your vehicle’s windows closed.

HIPPO

The comical nighttime sounds of this herbivorous animal snorting and chortling will be one of your safari’s most memorable experiences, but remember, this is one of Africa’s most dangerous animals. If you see a hippo yawn, back off, and never get between a hippo and its water as it may feel threatened.

CHEETAH

Reaching speeds of 70 mph, cheetahs are the world’s fastest land animals. Found mainly in open savanna, you’ll usually see one or two males—often brothers—together while females watch the cubs. With characteristic dark spots, these endangered animals generally prey on gazelles and impalas.

SPRINGBOK

A cinnamon-color antelope with a dark brown stripe on its flanks, a white underside, and short, slender horns, these herbivores often engage in a mysterious activity known as pronking, a seemingly sudden spurt of high jumps into the air with its back bowed. They travel in herds that usually include a few territorial males; the young will stay with their mothers for about four months.

GIRAFFE

The biggest ruminant and tallest living animal, giraffes are found in most national parks. Social creatures that live in loose herds, it’s easy to tell males from females—females have bushy tips like paintbrushes. The tops of the male’s horns are bare and shiny from fighting; males fight over females using a necking technique, winding their necks around each other, pushing and shoving.

IMPALA

Similar in appearance to a deer, these ubiquitous antelopes are reddish-brown with white and black markings; they can be found in grasslands and wooded areas, usually near water. A typical herd has one dominant male, although bachelor herds are usually in the vicinity, with hopeful individuals awaiting their turn to oust the ruling male.

AFRICAN WILD DOG

Known as the painted dog or painted wolf because of their uniquely spotted coats, the endangered wild dog is a highly social animal that lives in small packs of about 15. Intelligent and quick, they hunt as a coordinated pack running down their prey, which varies from antelopes to zebras, until exhausted.

NILE CROCODILE

Found in sub-Saharan Africa and the Nile River, this croc averages about 16 feet and 700 pounds and is a favorite of poachers. Mainly fish eaters, they will eat almost anything, including a baby hippo or a human. Fearsome to look at and lightning quick, they’re unusually sensitive with their young.

BUSH BABY

These small nocturnal primates, which make cries similar to that of a human baby, range in size from 2 ounces to 3 pounds. During the day, they stay in tree hollows and nests, but at night you’ll see them leaping and bouncing from tree to tree in pursuit of night-flying insects. Their main predators are some of the larger carnivores, genets, and snakes.

HYENA

There are three species: brown, spotted, and striped. They live in groups called clans and make their homes in dens. They mark their territory with gland secretions or droppings. Cubs are nursed for about 18 months, at which point they go on hunting and scavenging sprees with their mothers. Both strategic hunters and opportunists, hyenas feed on their own kill as well as that of others.

WILDEBEEST

This ubiquitous herbivore has a large head and front end, curved horns, and slender body and rear. Often called the clowns of the veld they toss their heads as they run and kick up their back legs. Calves can run within minutes of being born, keeping up with the herd after two days.

WARTHOG

A member of the pig family, warthogs have a wart-covered (actually protective bumps) flat head that’s disproportionate to their body. They mostly graze, but will eat anything. They sleep and nurse in burrows abandoned by aardvarks, going in tail first and charging out at full speed in case a predator is waiting.

JACKAL

There are three species of this canine: golden, black-backed, and side-striped, all of whose habitat ranges from savannahs and grasslands to mountains. They pair up for life and together, mark their territory with urine and feces. After a gestation period of about 2 months, these omnivores birth and nurse their 4-6 pups in burrows.

MOUNTAIN GORILLA

The global gorilla population is about 1,000, but more than half are found in the Virunga Mountains in Uganda, Rwanda, and DRC. Since they dwell at elevations of up to 13,000 feet, their body hair is thick and long, for warmth. Like humans, females give birth at 9 months, adding to the troop which is led by an older dominant male silverback.

CHIMPANZEE

Dwelling anywhere from tropical rainforests to grasslands in Central and West Africa, an alpha male leads the community. Grooming is an important social activity for bonding while they remove bugs and dirt. Chimps mainly eat fruit and plants but are omnivores and hunt for meat. They sleep in trees for up to 10 hours a night and build their nests from branches.

ELAND

Found in East and southern Africa, the world’s largest antelope weighs up to 2,200 lbs. Good at jumping, elands can scale a 4-foot shrub with ease. Herds are highly nomadic and favor browsing over grazing; they often use their spiral horns to bring higher leaves within reach. Older males are more solitary and sedentary than females.

ZEBRA

Africa has three species: the Burchell’s (or common) zebra, East Africa’s Grevy’s zebra, and the mountain zebra of southern and southwestern Africa. All have striped coats and strong teeth for chewing grass and often travel in large herds. A baby zebra can remember its mother’s stripes. A male zebra can break a lion’s jaw with one kick.

DIK DIK

Extremely shy, these small antelopes are mostly seen darting away in a zigzag pattern on twig-thin legs making a high-pitched sound like zik zik, hence the name. Weighing no more than 13 lbs., adults mate for life; when a partner dies, the other can deliberately hand itself to a predator.

KUDU

The name comes from the Khoikhoi language indigenous to Southern and East Africa where they are largely found. When they sense danger, kudus stay very still and camouflage into the wooded savannah surroundings thanks to their skin color and thin white stripes. Bulls are bigger and have spiral horns that can grow to an impressive 2 meters (6 feet).

PANGOLIN

Despite the scales, pangolins are mammals, with eight species split halfway across Africa and Asia. They live in burrows and are nocturnal—making them notoriously hard to spot on safari—and they have long sticky tongues and claws perfect for eating ants. With a small head and no external ears, when alarmed, they curl into a ball and are easy for poachers to smuggle.

Birds You’ll See on an African Safari

BATELEUR EAGLE

Black with a red back, legs, and beak, and white underneath its wings, this spectacular bird is found throughout sub-Saharan Africa. It can fly up to 322 km (200 miles) at a time in search of prey, which ranges from antelope to snakes and carrion. Mates for life, the same nest is often reused.

LAPPET-FACED VULTURE

The largest, most dominant, and most aggressive vulture, this scavenger feeds mainly on carrion and carcasses. It will also, on occasion, kill other weaker birds or attack the nests of young birds. It has a bald head and is pink in color with a wingspan of up to 8½ feet.

LILAC-BREASTED ROLLER

With a blue-and-lilac-color breast, this stunning bird is found in sub-Saharan Africa’s open woodlands and savannas. Parents are extremely territorial and aggressive when it comes to defending the nest. During mating, the male flies high and then rolls over and over as it descends, making screeching cries.

KORI BUSTARD

One of the world’s heaviest flying birds is found in southern and East Africa. Reaching almost 30 pounds and about 3½ feet in length, the male is much larger than the female but both are gray, have crests, and gray-and-white necks. Although it does fly, the majority of its time is spent on land, where it eats insects, lizards, snakes, and seeds. One male mates with several females, which then raise the young on their own.

PEL’S FISHING OWL

A large, monogamous, ginger-brown owl with no ears, bare legs, and dark eyes, it lives along river banks in South Africa’s Kruger Park, Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and Zimbabwe. One of only three fishing owls in the world, it hunts at night with its sharp talons. They communicate with each other through synchronized hooting at night as they guard their stretch of riverbank.

WATTLED CRANE

The rarest African crane is found in Ethiopia, Zambia, Botswana, Mozambique, and South Africa. A gray-and-white bird, it can reach up to 5 feet tall and, while mating, will nest in pairs along the shallow wetlands of large rivers. They’re omnivorous and sometimes wander onto farmlands where they’re vulnerable to poisoning by farmers.

GREY-CROWNED CRANE

They are so-called for the yellow quiff that looks like a crown on their heads. Uganda’s national bird, it’s found in wetland grasslands in East and Southern Africa. They live in flocks, but during the breeding season in rainy months, monogamous pairs go off to nest and lay eggs and become highly territorial.

OSTRICH

Reaching 300 lbs. and over 2 meters (6½ feet), the world’s heaviest and tallest bird can’t fly but it can run fast and its kick can kill. Found in savannahs and deserts, herds are led by an alpha male, who mates with the alpha female; all other hens lay in her nest, and the pair do the incubation.

GUINEA FOWL

Native to Africa, you’ll spot the helmeted guinea fowl in flocks, walking around looking for insects and seeds, although they can fly short distances to roost on trees. In the wild, they stand out for their grey polka-dotted plumage and small blue head with a red beak. It is increasingly becoming domesticated, reared alongside poultry.

AFRICAN FISH EAGLE

They live near fresh water in tropical rainforests, fynbos, swamps, and grasslands across sub-Saharan Africa. The talons have rough soles and a good grip for holding slippery fish. They live in monogamous pairs and will swoop down to snatch fish out of the water and then fly it back to their perch. Their nests are made with sticks and grow quite large as they get refurbished over time.

Plants and Trees You’ll See on an African Safari

BAOBAB

Found throughout Africa, the baobab is known for storing water in its trunk and can live up to 1,000 years. The hollow trunks are large enough that they’ve been used as a prison and a post office.

AFRICAN MAHOGANY

Originally from West Africa, this majestic tree is found in warm humid climates; it’s also found in the Florida Everglades. It requires significant rainfall in order to thrive and can reach up to 140 feet with a 6-foot trunk diameter. Its much-prized, strong, richly colored wood is used to make furniture and boats.

FIG

Found in southern and East Africa, these gigantic trees grow wherever there’s water. The fruit provides nourishment for a variety of birds, bats, and other animals (who spread the seeds via their droppings), but they’re most noted for their symbiotic relationship with wasps, which pollinate the flowers while reproducing.

FEVER TREE

Found in damp, swampy habitats throughout sub-Saharan Africa, the tree got its name because travelers often contracted malaria where fever trees grew and thus they were wrongly thought to transmit it. Bees are attracted by its clusters of yellow flowers, and birds often nest in its branches as its thorns offer extra protection against predators.

JACKALBERRY

The large, graceful jackalberry, also known as the African ebony, is a riverine tree found all over sub-Saharan Africa. It can grow up to 80 feet tall and 16 feet wide. It bears fragrant white flowers and a fleshy yellow fruit that jackals, monkeys, baboons, and fruit-eating birds love. Its bark and leaves are used in traditional medicine with proven pharmacological benefits.

SAUSAGE TREE

This unique tree, found in southern Africa, bears sausagelike fruit that can grow up to 2 feet long and weigh as much as 15 pounds. It’s also poisonous but can be made into various medicines and alcohol similar to beer. The tree grows to be about 40 feet with fragrant red flowers that bloom at night and are pollinated by bats and insects.

STRELITZIA FLOWER

Also known as Bird of Paradise or the crane flower, the strelitzia is indigenous to South Africa. It grows up to 6½ feet tall with a beautiful fan-shape crown with bright orange and bluish-purple petals that grow perpendicular to the stem, giving it the appearance of a graceful bird.

CAPE FYNBOS

A term given to the collection of plants found in South Africa’s Cape, fynbos includes more than 8,600 plant species including shrubs, proteas, bulbous plants (like gladiolus), and aloe. Table Mountain alone hosts about 1,500 species of plants and 69 protea species (there are 112 worldwide).

MAGIC GUARRI

This round shrub with dark green leaves and white or cream-color flowers grows along floodplains and rivers. Its fleshy, purple fruit can be made into alcohol; the bark is used to dye baskets. The twigs have been used as toothbrushes, while the root can be used as mouthwash. The wood is said to have magical or supernatural powers and is never burned as firewood.

WELWITSCHIA MIRABILIS

With its long, wide leathery leaves creeping over the ground, this somewhat surreal-looking plant is also one of the world’s oldest; it’s estimated to live at least 1,500 years. Found in the Namib Desert, it consists solely of two leaves, a stem base, and roots. The leaves lie on the ground getting tattered and torn, but grow longer and longer each summer.

BEST BETS

Fodor’s writers and editors have chosen our favorites to help you plan.

THE OUT OF AFRICA EXPERIENCE

Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp, Kenya

Finch Hattons, Kenya

Governors’ Il Moran Camp, Kenya

King’s Pool, Botswana

Sabi Sabi Selati Camp, South Africa

Angama Mara, Kenya

TO SEE THE GREAT MIGRATION

Grumeti River Camp, Tanzania

Klein’s Camp, Tanzania

Little Governors’ Camp, Kenya

Mara Serena Safari Lodge, Kenya

Sayari Camp, Tanzania

Serengeti Under Canvas, Tanzania

DROP-DEAD LUXURY

Bisate Lodge, Rwanda

MalaMala Rattray’s Camp, South Africa

Mombo Camp, Botswana

Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Tanzania

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Kenya

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge, Uganda

Desert Rhino Camp, Namibia

Giraffe Manor, Kenya

Greystoke Mahale, Tanzania

Varty Camp, South Africa

Virunga Loge, Rwanda

TO GET AWAY FROM THE CROWDS

Duba Plains, Botswana

Jack’s Camp, Botswana

Mnemba Island Lodge, Tanzania

Tswalu Kalahari, South Africa

Ruzizi Tented Lodge, Rwanda

Sand Rivers Selous, Tanzania

!Xaus Lodge, South Africa

INTERACT WITH THE LOCALS

Deception Valley Lodge, Botswana

Forest Lodge, Phinda, South Africa

Il Ngwesi Eco Lodge, Kenya

Lake Manyara Serena Lodge, Tanzania

Hemingways Ol Seki Mara, Kenya

TO GO TO THE BEACH

Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, Rwanda

The Majlis, Kenya

Mnemba Lodge, Tanzania

Peponi Hotel, Kenya

Protea Hotel by Marriott Pelican Bay, Namibia

Zuri Zanzibar, Tanzania

TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE

Footsteps, Botswana

Lewa Wilderness, Kenya

Okonjima Luxury Bush Camp, Namibia

Porini Rhino Camp, Kenya

Roho ya Selous, Tanzania

NATURAL WONDERS

Explosion Crater Drive, Uganda

Great Migration, Kenya and Tanzania

Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

Namib-Naukluft Park, Namibia

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia

Virunga Mountains, Uganda and Rwanda

HOT AIR BALLOON RIDES

Masai Mara, Kenya

Serengeti, Tanzania

Namib Desert, Namibia.

GORILLA TREKS

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda

Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

TAKE A MOBILE SAFARI

Kenya

Tanzania

Botswana

Namibia

Safari with Kids

Most safari operators and private game reserves don’t accept children under a certain age, usually under eight, but sometimes under 12. This age limit is largely for safety reasons, especially in unfenced camps where animals could be in close proximity to rooms and tents; the same goes for drives in open safari vehicles. And even though you might think your six- or seven-year-old adores all sorts of animals and bugs, you’d be surprised how overwhelmed kids can become out of the comfort of their home backyard by the size and multitude of African insects and wildlife.

Take into account, also, that when you’re following a strange schedule (with jet lag) and getting in and out of small planes, safari vehicles and the like, there often is no time to deal with recalcitrant children—and fussing will, you can be guaranteed, annoy the other people in your plane or lodge, who have spent a great deal of money for what may be a once-in-a-lifetime safari trip. Finally, while smaller children may be in awe of the first elephant they see, a few hours of driving around a hot dusty reserve may result in them getting bored and restless if there’s not much animal action.

One option for families with teenagers is to book one of the larger mid-range lodges which are mostly fenced and perhaps have a swimming pool and buffet meals that will suit everyone. Or if you can afford it, book a private safari where no other people are involved and you dictate the schedule and even the menu for meals. Many private lodges will rent you the entire property for the length of your stay; this is often the only way these camps allow children under age eight on safari. Be advised that, even if you’re renting the whole camp, babies and toddlers still aren’t allowed out on game-viewing trips.

&Beyond has children’s programs at several of its upscale camps throughout southern and East Africa. While you follow your own program, your kids pursue their own wilderness activities, and you all meet up later for meals and other activities. Wilderness Safaris, which also has locations throughout southern and East Africa, offers the bush buddy program at most of its camps where someone is on hand to look after the kids (either with you or in camp).

Malaria and Kids

It’s best not to visit malarial areas with children under age 10. Young kidneys are especially vulnerable to both the effects of malaria and the side effects of malaria prophylactics, and you could be a long way from medical care if there are complications.

Best Lodges for Families with Kids

Here are a few places in each country that are great options for families traveling with children.

KENYA

dingbat Angama Mara, Masai Mara

dingbat Sanctuary Olonana, Masai Mara

dingbat Lewa Wilderness or Lewa Safari Camp, Laikipia Plateau

TANZANIA

dingbat Isoitok Camp, Lake Manyara National Park

dingbat Gibbs Farm, Ngorongoro Conservation Area

dingbat Klein’s Camp, Serengeti National Park

dingbat Selous Impala Camp, Nyerere National Park

SOUTH AFRICA

dingbat Founders Camp or Varty Camp, Londolozi Private Game Reserve

dingbat Mountain Lodge, Phinda Private Game Reserve

dingbat Melton Manor or Uplands Homestead, Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

RWANDA

dingbat Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes National Park

dingbat Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel, Volcanoes National Park

dingbat Nyungwe Top View Hill Hotel, Nyungwe National Park

UGANDA

dingbat Mihingo Lodge, Lake Mburo National Park

dingbat Turaco Treetops Lodge, Kibale National Park

dingbat Murchison River Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park

BOTSWANA

dingbat Footsteps, Okavango Delta

dingbat Kwando Lagoon or Lebala Camps, Kwando Reserve

dingbat Tuludi, Okavango Delta

dingbat Chitabe Lediba, Okavango Delta

NAMIBIA

dingbat Kulala Desert Lodge, Namib-Naukluft Park

dingbat Etosha Village, Namib-Naukluft Park

dingbat Vingerklip Lodge, Damaraland

dingbat Swakopmund Hotel and Entertainment Centre, Swakopmund

dingbat Protea Hotel by Marriott Pelican Bay, Walvis Bay

VICTORIA FALLS

dingbat Toka Leya Camp, Livingstone, Zambia

dingbat Tongabezi Lodge, Livingstone, Zambia

dingbat Elephant Camp, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

dingbat Stanley and Livingstone, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

What to Read and Watch

BORN WILD

Tony Fitzjohn’s memoir is much more than a story about one man’s addiction to adventure. It tells the tale of his 20 years with George Adamson of Born Free fame, and his lifelong fight to protect African wildlife is chronicled alongside introspections about global citizenship, all in the wild man’s signature storytelling style.

RUNNING WITH THE KENYANS

Adharanand Finn’s story of the elite training camps of Kenya will inspire even the most devout non-runner. If you’re planning ahead for your big trip, this look at Kenyan culture through the lens of the experience of running will give you a whole new way to explore the area.

IN THE HOUSE OF THE INTERPRETER

Ngugi Wa Thiong’o is a prolific Kenyan writer and political activist. His powerful two-part memoir covers a period in the 1950s when he was at a prestigious British boarding school when the Mau Mau Uprising for Independence erupted. But he eventually found himself jailed in his own subsequent fight against the colonial powers.

OUT OF AFRICA

In 1914 Danish baroness Karen Blixen went to Kenya to establish a coffee plantation at the foot of the Ngong Hills. This classic book tells her evocative stories of friendships, experiences with wildlife and her love affair with Denys Finch-Hatton. Sydney Pollock made the movie in 1985 with Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.

GORILLAS IN THE MIST

The story of Dian Fossey, an American conservationist who studied mountain gorillas in Rwanda from 1966 to her untimely murder by poachers in 1985. It chronicles both her struggles living in a remote camp and the joy of her relationships with the gorillas. Sigourney Weaver starred in the movie released in 1988.

MY LIFE WITH CHIMPANZEES

Jane Goodall is considered the world’s expert on chimpanzees. She first went to Gombe Stream National park in 1960 where she made important observations of social and family behavior that have been instrumental in understanding the species. Since then she has been a leading and award-winning conservationist, environmentalist, and humanitarian.

BORN FREE

Published in 1960, this now-classic book is about Austrian-born Joy Adamson and her astonishing relationship with Elsa the orphaned lion cub in Kenya. With husband George, they successfully released Elsa into the wild where she bore cubs—the first time a lion had been fully rehabilitated. The movie premiered in 1966.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON’T RUN: THE TRUE TALES OF A BOTSWANA SAFARI GUIDE

Peter Allison’s hilarious anecdotes as a top safari guide in the Okavango Delta is as much about his encounters with wildlife as it is with dealing with the ridiculous whims of wealthy guests. He fights the impulse not to run away from them as he would do a fierce pride of lions.

THE NO. 1 LADIES’ DETECTIVE AGENCY

Following no-nonsense but wise detective Mma Precious Ramotswe as she solves crimes in Botswana, these charming novels are funny and entertaining and make great reading while on safari. Alexander McCall Smith has now penned a staggering 22 in the series, and the stories have also been made into TV and radio productions.

SAFARI, SO GOOD: ALL ABOUT AFRICAN WILDLIFE

Get young children (4-8 years) excited about the idea of going on safari with this delightful kids’ book featuring Cat (from Cat in Hat fame) taking his friends Sally and Nick to Africa to meet and learn about the animals. The book is part of the Learning Library series inspired by Dr. Seuss’s original 1957 Cat in the Hat.

THE SCRAMBLE FOR AFRICA

First published in 1990, this weighty tome by Thomas Pakenham discusses the turbulent colonial conquest of Africa from 1876 to 1912. This gripping read documents the often ruthless arrogance of the European nations in their quest for dominance of the Africans.

THE ELEPHANT WHISPERER: MY LIFE WITH THE HERD IN THE AFRICAN WILD

In 1999 the late South African conservationist Lawrence Anthony took on six destructive and traumatized ‘rogue’ elephants. Remarkably he managed to calm them down by simply talking to them gently until they recognized his voice and body language, and the then-placid elephants were re-released on his private reserve in KwaZulu-Natal.

AFRICA

If one documentary says come to Africa then this it. Sir David Attenborough narrates this epic six-episode series that took four years to film and was first aired on the BBC and Discovery Channel in 2013. It features spectacular footage of the wildlife and landscapes across the continent including the popular safari destinations.

Chapter 2: PLANNING A SAFARI

Know Before You Go

Do you need a visa to visit? What immunizations are required? Can you drink water from the tap? How about money? What should I wear? We’ve got answers and a few tips to help you make the most of your African Safari.

WHEN SHOULD I START PLANNING?

Most people start planning a safari six to nine months in advance, but it’s never too soon to start. In fact, planning your trip 12 months in advance isn’t unreasonable, especially if you want to travel during peak season—November through February in South Africa, July through October elsewhere—and have your heart set on a particular lodge.

WHERE CAN I SEE THE BIG FIVE?

If you’re keen to see big game, particularly the Big Five, then your best bets for success will be in East Africa and South Africa. The Serengeti National Park in Tanzania is known for its plentiful game and is the stomping ground for approximately 2 million wildebeest, 250,000 zebras, and 500,000 antelopes that race more than 1,931 km (1,200 miles) May–July to find enough water and grass to survive during the Great Migration. The Masai Mara National Reserve in neighboring Kenya is probably best known for its large population of big cats, as well as hippos and the rare black rhino and spotted hyena; the Great Migration starts to arrive here in mid-July. In South Africa, Kruger National Park and the private Sabi Sand Game Reserve just outside Kruger are ideal places to observe the Big Five as well as leopards and hundreds of other species. You’ll see the African elephant everywhere in the park, with lions more abundant in the central and eastern regions; rhino and buffalo make their home in the woods of southwest Kruger.

HOW DO I START PLANNING A SAFARI?

Deciding where you want to go and choosing the right safari operator are the most important things you need to do. Start planning for your safari the way you would any trip. Read travel books about the areas that most interest you. Talk to people who have been on a similar trip; word-of-mouth advice can be invaluable. Surf the ‘net. Get inspired. Line up your priorities. And find someone you trust to help plan your trip.

BATHROOM BREAKS

On your game drive you’ll very likely be pointed to a nearby bush (which the ranger checks out before you use it). Tissues and toilet paper are usually available in the vehicle (but you may want to make sure). Sometimes there might be a toilet—well, actually, it’ll very likely be a hole in the ground below a toilet seat—called long-drop toilets. Either way, bring the paper back with you—don’t bury it. If you have an emergency, ask your ranger to stop the vehicle and he or she will scout a suitable spot.

PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES

Having a disability doesn’t mean you can’t go on safari. It’s important, however, to plan carefully to ensure that your needs can be adequately met. South African lodges, especially the high-end private ones, are the easiest to navigate and have the fewest steps. Keep in mind that all-terrain 4x4 vehicles don’t have seat belts, so you need enough muscle control to keep yourself upright while the vehicle bumps along the unpaved roads. Getting in and out of these elevated vehicles can also be challenging. MalaMala Game Reserve in South Africa is completely accessible and even has specially equipped four-wheel-drive safari vehicles with harness seat belts. Many of Kruger’s camps have special accommodations. There are a number of tour operators offering wheelchair-accessible safaris, such as Endeavour Safaris (www.endeavour-safaris.com).

NATURE IS NEITHER KIND NOR SENTIMENTAL

Don’t be tempted to interfere with natural processes. The animals are going about the business of survival in a harsh environment, and you can unwittingly make this business more difficult. Don’t get too close to the animals and don’t try to help them cross some perceived obstacle; you have no idea what it’s really trying to do or where it wants to go. If you’re intrusive, you could drive animals away from feeding and, even worse, from drinking at waterholes, where they’re very skittish and vulnerable to predators. That time at the waterhole may be their only opportunity to drink that day.

NEVER FEED WILD CREATURES

Not a cute monkey, not an inquisitive baboon, not a baby tree squirrel, or a young bird out of its nest. In some camps and lodges, however, animals have gotten used to being fed or steal food. The most common animals in this category are baboons and monkeys; in some places they sneak into huts, tents, and even occupied vehicles to snatch food. If you see primates around, keep all food out of sight, and keep your windows rolled up. (If a baboon manages to get into your vehicle, he will trash the interior as he searches for food and use the vehicle as a toilet.)

NEVER TRY TO POSE WITH AN ANIMAL

This is probably the biggest cause of death and injury on safaris, when visitors don’t listen to or believe the warnings from their rangers or posted notices in public parks. Regardless of how cute or harmless they may look, these animals aren’t tame. An herbivore hippo, giraffe, or ostrich can kill you just as easily as a lion, elephant, or buffalo can.

DO I TIP?

Yes, but the amount you tip depends on your budget and what you’re comfortable with. When in doubt, it’s always better to tip too much than too little; it’s not unusual for a member of staff to be supporting an entire extended family on one salary and they are grateful for any help. Never tip children as it could discourage them from attending school if tourists are seen as a lucrative form of income. Hand your tip (preferably in a sealed envelope; many lodges provide them) directly to a member of staff or hand to management to distribute. However, most camps and lodges have gratuity boxes for general staff tips which are also distributed to the behind scene staff such as kitchen and laundry.

For a ranger/guide, plan about US$15-20 per person, per day, which should be handed to them directly. For the general staff, plan per day roughly $10-20 into the general tip box. In both cases families and larger groups will tip less, roughly US$60 for a family of four to the guide, and US$50 to the staff. Expect also to tip $5 per trip for a vehicle transfer (i.e. from the airport/airstrip to your hotel/lodge). Note that some safari operators, such as Micato, include tips in their price, so you don’t have to worry about carrying around the correct denominations.

MALARIA CARE AND VACCINES

It’s extremely important to take malaria prophylactics, but not all malaria medications are the same. Chloroquine is not an effective antimalarial drug in sub-Saharan Africa, as the mosquitoes have developed resistance, and the CDC recommends that you do not use halofantrine. The CDC’s website has a comprehensive list of the different malaria medications available, and which are recommended for each country.

You must be up-to-date with all of your routine shots such as the measles/mumps/rubella vaccine, and diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus vaccine. If you’re traveling to northern Kenya from December through June, don’t be surprised if your doctor advises you to get inoculated against meningitis, as this part of the continent tends to see outbreaks during this time. As for yellow fever, it isn’t inherent in any of the countries discussed in this book, but some countries (like Kenya) will require you to present a valid inoculation certificate if you traveled to a region infected with yellow fever before arrival.

Getting Here and Around

d Air

Although there are few direct flights to Africa from the U.S., flying to the African gateway cities is fairly straightforward via Europe or the Middle East. Once there, traveling by plane is the best and most viable means of transportation to most safari destinations and saves long, arduous journeys by road.

For airline contact information and specific information for each country, see Air, in the Getting Here and Around section of each chapter.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

Comparison flight booking websites such as Kayak.com, Skyscanner.net, and eBookers.com can help you search for the best fares that meet your requirements. The best choice of flights for American travelers is by flying through Europe. Then book a flight to a regional hub like Nairobi or Johannesburg, and catch a connecting flight to your destination.

Some of Kenya’s airlines like Kenya Airways (wwww.kenya-airways.com) and Precision Air (wwww.precisionairtz.com) fly from Nairobi to destinations in Tanzania. South Africa’s domestic airlines like Airlink (wwww.flyairlink.com) fly from South Africa to Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

Another alternative is flying to the African cities via the Middle East—Dubai with Emirates or Doha with Qatar. You’ll add extra time to your flight, but you could save big. Always book at least two months in advance, especially during the high season.

SAFARI FLIGHTS

From the gateway cities, scheduled and charter flights are a common mode of transportation when getting to safari lodges and remote destinations throughout southern and East Africa. A number of airlines serve the lodge airstrips and in some cases, like regions in the East African parks and Botswana’s Okavango Delta, flying is the only option to get there. The small aircraft are well maintained and are almost always booked by your lodge or travel agent.

Scheduled flights are available with a number of airlines and seats are booked on an individual basis. They often operate on circuits and make more than one landing to drop off clients at different accommodations. Charter or on-demand flights, those made at times other than those scheduled, can be expensive for independent travelers, as they require minimum passenger loads. If it’s just two passengers, you’ll be charged for the vacant seats, although they may represent good value if a group is taking all the seats.

The aircraft you get depends on the number of passengers flying and can vary from a six-seat Cessna flown by bush pilots to a more spacious commuter plane seating 10-14 people. The planes have no air-conditioning and in summer can be very hot, especially in the afternoon. Bring a bottle of water with you. And go to the bathroom before flying; there are no restrooms on these planes. Most flights are short—approximately 30 minutes or so—but some can be up to an hour. Take medication if you are prone to motion sickness as flights can be bumpy and landing strips are often no more than baked earth. Those with a severe fear of small planes might want to consider road travel instead.

For information regarding airlines in each country, see the Air section in each country chapter.

LUGGAGE LIMITS

Due to the limited space and size of the aircraft, carriers observe strict luggage regulations: luggage must be soft-sided, preferably with no wheels, and usually must weigh no more than 15 kg (33 lbs); weight allowances may vary by company, so be sure to ask what the limits are before packing. Excess luggage can usually be stored with the operator or a hotel until your return. Don’t just gloss over this: airlines with small planes take weight very seriously, and some will charge you for an extra ticket if you insist on bringing excess baggage.

k Car

Self-drive tours are not recommended for first-time safari-goers. We repeat: Self-drive tours are not recommended for first-time safari-goers. With that said, if you are entertaining the thought, know that a 4WD vehicle is recommended. High clearance is a helpful advantage in gaining elevation over tall grass (especially after the rains in summer) and better spotting of all those animals.

lWherever you go, don’t get out of your vehicle except at certain well-marked picnic sites or view sites, unless you want to make an international headline.

INTERNATIONAL DRIVER’S LICENSE

If you’re taking a self-driving safari or renting a car in countries other than South Africa and Namibia, you’ll need an international driver’s license. These licenses are valid for one year and are issued at any American Automobile Association (AAA) office in the United States; you must have a current U.S. driver’s license. You need to bring two passport-type photographs with you for the license. A valid U.S. driver’s license is acceptable in South Africa and Namibia.

RENTAL CARS

If you decide to travel on your own, it will be necessary to buy special insurance, especially if you plan to cross the border into neighboring countries. Be sure to find out exactly what is required and covered in terms of CDW and TDW (collision damage waiver and theft-damage waiver).

i Game Drives

In most regions, the best time to find game is in the early morning and early evening, when the animals are most active, although old Africa hands will tell you that you can come across good game at any time of day. Stick to the philosophy you never know what’s around the next corner, and keep your eyes and ears wide open all the time. If your lodge or camp offers guided night drives on open vehicles with spotlights—go for it. You’ll rarely be disappointed, seeing not only big game but also a lot of fascinating little critters that surface only at night. Book your night drive in advance or as soon as you get to camp.

Arm yourself with specialized books on mammals and birds rather than a more general one that tries to cover too much. Airports, lodges, and camp shops stock a good range, but try to bring one with you and do a bit of boning up in advance. Any bird guide by Ken Newman (Struik Publishers) and the Sasol Guide to Birds are recommended.

Many national parks have reception areas with charts that show the most recent sightings of wildlife in the area. To be sure you see everything you want to, stop at the nearest reception and ask about a spotting chart, or just chat with the other drivers, guides, and tourists you may encounter there, who can tell you what they’ve seen and where.

RANGERS AND TRACKERS

Game rangers are referred to as guides throughout Africa and have vast experience with and knowledge of the bush and the animals that inhabit it. Guides often work in conjunction with trackers, who spot animals, and advise the guides where to go. Often a tracker will be busy searching out animal tracks, spoor, and other clues to nearby wildlife while the guide drives (or there will be an additional driver) and discusses the animals and their environment. Guides often communicate with each other via radio when there’s been a good sighting.

The quality of your bush experience depends heavily on your guide and tracker; hence why it advisable to tip. A guide wears many hats while on safari: he or she is there to entertain you, protect you, and put you as close to the wilderness as possible while serving as bush mechanic, first-aid specialist, and host. They will often eat meals with you, will explain animal habits and behavior while out in the bush, and, if you’re on foot, will keep you alive in the presence of an excitable elephant, buffalo, hippo, or lion. This is no small feat, and each guide has their particular strengths. Because of the intensity of the safari experience, with its exposure to potentially dangerous animals and tricky situations, your relationship with your guide is one of trust, friendliness, and respect.

INTERACTING WITH YOUR GUIDE

Acknowledge that your guide is a professional and an expert in the field, and defer to his or her knowledge. Instead of trying to show how much you know, follow the example of the hunter, which is to walk quietly and take notice of all the little signs around you. Save social chatter with the guide for when you’re back at camp, not out on a game drive. Guides appreciate questions, which give them an idea of your range of knowledge and of how much detail to include in their animal descriptions. However, if you like to ask a lot of questions, save some for later, especially as several other people are likely to be in the safari vehicle with you. Carry a pocket notebook on game drives and jot down questions as they occur; you can then bring them up at dinner or around the campfire, when your guide has more time to talk and everyone can participate in the discussion.

Don’t let your guide provide only a list of an animal’s attributes. Politely ask questions and show you’d like to know more. Even the best guides may experience bush burnout by the end of a busy safari season with demanding clients, but any guide worthy of the title always goes out of his or her way to give you the best possible experience. If you suspect yours has a case of burnout, or just laziness, you have a right to ask for certain things. There’s never any harm in asking, and you can’t expect your guide to read your mind about what you like. If, for example, you have a preference for birds, insects, or whatever, ask your guide to spend time on these subjects. Given that many safari-goers concentrate on only ticking off the Big Five, you may be surprised by how happy they are to oblige.

BUSH WALKS

Guided bush walks vary, but usually a maximum of eight guests walk in single file with the armed guide up front and the tracker at the back. A bush walk is a more intimate experience than a drive and you’re up close with the bush. Your guide will brief you thoroughly about where and how to walk, emergency procedures, and the like. If you’re in a national park, you’ll most likely have to pay an additional fee to have an armed park ranger escort you on your walk.

VEHICLES ON GAME DRIVES

Your safari transportation is determined by your destination and could range from custom-made game-viewing vehicles (full-service safari) to a combi or minivan (basic safari or self-drive). There shouldn’t be more than six people per vehicle. To make sure you experience every view, suggest to your guide that visitors rotate seats for each drive.

In closed vehicles, which are used by private touring companies operating in Kruger National Park, sit as close to the driver-guide as possible so you can get in and out of the vehicle more easily and get the best views.

OPEN-SIDED LAND ROVERS

This is the most common game-viewing vehicle, especially in South Africa, Tanzania, and Botswana, and is usually a Land Rover or a Land Cruiser. Each vehicle seats six to eight people. Vehicles that have raised, stepped seating—meaning the seats in back are higher than the ones in front—are used for game drives. There are usually three rows of seats after the driver’s row; the norm at a luxury lodge is to have two people per row. The more expensive the camp, the fewer people in the vehicle. Sit beside the guide/driver if you’re a bit unsteady, because you won’t have to climb up into the rear. In the front row you’ll have the clearest conversations with the guide, but farther back you’ll have a clearer, elevated view over the front of the car. The back seats tend to be bumpy, but you get great views.

POP TOPS

Used mainly in Kenya, because of dirt, dust, and rain (and cheetahs, who like to jump on the roof or hood of the vehicle!), these hard-topped minivans pop up so you can stand up, get a better view, and take photos in every direction. If you’re claustrophobic or very tall, this might not be the vehicle for you, but there are outfitters that have larger vehicles that can stretch. If it gets really hot outside, you’ll be happy to close up and turn on the air-conditioning. Make sure water and sodas are available.

MINIVANS

It’s unlikely that you’ll use one of these unless you’re on a very cheap safari or a self-drive—they are, however, perfect for the Namib Desert. The advantage is that they sit high off the ground and provide much better views; some outfitters offer vehicles that can expand. If you’re self-driving, make sure you get a van with air-conditioning and power steering. The farther north you go, check out your prospective vehicle’s year and make sure it’s as recent as possible.

WATERCRAFT

If your lodge is on or near a river, expect to go game viewing in a boat. In the south, options range from the big sunset safari boats with bars and bathrooms on the Zambezi and Chobe rivers to a six- or eight-seater along the Okavango and smaller rivers, where your amenities include a cool box of drinks and snacks but no toilet. One of the highlights of your stay in the Okavango Delta will be gliding in a mokoro (a canoe) poled by an expert local waterman through papyrus-fringed channels. In the north, there are a number of options in Uganda including the Nile in Murchison Falls National Park and at Jinja, and the Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth National Park, which has one of Africa’s largest concentrations of hippos and crocs.

Essentials

Your safari will be one of the most memorable trips you’ll ever take, and it’s essential that your African experience matches the one you’ve always imagined. Nothing should be left to chance, and that includes where you’ll stay and how you’ll get around.

The whos, whats, and hows still need to come into focus. If you have questions like, Where’s the best place to sit in a game-drive vehicle? Can you get near a honey badger? Where do you go to the bathroom in the bush?, then read on.

By the way, bush is a term used to describe the natural setting of your safari—be it in forests, plains, or on riverbanks. The expression going to the bush means going away from urban areas and into the wilderness.

% Communications

It’s estimated that about half the population in Africa has a cell phone, and areas with 3G or 4G reception are widespread and can include remote areas (5G is available in parts of South Africa and Kenya, too). Generally the services are excellent, but don’t count on it in remote camps and lodges. However if you urgently need to get in touch with home, all camps have a radio or satellite phone.

lLeave your contact details with folks back home so they can call you if there’s an emergency.

INTERNET

Most lodges and camps have Wi-Fi, although the service can be erratic and slow. Availability and speed varies widely by location and camp; South African lodges have pretty good capability but elsewhere it can be poor, especially in remote areas of Tanzania, Botswana, and Namibia. While there will be Wi-Fi in public areas, don’t always expect connectivity in your room or tent.

Telephone Country Codes

dingbat United States: 1

dingbat Botswana: 267

dingbat Kenya: 254

dingbat Namibia: 264

dingbat Rwanda: 250

dingbat South Africa: 27

dingbat Tanzania: 255

dingbat Uganda: 256

dingbat Zambia: 260

dingbat Zimbabwe: 263

Note: When dialing from abroad, drop the initial 0 from local area codes.

PHONES

Mobile phones work in almost all lodges and camps, although service can be patchy in remote areas. In the smaller camps, plan to charge your phone at a communal charging station in the lounge or dining area, and perhaps at certain times if the establishment is relying on a generator for power. When you don’t need it, turn off your phone or switch to ‘airplane mode’ to save battery power. Additionally, temporarily turn off apps and Bluetooth as both can drain your battery.

If you do not want to put your phone on (potentially expensive) international roaming, you can also buy a cheap local SIM card, but remember that any phone that you take abroad must be unlocked by your company in order for it to accept a different SIM card.

If you’re on a reliable high-speed connection, calling on Skype or WhatsApp generally works well from Africa. However Wi-Fi bandwidth at lodges and camps may not allow calls. If you can, text, as a text message costs a fraction of the cost of making an actual call. This is a handy option for meeting up with friends or keeping in touch with home, but for making