Eastern Encounters
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About this ebook
The author first visited Estonia to speak at a conference in Tallinn on the subject of conservative values in contemporary society. At the time, members of parliament from the United Kingdom viewed Estonia as an independent state recently liberated from the Soviet Union.
Underneath the country’s façade, however, the author discovered a seething disharmony. Over the years, he’s begun to understand the vital implications of that realization.
From 2002 to 2013, the author spent most of his time in Tallinn with regular monthly visits to London. As the digital age was dawning, he took advantage of being able to conduct his business wherever he was based.
Even while traveling, his activities as founder and chairman of Introcom International continued to flourish. He also wrote three books, which would have been impossible while living in London.
Join the author as he celebrates the peace and tranquility of his life abroad while highlighting the numerous people who made his encounters so memorable.
Michael Wynne-Parker
Michael Wynne-Parker is Chairman of the Guild of Travel and Tourism (UK) and an adviser to several public and private companies and organizations with an emphasis on the Middle East where he has had long and extensive experience. He is also a lecturer and writer on historical, Slavonic, biographical and philosophical themes.
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Eastern Encounters - Michael Wynne-Parker
© 2022 Michael Wynne-Parker. All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means without the written permission of the author.
Published by AuthorHouse 08/24/2022
ISBN: 978-1-7283-7466-6 (sc)
ISBN: 978-1-7283-7467-3 (hc)
ISBN: 978-1-7283-7465-9 (e)
Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Getty Images are models,
and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.
Certain stock imagery © Getty Images.
Because of the dynamic nature of the Internet, any web addresses or links contained in this book may have changed since publication and may no longer be valid. The views expressed in this work are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, and the publisher hereby disclaims any responsibility for them.
CONTENTS
Acknowledgements
Preface
Introduction
1. Early Days
2. Tajikistan
Dushanbe
Probing the Depths
Trajic Air
3. Russian Enterprise, Part 1
Moscow/DSL Alpha
4. Russian Culture, Part 1
Moscow
Rostov-on-Don
5. Ukraine
Russians and Ukrainians in London
Kiev
Crimea
6. Estonia
The Two Estonias
The Old Town
Fire
Magical Manors
Pühtitsa
Majesty
Fragile Union
7. Russian Enterprise, Part 2
Russian Railways
The North Caucasus
8. Russian Culture, Part 2
SAMBO
Imperial Orthodox Palestine Society
Russkiy Mir Foundation
M.ART Foundation
Ludvig Nobel Prize
Orthodox Russia
9. Afterthought
Other books by Michael Wynne-Parker
Bridge Over Troubled Water 1989
The Mandana Poems 1998
Reflections in Middle Years 2005
Wilson Lutara-A Man of Africa 2007
We Shall Fly 2009
If My Table Could Talk 2011
For Nicole Rose Fitzgerald
HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE
969-978 Prince Vladimir Svyatoslavich of Novgorod
Vladimir The Great,First sole Ruler of The Rus.
978 The conquest of Kiev which becomes
the first capital of The Rus
988 Russia becomes Christian-
The Baptism of The Rus.
1108 City of Vladimir becomes the capital
1147-aproximately Moscow becomes the capital
1712 St.Petersburgh becomes the
capital of The Russian Empire.
1918 Moscow becomes the capital of The
Union of Soviet Socialist Republics-USSR
1991 Moscow is capital of The Russian Federation.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I am grateful to all my friends within Russia, Ukraine, Estonia, and beyond who have inspired and contributed to this book. Friendship encircles the globe, and trust and loyalty are its essence.
Many friends and acquaintances have encouraged me to write as I speak, and in story form. You know who you are!
Special thanks to Emily Field, who has diligently deciphered my handwriting to produce the manuscript, and to my publisher for guiding the project through to completion.
PREFACE
PRINCESS GYTHA
The remarkable story of a slaughtered king’s daughter who marries an early Kievan prince, becomes mother of twelve, and ancestor of the British monarchy!
__________________________________________
Long ago, the daughter of the last English king suddenly left for Denmark. Her name was Princess Gytha, and her father, King Harold, whether by intelligence, intuition, or simply logic, knew he would die in the forthcoming Battle of Hastings. The year was 1066—in my day, a year remembered by every schoolboy—and the Normans were about to invade and conquer the ancient English kingdom.
Sure enough, the French won a decisive victory. King Harold was slain, and the Godwinson dynasty ended.
However, Princess Gytha, surely sad and homesick, was safely in friendly Denmark and soon to embark on the journey of a lifetime—to Russia.
Russia, in those days, was known as the land of the Rus, and very little was known about it in the West. Over centuries, the huge country has slowly evolved, uniting a variety of ethnic groups from East and West, from Finland to Mongolia, and had just a few years before Gytha arrived embraced Christianity.
It happened like this. During the decline of the ancient Rus kingdom, the principality of Kiev emerged, known as the Kievan Rus. The first grand prince (or king) was Vladimir the Great. Aware of the discord caused by a multiplicity of religious factions, he sent emissaries abroad, commanding them to find the true religion if such existed. Some of them ended up in Constantinople, where they experienced the Orthodox liturgy in all its grandeur and beauty. They were convinced that this was indeed the true religion.
Returning to Prince Vladimir, they convinced him that what he had sought had been found, and Vladimir requested representatives of the new religion to visit Kiev. They so much inspired him that he was baptised, followed by the baptism of the majority of the people. This is known as the baptism of the Rus. The year is 988.
No one knows why Princess Gytha travelled to Russia, and there is little known about the circumstances in which she was introduced to Grand Prince Vladimir’s grandson, also Vladimir, known as Vladimir Monomach. It is probable that as the daughter of the recent king of England, she would meet the royal family of any country she visited.
Amazingly, soon after her arrival, Gytha and Vladimir married in the Cathedral of Our Saviour in Chernigov in 1074, just eight years after her father’s death at the Battle of Hastings.
Little is known about Princess Gytha’s life in Russia except that it was long, she died in 1107, and that she had twelve children! The eldest son, Mstislav the Great, became the last ruler of the united Kievan Rus. However, according to Russian historian Vladimir Medinsky, Gytha was a significant influence on her husband’s public relations: Knyaz’s English wife wasn’t wasted
(Medinsky quotes M. P. A. Kekseev’s comparative analysis between Monomakh’s writings and Alfred the Great’s). Monomakh himself referred to her in his own book of instructions for his sons: Love your wives, but grant them no power over you.
Gytha outlived her husband, and in the Patericon of St Pantaleon Cloister in Cologne it is recorded that Gytha the Queen died as a nun.
Her legacy certainly lived on. Through her son Mstislav the Great, she is an ancestor of King Edward III of England, and hence of all subsequent English and British monarchs!
She has the distinction of being a direct ancestor of St Alexander Nevsky, one of the greatest heroes of Russian history. More of him in a later chapter.
Of the many descendants of Gytha, I was fortunate to meet the Obolenskys. Firstly Serge, who demonstrated the dagger dance on the table of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York, and lately, Selene Obolensky, the famous map expert in London. Both referred to their unbroken descent from Monomakh and Gytha.
Certainly King Harold would have been extremely proud of his daughter. She had clearly inherited his bravery and courage.
This amazing story sets the scene for the developing English-Russian cultural ties which have bound our two countries for a thousand years. Whilst politics divides, culture unites!
INTRODUCTION
Eleven years have passed since I last recorded the whispers of conversation heard around my table. Life has accelerated at a rapid pace leaving little time for writing recollections. However, suddenly, today Saturday 17th August 2019, I feel compelled to take up my pen and write.
After the exhilarating encounters with Vera Protosova referred to in the final chapter of ‘If my Table Could Talk’¹, I made a momentous decision. I was to leave London and settle for the next twelve years in Tallinn.
Though it has been said that those who ‘tire of London tire of life’², after twelve years of living there, without a country retreat of my own, I fled!
The final decision was made on a packed underground train, during rush hour, when a poor child vomited against my back, saturating my shirt and trousers. I rushed home, threw off the soiled clothes, and took a long cleansing shower.
As often in life a ‘sign’ had been given and I realised that packed trains, chaotic traffic, noise and increasing pollution were no longer for me.
I first visited Estonia on the prompting of Andrew Rosindel MP³ who had invited me to address a conference in Tallinn on the subject of conservative values in contemporary society. Andrew had no idea the ‘Pandora’s Box’ he was opening! And at the time, nor had I.
On the surface the UK MPs largely viewed Estonia as an independent state recently liberated from the Soviet Union. And indeed so it was. However underneath the facade lay a seething disharmony. I had to be there to begin to understand this and its vital implications that have become clear as time has passed.
Within a year of arriving in Tallinn I moved my residential base to a fourteenth century house in the Old Town.
Between 2002 and 2013 I spent most of my time in Tallinn with regular monthly visits to London.
As the digital age was dawning, I quickly realised that most business matters could be dealt with wherever one was actually based, once close ties had been established, and that one no longer needed to live in an aeroplane.
Hence my Introcom⁴ activities developed in the Middle East, Europe and Russia continued to flourish. In addition, I wrote three books which would not have been possible in the frantic life of London. My residential time in Tallinn ended in 2013 and now I dwell in the peace and tranquillity of rural Norfolk again.
Frequent visits to London convince me that rural life is best. The digital age seems now almost out of control and mobile devices have become dangerous addictions.
I am writing this on my terrace looking across to the garden, now organic, pulsating with life and the increasing habitat of bees, butterflies and songbirds.
Thankfully this estate has been in the same family for over two hundred years⁵. There is a rhythm to daily life. People know and respect each other - there is