Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption
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Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption - Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Textile Science and Clothing Technology
Series Editor
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Kowloon, Hong Kong
More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/13111
Editor
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption
../images/466319_1_En_BookFrontmatter_Figa_HTML.gifEditor
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Head of Sustainability, SgT group and API, Kowloon, Hong Kong
ISSN 2197-9863e-ISSN 2197-9871
Textile Science and Clothing Technology
ISBN 978-981-13-1267-0e-ISBN 978-981-13-1268-7
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-1268-7
Library of Congress Control Number: 2018945910
© Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2019
This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed.
The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use.
The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.
This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. part of Springer Nature
The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore 189721, Singapore
This book is dedicated to:
The lotus feet of my beloved Lord Pazhaniandavar
My beloved late Father
My beloved Mother
My beloved Wife Karpagam and Daughters—Anu and Karthika
My beloved Brother
Last but not least
To everyone working in the fashion sector to make it SUSTAINABLE
Contents
Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands & Sustainable Consumption 1
Aline Buzzo and Maria José Abreu
Fast Fashion and Sustainable Consumption 19
Faustine Binet, Ivan Coste-Manière, Clément Decombes, Yan Grasselli, Dortmolk Ouedermi and Mukta Ramchandani
Fashion Brands and Consumers Approach Towards Sustainable Fashion 37
Asimananda Khandual and Swikruti Pradhan
© Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2019
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu (ed.)Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable ConsumptionTextile Science and Clothing Technologyhttps://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-1268-7_1
Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands & Sustainable Consumption
Aline Buzzo¹ and Maria José Abreu¹
(1)
2C2T-Textile Engineering Department, University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal
Aline Buzzo
Email: aline.buzzo@gmail.com
Maria José Abreu (Corresponding author)
Email: josi@det.uminho.pt
Abstract
The phenomenon of fast fashion chains is due to the way this business model manages its production chain and supplies. Combining the quick response to the agile, lean retailing and leagile processes, it is possible to deliver products to retail outlets in a few weeks, in response to growing consumer demand for new goods. The excessive consumption of fast fashion is also due to social media involves issues such as sustainability in fashion consumption and work practices within companies and their suppliers. On the other hand, the awareness of the concern with the consequences of this consumption gives rise to new ways of consuming and producing fashion causing less impact both environmental and social.
Keywords
Fast fashionSustainabilitySlow fashionSocial mediaValue chainConsumption
1 Introduction
The first chapter aims to reveal how the fast fashion business model works and how the processes involved in the production chain deliver new products to stores in a few weeks. The fast fashion concept first emerges in the late 1990s as a way of characterizing the rapid change in fashion and its form of consumption that some companies have begun to adhere to. According to Shimamura and Sanches (2012), the phenomenon of fast-fashion, even though it is not a novelty in the sector, draws attention to the high profitability achieved and the continuous expansion
since when the model was adopted by major brands in the years 1990. Zara, a Spanish brand belonging to the Inditex group, is today the main representative of this marketing model. Still according to Shimamura and Sanches (2012) speed is an important part of the process, but it is not the only characteristic. In addition to production speed, time, risk and cost must be taken into account in an efficient way. Ciettá (2010) argues that the ability of this system to manage risk-related problems effectively is one of the reasons for its success. The second chapter shows how the arrival of social networks accelerated the consumption of clothing and made them obsolete after being shown on the Internet, as well as the consequences on the consumption behavior of people, since, as Barnes and Lea-Greenwood (2006) explicitly explains, the chains of fast fashion had a negative impact on the environment, since many clothes in these business models are made of plastic fibers. It is important to note the change of habit use of the garments since the arrival of fast fashion
chains as well as social networks. In a survey of 1500 women aged over 16 years, 33% of respondents said they considered the cloth old after wearing them just over three times, and one in ten women wear a garment only three times before it leave it at the bottom of the wardrobe (Barnardos 2015). It is necessary to take into account other materials used in the fashion industry, such as the metals of the trims, dyes and the entire process that involves the production cycle of a garment until it reaches the consumer, including ethical and labor practices, as it is reported in chapter three. Sustainability in the textile chain does not end when a garment arrives in stores. It still goes through labor practices and fair trade. India, for example, has the largest workforce in the fashion industry. About 35% of workers earn a salary equivalent to 80% minimum wage (Kerr and Landry 2017). A revolution in the way fashion is consumed is required, since each citizen is not only the audience but also produces, finances, collaborates and disseminates fashion (Carvalhal 2016). The alternatives to the excessive consumption in fashion through the creation of platforms of resales, loans and repairs of clothes are treated in the chapter four and, in chapter 5, the objective is to report how the slow fashion can be an important tool for the consicente consumption in the fashion.
The slow food
movement, which emerged in Italy in the 1980s as a reaction to the growth of the fast food lifestyle, inspired the concept of slow fashion
(Clark 2008). According to Fletcher (2007), the factor time
is not so important in production, since the planning is done in the long term and does not requires subcontracting and temporary workers. In 2007, Hermés handkerchiefs,