Stern's Guide to European Riverboats and Hotel Barges

By Steven B Stern

This comprehensive guide lists descriptive information for every European riverboat and hotel barge, inlcuding vital statisitics, stateroom size, descriptions of public areas, dining, shipboard facilities, and itineraries.  Each vessel is evaluated as to comfort, and luxury. Hundreds of photos of the vessels exteriors and interior

• Language: English
• Publisher: Stern's Travel Guides, Ltd
• Release date: Jan 20, 2016
• ISBN: 9780692623305

Book preview

CHAPTER 1

THE RIVERBOAT EXPERIENCE

S.S.Antoinette on Rhine (Courtesy Uniworld Boutique River Cruises)

Scenic Jewel (Courtesy Scenic Cruises)

Riverboat cruising has gained exponentially over the past few years as seasoned cruisers seek a different kind of cruising experience and wish to explore destinations they have not previously visited. During the past five years, new companies have been formed and dozens of new, more luxurious vessels have entered the market.

The first major company to offer sleep-aboard riverboat cruises with cabins as we know them today was KD German Rhine line, later renamed K D River Cruises of Europe. Its first ship was launched in 1960 and was soon followed by seven others, offering cruises on the Rhine, Elbe, Moselle and Danube Rivers and the Main Canal. Originally, these early entries into the riverboat industry located all of the cabins on the lower two decks, and the public areas, consisting of a dining room, lounge, bar and purser’s office on the top enclosed deck, with an open sun deck atop ship. Cabins tended to be quite small with two single beds, one of which would convert to a couch during the day and the other would fold into the wall. There would be one or two small windows, a small closet, an armchair, a wash basin and vanity, and a small toilet and shower compartment.

As new, more modern ships were built by other companies, KD gave up the overnight cruise business, and today operates riverboats for day trips, transportation and events on the Rhine, Elbe, Moselle and other rivers. In 2,000 KD sold nine vessels to Viking River Cruises which had formed in 1997 and, at that time had five other ships. Today Viking can boast the largest fleet in the riverboat industry.

Another pioneer to riverboat cruising was Uniworld which commenced operations in 1976 and has over the years revamped its fleet, and, today has several of the most modern and upscale vessels. Peter Deilmann EuropaAmerica Cruises also entered this market during the last decades of the 20th century and in 1987 built the largest and first truly upscale riverboat, the Mozart which offered cruises on the Danube River between Budapest and Passau. Unfortunately the company had some financial difficulties and sold off its riverboat fleet.

During the past ten years, the riverboat industry has experienced a metamorphosis with newer and more modern vessels being built each year while older riverboats have been gradually retired. The new breed of ships now prides itself with more elegant décor, cabins similar in size and amenities to ocean-going vessels, some with French and/or regular balconies, elevators, exercise rooms, swimming pools, saunas, alternative dining restaurants, and more organized tours.

By necessity riverboats are long and narrow with limited decks in order to be able to pass through the locks and under the bridges of the rivers they navigate. Thirty-eight feet wide appears to be the maximum width to enable the vessel to traverse the entire route between Budapest and Amsterdam. The Mozart at seventy-five feet in width was limited to a specific itinerary.

On most of the recently built riverboats, there are three passenger decks. The staterooms on the bottom deck have small windows, while those on the top two decks are built with either large picture windows, French balconies, real balconies, or a unique structure that opens up like a balcony-style sitting area, but is inside the cabin. All of the staterooms generally have twin beds with high quality bedding that can be converted to queen size, wardrobes and dressers for storage, electronic safes, refrigerators, cable televisions, internet connectivity or Wi-Fi, telephones, a sitting area, and bathrooms with toilets, shower stalls, robes, slippers, hairdryers and vanities for storage. Those on the higher decks are more spacious, more desirable and more expensive.

Almost all of the riverboats built since 2008 offer several suites with dimensions that can vary from 250 to 450 square feet. Thus, the cruiser who is used to luxury accommodations can now enjoy a similar experience on riverboats.

Suite (Courtesy Scenic Cruses)

Suite---S.S. Catherine (Coutesy Uniworld Boutique River Cruises)

All of the ships will have an attractive main dining room serving breakfast and lunch, both buffet style and with a la carte offerings that can be ordered from the kitchen and served at your table. The breakfast buffets are quite elaborate and typically include a variety of juices, fruits and cereals, freshly baked breads, rolls, croissants and pastries, a display of cold cuts and cheeses, salmon, herring, pates, different styles of egg dishes, breakfast meats, and specialty items, and coffees, teas, espresso, cappuccino and champagne.

Lunch is often a combination of a variety of herrings, pates, cold meats, cheeses, salads, desserts and ethnic items indigenous to the area being visited, complemented by warm offerings from the kitchen.

Multi-course dinners generally include two choices of appetizer, soup, salad, main course and dessert. Do not expect the same variety one finds on an ocean-going cruise ship. Most of the more upscale riverboats include wine, beer, soft drinks, and specialty coffees with meals.

Dining Room Amacerto (Courtesy AMA Waterways)

Aquavit Terrace-Alfresco Dining (Courtesy Viking River Cruises Longboats)

On-deck barbeques or Bavarian-style buffets are featured at least once during each cruise on most lines; and alternative dining venues are becoming de rigueur on the newest vessels.

Every riverboat has a large, all-purpose observation lounge and bar with floor to ceiling windows for viewing the passing scenery. This is the locale for lectures, entertainment, afternoon tea and before dinner cocktails.

Lounge--Amacerto (Courtesy AMA Waterways)

Van Gogh Lounge, S.S. Catherine (Courtesy of Uniworld Boutique River Cruises)

Other common areas found on most vessels include a lobby with an information and tour desk, a library, a small sundry shop, a place for hair-styling and/or massages, and a sun deck with lounges. Some of the newer ships also have a small gym, an indoor or outdoor pool, a sauna, an additional indoor/outdoor observation lounge serving coffee and snacks, an elevator between passenger floors, and (as mentioned earlier) alternative dining venues.

In the past, little entertainment was offered on riverboats other than piano music in the evenings, port lectures, and local musicians, entertainers or dance groups occasionally brought aboard ship while in port. During the afternoons there may be cooking classes, wine or beer tasting, language lessons, card tournaments or crafts. The variety of entertainment may be improving as the riverboat companies seek to attract a more diverse and younger clientele. Special evening events ashore are offered by some companies, such as the option of purchasing tickets for an evening concert in Vienna.

The main appeal of riverboat cruising is the ability to visit cities and villages not available to cruise ships, and to be able to dock right in the heart of town so as to be able to disembark and immediately be close to the main attractions. Escorted bus and/or walking tours are offered daily, most of them gratis, with experienced guides. Passengers are furnished ear phones enabling them to hear the guide even though they may be a reasonable distance away. Generally, passengers are briefed by the cruise director as to what to expect prior to the tour. Every evening before dinner, passengers gather at cocktail hour to hear an explanation of what is to occur the following day.

Courtesy Avalon Waterways

The various companies have different policies as to pre-cruise and post-cruise hotel stays, transportation to and from airports, and air arrangements included in the cruise fare. Generally, these are separately priced items.

There is always the consideration as to what to bring along. Most ships recommend country club casual for the evening, but suggest a jacket for the captain’s dinner. The weather and time of year will dictate most of your wardrobe. Europe is generally cold during the winter months, but in the summer can vary from very warm to quite cool, depending upon where you are cruising.

Of course, it is always advisable to bring all of your medications and daily sundries, a rain coat, a sweater, good walking shoes, and comfortable clothing. Since you are always in one town or another, it is possible to purchase any item that you may forget. The riverboats provide umbrellas. Since you must fly to the city of embarkation, you will most likely be limited to one suitcase weighing no more than 40 to 50 lbs. (unless you are flying business or first class).

A description of each of the major riverboat companies marketing to English-speaking passengers can be found in Chapter 3 along with detailed descriptions of their vessels, photos, menus and daily programs. Further, I have assigned a market category to each vessel; i.e., Deluxe (A), High Premium (A/B), Premium (B), Comfort Plus (B/C), Comfort (C) and Modest (D).

CHAPTER 2

THE HOTEL BARGE EXPERIENCE

Courtesy European Waterways

Although hotel barges have plied the waterways of Europe for many years attracting a select segment of the cruising population, only recently has a barge cruise vacation gained popularity with the broader traveling public. Unquestionably, this is a very different experience from an ocean cruise, and even a riverboat journey; and therefore, although adored by some, it probably is not for everyone.

What it is: It is an intimate, rather exclusive experience, akin to being on a private yacht with a small group of friends or family, with attentive, expert service, superb cuisine, great wines and cheeses, breathtaking scenery, opportunities to walk or bike along colorful tree-lined canals, no long lines, and six days and nights of no hassle, relaxation, as well as an opportunity to get in touch with your inner self, and that of your significant other.

What it isn’t: There are no entertainers, no gambling, no alternate dining options, no selecting your dinner companions, no spacious outside decks, no elegant lounges, and no visits to large cities.

Let me make it clear from the outset that there are barges and there are barges! Just as cruise ships run the gamut from ultra-luxurious to mass-market mediocre, so do hotel barges. Of course, you get what you pay for; and, the privilege of a barge sojourn does not come cheap.

Tariffs for the typical six-day/six-night cruise, not under charter, starts at about $1,500-$3,500 per person and can go as high as $8,500 per person. The average runs about $4,000 to $5,000. For those chartering an entire barge, group rates for the six nights vary from about $15,000 to $75,000. (Much depends upon the size of the group and capacity of the barge). As mentioned earlier, hotel barging may not be for everyone. However, the prices do compare favorably with the cost of a deluxe suite on a luxury cruise ship; and offer a pleasant respite from traditional cruising.

Most barges accommodate from four to twelve guests, are 15 to 16.5 feet wide and from 80 to 128 feet long. Almost all are air conditioned, have a main, all-purpose lounge with comfortable seating, an adjoining dining room stocked with upscale china and stemware, a library of books and C/Ds, often Wi-Fi and an internet facility, an open bar filled with fine wines and name brand liquors, and a small, outside deck area for sunning (some have dining tables and/or a heated pool or whirlpool).

The deluxe and premium barges carry an English speaking captain and crew, which includes two or three cabin steward/ waitresses, an accomplished chef, and a cruise director (which is often the captain) who explains the daily itinerary and escorts passenger on the daily excursions. This varies somewhat on non-deluxe/premium vessels. On most hotel barges there is a wine tasting of premium wines and cheeses indigenous to the region at both lunch and dinner. On many of the privately owned barges the owners serve as captain and/or chef.

A mini-van or mini-bus follows the barge as it meanders slowly down the waterways and serves to transport guests on their daily sightseeing tour, and provides fresh produce, bakery items and other groceries to the chef. The bus or van will also transport passengers from some transportation-accessible city for both embarkation and debarkation.

During the day, there will be one or two excursions to a castle, monastery, cathedral, winery, vineyard, a farm, a historic town, or some other place of interest. Guests can take walks, jog or ride bicycles along the canals between villages or the numerous locks that the barge must maneuver. Cyclists will especially enjoy the exhilarating experience of riding along these picturesque waterways; and, most barges carry enough bicycles to accommodate the number of guests aboard.

Meals are at a set time and everyone dines together. Breakfast almost always includes freshly baked croissants, baguettes and pastries from nearby villages, as well as, cheeses, cold meats, fresh fruits, juices, cereal and eggs.

Lunch and dinner are prepared by the on-board chef and commence with a starter such as an imaginative salad, a soup, a quiche, pate or similar fare. Main courses will vary and can be meat, fowl, fish or a cassoulet. A different creative dessert follows each meal and precedes the wine and cheese tasting presented by the chef or a member of the crew. It is possible to make special requests to the chef; and, I have cruised with vegetarians and others with food