Provence and the Cote d'Azur: Discover the Spirit of the South of France

By Janelle McCulloch

“Weaved with McCulloch’s insights on the architecture, beaches, gardens and boutiques of the French Riviera, each destination comes alive.” —Holidays to Europe

Take a journey through the dreamiest regions of France: the enchanting villages of Provence and the magnificent coastline of the Cote d’Azur. From the author of Paris, this gorgeous lifestyle guide steers readers away from crowded tourist destinations to reveal hidden gems at every turn: overflowing markets, chic ateliers, quaint cafes, cobblestone streets, sweeping vistas, and exceptional galleries. The accessible writing provides history and context for each stop on the adventure, and the vibrant, color-soaked photographs capture the spirit of this popular place. Provence and the Cote d’Azur is a must-have for lovers of style, food, travel, design, and, bien sur, France!

“Janelle McCulloch has created yet another beauty of a book—Provence and the Cote d’Azur is a must for Francophiles (and will convert those who are not upon first look).” —You May Be Wandering

• Language: English
• Publisher: Open Road Integrated Media
• Release date: Mar 17, 2015
• ISBN: 9781452148748

Book preview

DISCOVERING THE SPIRIT OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

The South of France is the stuff of travel hyperbole. The region may not have invented the word glamour, but it has certainly adopted it as its mission statement. This famous part of the Mediterranean coast is a glorious, almost painterly swirl of spectacular, sun-filled landscapes, seductive villages, sublime beaches, secret coves, scented gardens, high-octane cars, beautiful people, and a blissful climate.

Adding further interest is the fact that there are two sides to the South of France. There is the coast, an area that encompasses the Riviera, with its charming coves, bobbing yachts, Belle Époque architecture, bougainvillea-draped lanes, grand villas, and waterfront promenades buoyant with life.

And there is the countryside, an area that includes Provence—a gentle and charmingly photogenic scene of winding roads, weekend markets, sleepy villages, Roman ruins, enchanting châteaux, fields of lavender and sunflowers, babbling fountains, and dapper gentlemen chatting or playing boules in ancient squares, all enveloped in a light that seems almost Impressionist in quality.

SAY HELLO TO PROVENCE AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR

Now something needs to be clarified before we tie our hair in a silk Hermès scarf and start our sky-blue Sunbeam convertibles. The terms Côte d’Azur, Provence, and the French Riviera are not so much strictly defined geographical areas as they are states of mind: each a shift in spirit that happens once you get past a certain point on the road from Paris to Nice. The official name for this region is Provence-Alpes–Côte d’Azur. But as that’s a bit of a mouthful, shorter phrases have crept into the vernacular. Some people like to use Côte d’Azur or the French Riviera if they’re visiting the Mediterranean coastline along the southeast corner of France, or they’ll say Provence if they’re visiting the hinterland and countryside further inland. Other people see the entire southeastern corner of France as Provence. It’s complicated, I know.

To be precise, this region comprises six major départements. However, for the purposes of this book we have decided to simply split the region into two areas: Provence and the Côte d’Azur. Easy.

That’s the admin done; now for the short history and glamorous anecdotes. Like much of Europe, the history of this part of France is long and complicated. It begins 40,000 years ago with prehistoric settlements, Greek colonies in 600 BC, Roman influence from around the third century BC, endless barbarian invasions, and the incredible fortifications of the medieval period that form the core of many of the region’s breathtakingly beautiful villages. Unfortunately, space does not permit me to delve deeply into such a complex past, but I will attempt to offer some insights into the history of each town as we go.

For now, let us focus on the more recent legends who have passed through this area: F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald in Juan-les-Pins; Picasso and Graham Greene in Antibes; Matisse in Nice; Béatrice de Rothschild, David Niven, and Somerset Maugham in Cap Ferrat; Cocteau and Chanel in Menton, and Bardot in Saint-Tropez. They came for the garden parties, the soirées, the people, and the experiences they’d later immortalize in print or with paint and canvas. They came for the sun and fun, the decadence and indiscretions, the swimming coves and beaches, and all the sights in between.

Yet it wasn’t always like this. The South of France only really became popular at the end of the eighteenth century when the British and northern European upper classes saw its potential as a winter resort. When the new railway arrived in the mid-19th century, the area rapidly became the playground of the European well-to-do and, soon after, the wealthy American set. And it is still one of the most popular places in the world for stars to escape to. Elton John loves it so much that he bought a home in the hills above Nice. Bono has one on the beach at Èze-Bord-de-Mer. Sting and his family like to come here and hang out each year, as do Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Giorgio Armani. And Jack Nicholson often cavorts here, although it’s usually on a yacht with a few beautiful models. Some days, particularly in May during the Cannes Film Festival, half of Hollywood seems to have decamped to the Riviera.

The South of France does, however, have a flip side. Overdevelopment has ruined some of the beautiful coastline, and in the height of summer the roads are often jammed with cars. Even in Provence, the lines of summer tourists can become an eyesore on the lavender-etched landscape. But you can still find old Provence and the classic Riviera in many places: the coastal paths around Cap Ferrat and Cap d’Antibes, the pretty side streets of Cannes and Nice, and, of course, the back roads of Provence.

So sit back, refill that glass of wine, and get comfortable. Because we’re about to explore two of the most beautiful places in the world: the enchanting villages of Provence and the magnificent coastline of the Côte d’Azur.

INDIVIDUALIZING YOUR ITINERARY

The key to enjoying the South of France is to focus on what you love. Although tempting, it is not a good idea to try to cover all of the South of France in one holiday: You’ll just become exhausted. The distances are greater than you think. Instead, go to just two or three areas that offer what you really want and explore them in depth. So if you prefer the quiet of the countryside, the winding lanes without traffic, the fields of wild-flowers and lavender, and the quaint ancient villages, then spend most of your time in Provence. If you love lively streets, shopping, sheltered swimming coves, and an endless view of yacht sails and the elegant blue of the Mediterranean, stick to the coast.

Wherever you go, don’t discount the lesser-known parts of the region. Cap Ferrat is extraordinarily beautiful; and Menton, with its Italian feel, brightly colored architecture, and profusion of gardens, will charm and delight. So go off the beaten path if you can; you may be surprised.

Another thing to consider is your level of expectation—some of the so-called famous places may not quite live up to their reputations. When I first saw what one friend described as the sexy, sybaritic village of Saint-Tropez, I wondered if I’d missed something. Where were the celebrities? The chic sidewalk fashions? The famous Saint-Tropez spirit? Admittedly I was visiting in early May, before the season was in full swing, but I was still slightly taken aback by the empty, windblown beach and the incongruous sight of dozens of übercruisers from the Cayman Islands squished into a tiny harbor. Don’t be too disappointed if parts of the Riviera don’t look as you imagine they did in the glamorous heydays of the 1950s and ’60s. Things do change.

This leads me to an important consideration: timing. Just as some places have looked better in the past, some will be more appealing at certain times of the year. Provence looks glorious in spring and summer, when all the flowers are out. Cannes seems to sparkle in May, when the film festival brings the stars to town. Ditto Monaco during the Grand Prix. Many other places have festivals throughout the year that turn the streets into one long party, so if you love a festive atmosphere try to time your visit with these. Personally, I prefer the quieter coves and villages, which is why I fell in love with Paloma Beach and the coves of Cap d’Antibes. But you’ll no doubt find your own favorite hideaway.

HERE ARE SOME WAYS TO SEE THE GLAMOUR AND GRANDEUR OF THIS GLORIOUS PART OF FRANCE

By foot. Some of the most beautiful parts of the coast and countryside in this region are off the main roads and even off the village lanes. Look for the many walking paths (they’ll usually be marked sentier). Be sure to take lots of water and proper walking shoes, but even if you want to stroll along in casual sandals, there are plenty of paths along the coast that offer a quick walk and fantastic views. The path from Nice to Villefranche and Cap Ferrat is one such walk. If you prefer to stay in the towns, there are many great walks, such as the one along Nice’s famed Promenade des Anglais that follows about three miles/five kilometers of stunning Belle Époque–era architecture and azure blue sea.

Follow the stars. Many parts of the Riviera attract big Hollywood names in May during the Cannes International Film Festival. Hang around Cannes during the festival and you’ll likely see a few famous faces. Or head to Saint-Tropez in July and August for some more celeb sightings, where they often sail in on mega-yachts before lunching in town. Some places, such as Les Caves du Roy and Club 55 in Saint-Tropez, are perennial star-pleasers, so the odds of seeing a name there are high.

Follow the artists. Many painters have made their names while settling in the South of France and capturing the light and landscapes on canvas. You can still see where many of them lived and worked; and, if you can’t visit their villas, there are museums (musées) that showcase their lives. These include the Musée Matisse in Nice, the Musée Picasso in Antibes, the Musée Marc Chagall in Nice, and the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul de Vence. Some people even opt for a painting vacation, where they bring their watercolors and spend leisurely afternoons trying to capture the gentle light and landscapes on paper. I can’t think of a better way to experience this place—or to remember it.

Explore it from behind a wheel. The South of France has long been known as one of the world’s great driving destinations. There are the famous corniches (the roads that hug the cliffs along the coast), the touring roads of Provence, and all the lanes in between. Hire a classic car or even a convertible (but make it a small one—some roads can be tiny). This is the way to see the coast as it’s meant to be seen: from behind the wheel of a beautiful car.

See it from two wheels. Cycling holidays are an increasingly popular activity in Provence (no doubt influenced by the Tour de France), though less so on the Riviera, where the traffic is horrendous and drivers are downright scary. But on the back roads, cyclists are a common sight—and what better way to see the countryside? Sure, there are hills and mountains, but they only mean that the bottle of wine at the end tastes even better.

PART ONE PROVENCE

Quiet squares shaded by canopies of gnarled plane trees. Old stone fountains ringed by clusters of rustic shops. Atmospheric cafés