Pub Crawl: A Poem of Philadelphia
By Ernest Yates
()
About this ebook
Part Melville, part Joyce, part Bash travel diary and part Barthesian semiotics, this account of a poet’s journey through the wilderness of postindustrial Philadelphia is much, much more a search for freedom, God, love, community, and home; a meditation on the city’s and nation’s history and on the poet’s own life; a tentative definition of poetic form; and an argument concerning the relationship between poetry and life. Emerson and Stevens?but also Brooks, Ginsberg, Kerouac, and Lorde?would be smiling.
Ernest Yates
Born in Ancon, Panama, and raised in New Orleans, Ernest Yates obtained a doctorate in English from the University of Pennsylvania. He has lived and worked in the Philadelphia area for fifty years. Mr. Yates has published poetry in dozens of literary magazines and journals, and has won the Grand Prize of the Pennsylvania Poetry Society, among other poetry awards. For further information, please consult Mr. Yates’s website? ernestyates.com
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Pub Crawl - Ernest Yates
Copyright © 2019 by Ernest Yates.
Library of Congress Control Number: 2018912975
ISBN: Hardcover 978-1-9845-6344-6
Softcover 978-1-9845-6343-9
eBook 978-1-9845-6342-2
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.
This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, places and incidents either are the product of the author’s imagination or are used fictitiously, and any resemblance to any actual persons, living or dead, events, or locales is entirely coincidental.
Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Getty Images are models, and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.
Certain stock imagery © Getty Images.
Rev. date: 02/13/2019
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CONTENTS
Key To Atchisen’s Itinerary
Atchisen's Itinerary
Prologue: Small Talk
I. FURTHER BEYOND
From FINNIGAN’S WAKE
to SFÂNTA TREIME BISERICA ORTODOXÅ ROMÂNÅ
II. SOMETHING ABOUT DESIRE
From SFÂNTA TREIME BISERICA ORTODOXÅ ROMÂNÅ
to THE BARBARY
III. SOMETHING ABOUT WORDS
From THE BARBARY
to the old SCHMIDT’S BREWERY (defunct)
IV. SOMETHING ABOUT SONG
From the old SCHMIDT’S BREWERY
to ORTLIEB’S JAZZ HAUS
V. IT’S A POOR SORT OF DRUNKENNESS
From ORTLIEB’S JAZZ HAUS
to the parking lot of AIR CON FILTER SALES AND SERVICE
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
VII. WHEN THE WHIRLWINDS PASS
From the parking lot of AIR CON FILTER SALES AND SERVICE
to ST. PETER THE APOSTLE CHURCH
Epilogue
To Jacqueline
KEY TO ATCHISEN’S ITINERARY
SERVERS OF THE SPIRIT
3. SFÂNTA TREIME BISERICA ORTODOXÅ ROMÂNÅ
11. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF ST. AGNES
12. ST. JOHN NEPOMUCENE
13. ST. MICHAEL’S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH
15. ST. ANDREW’S ORTHODOX CHURCH
16. ST. NICHOLAS EASTERN ORTHODOX CHURCH
17. NURSERY MISSIONARY SISTERS CONVENT
18. UKRAINIAN CATHOLIC CHURCH
19. BAPTIST CHURCH
20. ST. PETER THE APOSTLE CHURCH
23. SECONDA IGLESIA CRISTIANA MISIONARIA
24. ST. JOHN’S UNITED METHODIST CHURCH
KEY TO ATCHISEN’S ITINERARY, CONT.
SERVERS OF SPIRITS
1. FINNIGAN’S WAKE
2. DAVE’S
4. SPORTS CAFÉ LOUNGE
5. BAJA BEACH CLUB
6. SOUTH BEACH CLUB
7. THE BARBARY
8. STANLEY’S TAVERN
9. BULL’S HEAD INN
10. ORTLIEB’S JAZZ HAUS
14. R.U.B.A. CLUB
21. W&J BAR
22. PERNITSKY’S BAR
25. POOR HENRY’S BREWERY
+ the old SCHMIDT’S BREWERY
59089.png AIR CON FILTER SALES AND SERVICE (parking lot)
57120.png35557.pngPUB CRAWL
SMALL TALK
Prologue: Small Talk
Imagine, as you hear this,
that all clocks are stilled;
that the day’s urgent
business is buffoonery—
—haphazard—
conducted by clowns.
The world seems steeped in languor.
But you and i both see
a robin leaping on a trimmed lawn.
A car at the corner
accelerates to beat a yellow light.
A maple leaf careens toward
brittleness on earth.
I walk with you hand in hand, my dream—
my next song will be longer.
I.
FURTHER BEYOND
From FINNIGAN’S WAKE
to SFÂNTA TREIME BISERICA ORTODOXÅ ROMÂNÅ
AMERICA, TE QUIERO
Thirsty from playing in Panama’s sun
i would stand before the icebox door
and call her—
America, leche!
And she would come, cantering, to the kitchen.
Like a black mare, her hair
tied back in a red kerchief,
big-boned, bosomed, hipped,
angular elbows and knees jutting
beyond her calico dress.
America, agua!
And she would come.
Originally from so far back in the hills of the Zone
my mother had to instruct her in
the manipulation of doorknobs,
she knew her way around by then.
At my call, she would drop
sponge, rag, broom, mop,
and canter to the kitchen, bantering
in a language that i did not understand,
the language of adults,
to give me drink.
"America, quiero leche!
America, quiero agua!
America, …"
Bourbon, baby, make it straight.
No rocks, no water.
I want to taste it clear and sharp.
For, you see, i myself have grown,
cut my eyeteeth, and come north.
The world is old and large, i’ve learned—too old,
and too large
to care when you’re thirsty,
to hear when you cry out.
And now, from deep down in my cups,
my own sparkling cups
bought and paid for, many times,
i wish that i could tell you
TRUTH in our common tongue
(that old familiar banter
that you would not miss)—
i miss you now, America.
Second day, fourth month,
one thousand nine hundred ninety-ninth year of
our Common Era,
i stand at the corner of 3rd Street and Spring Garden
and look west. Fair noontime sky, a dozen
cloud puffs
stir—white impurities defacing profound
blue depths.
Recessed from the street, like a grid the facade of
SOCIAL SECURITY ADMINISTRATION—
seven rows
of plate glass windows set in
russet panels—
hides from view the taller, narrower towers of center city.
No one to accompany me, no one comes to say good-bye.
Long miles ahead,
down narrow roads, past modest buildings
and humble shops—
now in my mind the city hovers like a half-formed dream.
Strapped to one wrist, an audio recorder fits neatly in
a cupped palm.
DOORWAY
This was no ordinary passage to the stars,
but a modest step through a portal meant to be
available to anyone who paused,
considering a while the dusky room beyond.
There one would muse under dimmed chandeliers,
among shadowy outlines of stuffed and ancient chairs,
upon a dark tableau, mahogany and unpolished brass,
bric-a-brac of an old chateau
illumined through a window by the moon.
Cold hearth and worn settee recall a time
gemütlicher than this, gathering its meaning by
the gilded ornaments and furnishings of absence.
Once passed, the doorway was mere painted frame
but inconceivable to pass again.
For there, across the threshold of the greatest gift,
alone amid the dark and silence one would move,
discovering desire and a word for love,
a word for courage, and a multitude for pain.
Eager for this afternoon’s adventure, yet i delay a moment for
a drink …
in that most dreary of nearby watering holes,
that den of Irish adolescence on the make,
FINNIGAN’S WAKE.
I’ve always delighted in the spontaneous
and slapdash,
in the aesthetic laxity that challenges authority,
undermines more scrupulous
standards of beauty,
and recklessly attempts a shortcut directly to
sublimity itself …
as if we could dispense with conventions like harmony,
unity, symmetry, and take the universe’s awe-inspiring
mystery
by surprise—all its grandeur,
all its dust.
For what else do we mortals know besides
desire and suffering; and what else, in all our
damning ignorance,
could inspire the thought of grandeur if not
that same desire,
that same suffering—as though we citizens could never see
ourselves as dust, and so are eternally constrained despite
the evidence
to see ourselves as grand; in spite of all the compelling
evidence,
to see this squalid world as grand,
and thereby ease the suffering in our hearts.
Therefore, a drink!
A VALEDICTION
Say that our bodies will be broken, and stone
become our hearts; that our souls shall shrivel
and dry like leaves in an autumn wind;
that once divided from each other, we
shall always be alone, a part of us
always lamenting that wholeness we felt
before our old lives suddenly were burst.
Was our love, then, frivolous and untrue?
a summer’s play? compared to years of sorrow,
a brief and, in the end, pointless interlude?
At Teotihuacan, to demonstrate
their wares, the Indians play flutes of clay
among the ancient Toltec pyramids.
Primitive melodies from peddlers’ pipes
rise up to haunt the limestone altars where,
two thousand years ago, bodies were broken
and bled in order to propitiate
cruel gods. For this the plaster-covered stone
was drenched with the blood of men, so that
commerce and agriculture might be blessed.
The stones, even in ruins, are real enough,
and a desert wind still withers the leaves;
it is the piping, though, that i recall—
that fearsome, haunting sound, that brutal blend
of earth and air, that music charged with the grit
of western deserts where sidewinders writhe
and with the flourish of a plunging hawk.
The pipe like a plumed serpent sounds our fate,
Quetzalcoatl, never to return,
exacting a perpetual goodbye.
FINNIGAN’S—an ersatz Irish pub where
neon script
in windows spells out names of best-selling beers,
and where the would-be trendy,
hip and worldly-wise,
nurse drinks around a circular bar.
Even my friend Gary,
who will problem drink in any pub,
seldom chooses to drink in
this charmless place.
If Li Po lost his way en route to
the Three Gorges
and whimsically chose to stop in, he would probably resolve
never again to set foot in
this juice house.
What’s taking that bartender so long,
he might ask,
as he once did about a wineseller …
but that wouldn’t be his only complaint.
Odor of beer,
cigarettes, bacon, and burgers;
vinyl décor;
and the cloying friendliness of the bartender and clientele
would all have added to his distaste.
Unsociable, i
sit alone at a scarred wooden table, flag
a waitress,
and order the only available cabernet.
FOUR FACES IN A WINEGLASS
Compared to you, that vase of daisies cuts
but coldly to the tawny cloth.
Those flower-flakes are love foregone,
of nature like a finished poem;
the clipped sprouts drink
until they die. You stand
seemingly as trim and still,
half an hourglass upturned
but nowhere for the sand to run;
and yet your stem thrusts upward
from its curving, contoured base,
and your cup is rounded to
a widdershins and deasil swirl,
that swivel of a woman’s hips
as, perched on thinner thighs, she lopes.
I lift you like a chalice where you glow
beneath a lamp, to where
the purple, pungent wine contains
distortions of my face;
a second face, of daisies rearranged;
another, like a gruesome mask,
distant as the moon’s white chill;
and last, my sweetheart’s fair and smiling face.
Whether our world be fragments, or whether our world be
whole,
we can always only know it in
dreams.
This neighborhood called Northern Liberties contains
a dozen churches and as many saloons within
its one square mile.
I would visit them all, and study them all, and yet sense
something
always and ever greater than what i see.
It may be God, it may be spirit, a vanished culture
or THE FAIRMOUNT BAR …
but something always beyond what i see.
So PLUS ULTRA!
as Henry Chapman Mercer said,
who built his own castle in Bucks County out of
poured concrete,
and crowded walls of each quirky room with
decorative tiles
of his own painstaking manufacture.
Those rooms contain Mercer’s collections of rare books,
skulls on mantels,
etchings, pottery, paintings, antiquated maps,
obsolete tools,
ancient ceramic shards with cuneiform inscriptions.
But more than anything else, Mercer displayed
the words PLUS ULTRA—
engraved, embossed, printed, painted, sculpted,
etched and scratched
on tiles boldly exhibited
above many a fireplace.
Cartographers
of the Middle Ages often printed
NE PLUS ULTRA—
not further beyond—on those segments of their maps
representing the Atlantic.
According to legend,
the phrase was also inscribed on the so-called
Pillars of Hercules,
headlands forming the strait of Gibraltar,
as both proscription and ominously
grim warning:
do not venture into the great Sea of Darkness.
If you do,
beware the hideous monsters lurking there.
And indeed, hideous monsters were often sketched breaking above
treacherous waves
in the Atlantic of their maps:
narwhals, demons,
octopi, serpents, dragons.
Mercer reversed both proscription
and warning,
turning them into injunction and consolation:
PLUS ULTRA.
Further beyond. And given our mortal limitations,
for us there is always a further beyond.
It could be God;
but Mercer meant that any man or woman who,
like Columbus,
conquered fear and challenged superstitious prohibitions,
could illuminate the Sea of Darkness and discover
authentic new worlds.
Accept this as your existential challenge and your blessing,
Mercer would say.
Wherever you are now, and wherever you desire to be,
this is your human duty and your gift:
go forth and be free.
MARDI DOUX DOUX DOUX ET GRAS
I pick my way through litter at the end of a parade.
The street’s a world of color, palette of
a pagan god whose pageantry consists
of carnival display, to show
what lagniappe can be made of crepe
in moonlight, underneath flambeaux.
A song coincidently rises in my heart
or in the streets; my mind’s not real
except as it reflects desire
stemming from this moment in
an iridescent festival of sound.
Sweet Tuesday, there is no guilt
i can imagine that can rival
the cold sweat of this can of beer
that sticks, tenacious, to my palm.
Sweet Tuesday, there is no fear that can deter
me from the next step i know to take,
and damn perspective to priests.
Sweet Tuesday, Epiphany revealed
no charm so fair
that it could tempt me from
this present, keen, carnal cell.
Fat Tuesday, i confess there is
no spoken or written word,
either of tenderness or firmness,
that can satisfy me like a song uplifted
in a plain and unpretentious voice
boldly expressing desire.
Perhaps nothing’s more American, and more fraught with risk,
than Mercer’s catchphrase.
It recalls Jefferson’s formula that God has ordained
life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness as gift to
humankind.
Mercer has simply extended this principle of Jefferson’s
political theory
into a romantic, quasi-divine sanction
of curiosity, of innovation.
PLUS ULTRA, indeed.
Whatever is beyond myself
i am bound to seek,
whether it be ORTLIEB’S, or evil,
the old SCHMIDT’S BREWERY, or good,
saloons, churches, crimes,
whatever makes Northern Liberties what it is—
eyesore,
figure of transcendent beauty,
God or Satan beyond a chain-link fence,
the blatantly vague,
the endless, boundless mystery.
THREE SPANGLES
Your tchack tchack tchack conveys
ferocious memories of that sordid world
in which, by day, you spend your time
assaulting insects for a living;
and by the robin’s tjeep tjeep tjeep
in and of the cool of this summer evening
you express your spirit’s acquiescence;
and then there is that cardinal call
by which you sing the long and lazy
evocations of desire—
a whooit whooit whooit
for tomorrow, and what your mating brings.
My neighbor says he wants to get an air gun,
put a stop to all your racket, and get some sleep;
but i appreciate your mockeries,
that allow me to forget
the mud and muttering of my life.
I see your silhouette on my antenna.
Your song is like three spangles
dangled in the evening sky;
three stars bang-bang-bang
in sequence like Orion’s belt;
three sequins on a black silk gown.
At the bar
a man’s falsetto voice prompts a burst of laughter,
joke’s crack dissolving in hubbub and smoke.
I plot my journey.
At Bodine and Brown, Sfânta Treime’s
the nearest church.
Starting there and ending who knows where,
i’ll track not only churches
but ragtag remnants
of the Liberties’ industrial past:
factories,
breweries, tanneries, workshops, warehouses
still scattered among tumbledown homes;
sports bars,
bistros, nightclubs, taverns, taprooms,
saloons
hunkering and unknown to all but alcoholic die-hards.
Old but still eager, chromium alloy
implants for hips,
orthotic inserts in my shoes, i have this short
pick-me-up of wine
for all the impetus i need.
April sky cerulean with flounces,
tree buds
on the verge of bursting, an emptiness of
expectation
aches against the inside of my ribs, …
Northern Liberties is waiting.
SCREEN PORCH
Ah, on a summer night, and stars
speckle and blaze pinholes of light
in black firmament’s pocked shell.
Arcturus is declining, Vega dazzles from on high,
and the dragon frolicking on the big bear’s back
wraps Polaris like a gift
posted to Diana’s nymphs and the daughters of Atlas.
White, its plains the color of bruise,
a gibbous moon bathes the hills black green.
Birch and bulky oak raise canopies above earth,
full, rounded forms shadowing the rise,
ragged branches ruffling with each breeze.
Footsteps scrape stones of a distant farmer’s stair,
then fall away, voices of strangers passing.
Grass smells sweet of dew and heavy, vegetal decay.
Behind me, shutters wide, windows blacker than sky,
my home is dark and silent as a new-spun cocoon.
After the disasters
of this past century, maybe the world this close to
a new millennium
can anticipate a century of peace
in which advanced technology holds forth
a promise
of greater prosperity and dignity for
all humankind,
and more peaceful intercourse among nations. I doubt it.
But yesterday Canada established the region of
Nunavit
out of the Northwest Territories.
Last week
Piccard and Jones circumnavigated
the globe in a hot-air balloon.
Only last month
Nigeria chose a new president
Obasanjo
in its first election since 1983;
Crown Prince Abdullah became King of Jordan,
and Jammu
witnessed the revival of the Democratic
Janata Dal Party.
Such changes declare only that the world changes,
but may also show that men don’t have to be the mad
bloodthirsty butchers
we’ve proven to be in the past, creatures of deliberate
cruelty.
No no, our capacity for change reveals nothing
if not our potential to pursue
beauty and good
beyond what we knew before, instilled with
fiery passion
to follow any free-chosen path.
So i must hold wide open
both mind and eye
as i wander through Northern Liberties, i must deliberately withhold
final judgment
in order to venture further beyond.
THE FLIP OF THE MOON
How can it just hang there, the moon …
impassive as a silver dollar stopped
at the height of its toss, heedless of an outcome.
It seems that it must always shine regardless
of the fate-filled night and doom of sleep—
is shining now on bloodless bodies sprawled
in battle’s aftermath; and shining now
on bodies half in death and half in wonder
in their dreams: of last connections gone kaput,
machines awry and nature skewed, a steady plash
of blood drops in the drum and drone of towns,
and the veins of pavements glinting white.
Does it mock us in our dreams?
Does it take some heartless, adolescent glee
in the shift of emotions, and desires that end,
relishing our pain through an arrogant, bright grin?
Or on the dark side is it truly stone,
obedient to nature’s laws and oracle
to men, disaster’s ever-silent voice,
suspended in our heavens in order to exact
a last full measure of devotion
until all the words of song are coined.
Outside FINNIGAN’S turn left, and left again.
Bodine Street?
In three blocks this crumbling alley veers from gaudiness to
desolation,
and then from desolation to the momentary cheer
of a few restored buildings.
The gaudy is SCHEIB
across the alley from FINNIGAN’S.
SCHEIB
will paint your car any color from the gray of its ramshackle two stories
to the lavishness of its giant signs—
signs so loud
they shout their messages as if to drown the constant
roar of traffic
on Spring Garden’s unheeding thoroughfare.
In red, blue, yellow, white, orange,
and purple
they shout QUALITY AT LOW LOW PRICES
SAVE SAVE
DISCOUNTS NOW AVAILABLE
COMPARE US TO ANY OTHER SHOP
and SAVE.
Less conspicuous among these blaring messages are
the shrill sounds
of scraping, sanding, and polishing machinery
emanating from the depths of
two open garages.
THE BLACK GODDESS
My muse is the woman’s breath
that brushes through moonlit trees.
Dark, she moves darkly, without sound,
except for the rustling of leaves, her clothes.
Clouds curl in her hair, billowing.
Her perfume is the rain, sprinkling about.
Her skin has the texture of freedom, soft and cool,
condensing to shimmering dew.
Body and soul of the blue night,
spare in your favors, be merciful—
for i spend my days in longing
for you, and my days have grown longer.
Without you i’m chained to