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Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess: Easy to  Use  Stitches
Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess: Easy to  Use  Stitches
Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess: Easy to  Use  Stitches
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Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess: Easy to Use Stitches

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I started crocheting when I was a teenager, because my grandmother did. Her work was so beautiful, and I wanted to create something just as beautiful. My mother taught me how to sew and read a pattern, so I new the combination would help me design anything. My first garment was a sweater with a shell st design, it took me about 3-6 months to finish, so that was my last crochet project for 15 years. When I became a hairstylist, I had days when it was a little quieter, so instead of puttering around cleaning everything over and over, I decided to take up crocheting again. This time I found a book called How to Crochet by Pauline Turner. I learned a few new stitches and decided to start with an afghan, I got bored and put it in a bag in the closet. I finished it about 4 years later.
I decided to make a halter-top; after all it was summer. I decided to design it myself, like I always did. I like to have a one of a kind outfit that suits my personality. I actually finished it in a couple days; it was the best feeling in the world. I wore it to work the next day, and sold it to one of the girls that came in the shop. She offered me too much money to say No. A couple days later another girl came in the shop and asked me if I made crochet bathing suits, she was a friend of the girl who bought my halter. I told her that I hadnt made one before, but Ill give it a try. She ended up ordering 2 bathing suits. Thanks Nicole for inspiring me to try designing something new. Thats where my interest in designing crochet clothing began.
If youre like me, you get bored easy, you like to complete projects in a reasonable amount of time, and you enjoy the satisfaction you get from creating a project on your own, then this book may be the one for you!
I decided to change the way I did my pattern layout, so reading it would be easier. It seemed too confusing to read any other pattern (eg: repeat R4-8, 4 more xs, then alternate R2 and 3 till pattern measures 14). So I decided to make it simple to read and to check off each row as I finished it, so I wouldnt lose my spot in the pattern.
LanguageEnglish
PublisherXlibris US
Release dateFeb 26, 2011
ISBN9781477170922
Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess: Easy to  Use  Stitches

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Modern Crochet…For the Beach Babe Goddess - Pamela Dueck

MODERN CROCHET…

FOR THE BEACH BABE GODDESS

Easy to use Stitches

Vol. 1

Pamela Dueck

DEDICATION

I would like to dedicate this book to my mother, Gayle for all her love and support in every venture I have taken on in my life. She has always been there for me and I really couldn’t have come this far without her. I would also like to dedicate this book to my grandmother, Mable for passing on the interest in crochet. She is no longer with us, but she will always be remembered with love.

I would also like to dedicate this to my husband Phil, my soul and inspiration.

Copyright © 2011 by Pamela Dueck. 90411-DUEC

Library of Congress Control Number: 2011901781

ISBN:

Softcover - 978-1-4568-6399-9

Hardcover - 978-1-4568-6400-2

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission

in writing from the copyright owner.

Xlibris Corporation

1-888-795-4274

www.Xlibris.com

CONTENTS

1.   Introduction

2.   Stitches, Hooks, Yarn And Tips

3.   Hook Size Conversion Chart

4.   Steel Hooks Conversion Chart

5.   Tips And Hints

6.   Bathing Suit Patterns

Triangle Bra Bathing Suit Top

Bottoms: Brazilian-Style, Double-Ties, String - Bikini

Short- Waisted Bottoms With Side Ties (Brazilian Style)

Bottoms: Full, French-Cut Bottoms With Lace-Up Front

Sports Bra- Style Bathing Suit

Bandeau – Style Bathing Suit Top

Criss- Cross Bikini

Bottoms- (Pam’s) Full Back With Side TIes And Front Lacing

7.   Tops

Shell-Stitch Halter With Bra Cups

Tube- Top With Side Zipper

Halter (Strapless Or With Straps)

V-Neck Halter

Triangle Halter With Draping Over Stomach (Shell Stitch)

Basic Halter

Basic Halter (With Wider Band At Bottom)

V- Neck And Mesh V- Shaped Hem Halter

Triangle-Top Halter

Hankerchief Style Halter W/ Back Ties

Strapless Hankerchief- Style Halter W/ Angled Hem

Dc Cluster Hankerchief- Style HAlter

Cropped Tank Top

Tank Top With Or Without Fringe

8.   Acknowledgments

9.   References And Contacts

LCC_3289.tif

INTRODUCTION

I started crocheting when I was a teenager, because my grandmother did. Her work was so beautiful, and I wanted to create something just as beautiful. My mother taught me how to sew and read a pattern, so I new the combination would help me design anything. My first garment was a sweater with a shell st design, it took me about 3-6 months to finish, so that was my last crochet project for 15 years. When I became a hairstylist, I had days when it was a little quieter, so instead of puttering around cleaning everything over and over, I decided to take up crocheting again. This time I found a book called How to Crochet by Pauline Turner. I learned a few new stitches and decided to start with an afghan, I got bored and put it in a bag in the closet. I finished it about 4 years later.

I decided to make a halter-top; after all it was summer. I decided to design it myself, like I always did. I like to have a one of a kind outfit that suits my personality. I actually finished it in a couple days; it was the best feeling in the world. I wore it to work the next day, and sold it to one of the girls that came in the shop. She offered me too much money to say No. A couple days later another girl came in the shop and asked me if I made crochet bathing suits, she was a friend of the girl who bought my halter. I told her that I hadn’t made one before, but I’ll give it a try. She ended up ordering 2 bathing suits. Thanks Nicole for inspiring me to try designing something new. That’s where my interest in designing crochet clothing began.

If you’re like me, you get bored easy, you like to complete projects in a reasonable amount of time, and you enjoy the satisfaction you get from creating a project on your own, then this book may be the one for you!

I decided to change the way I did my pattern layout, so reading it would be easier. It seemed too confusing to read any other pattern (eg: repeat R4-8, 4 more x’s, then alternate R2 and 3 till pattern measures 14"). So I decided to make it simple to read and to check off each row as I finished it, so I wouldn’t lose my spot in the pattern.

EXAMPLE:

• R1:

• R2:

• R3:

• *

• *

• *

• R26: **************. Fasten Off.

• FINISHING: ********. Fasten Off.

The patterns I designed are simple stitches that are easy to follow and remember, I don’t know about you but if stitches get too complicated I can’t remember how to do them the next time, I don’t like to count my stitches constantly. Simple stitches can still make for a beautiful garment.

I hope you enjoy following the patterns in my book to create your own designs. Don’t hesitate to get creative with them to make each design your own. If you like to dress things up, beads and sequins can dress up your garment perfectly, or using the right closure, whether buttons, clasps, or zippers. Let your creative side flow, crochet designs to put on your garment. (eg: flowers, swirls of ch sts, etc.)

HAVE FUN AND BECOME YOUR OWN DESIGNER

PAMELA DUECK

STITCHES, HOOKS, YARN AND TIPS

1. Shell Stitch Row

2. Wave Trim Row: (sc, hdc, dc, trch, dc, hdc, sc)

3. Picot Stitch Row

4. Double Crochet (dc) Cluster Row

5. Dc, ch1, skip 1 st Row

6. Triple Crochet (trch) Row

7. Double Crochet (dc) Row

8. Half Double Crochet (hdc) Row

9. Single Crochet (sc) Row

10. Chain Stitch or Foundation Row

28261.png

HOOK SIZE CONVERSION CHART

STEEL HOOKS CONVERSION CHART

TIPS AND HINTS

• When working a corner always ch1 to give a sharper point to a corner

• When forming a curved edge for an arm or neck or leg shaping go from smaller stitch to longer stitch back to smaller stitch, (eg: 2sc, hdc, dc, tr ch, dc, hdc, 2sc). When working from the start of an armhole shaping start with a sl st, (eg: 5sl st, sc, hdc, dc)

• Always double knot when fastening off, and keep knots to the wrong side of garment when finishing

• For V-neck shaping, decrease on every row on the same edge of garment to keep line consistant, and have a wider V-shape. For a less sharp angle, decrease on every second row, (1dcdec on end of 1st row, sc on end of next row, 1dcdec on end of next row)

• Choose a finishing stitch that you feel suits your garment and your style

• Cotton yarn has a little less stretch so will keep its form better for designs that you don’t want to loose its shape too quickly, bathing suits, purses, jackets and long sweaters, that might drag down too much from weight or when wet.

• Use softer yarns for halters, slippers, some sweater designs, baby designs, blankets and throws, this makes for a wonderful texture against your skin or your babies skin

• Decide what type of closure you would like for your garment, before you start the finishing process. The decorative closures and ties decide the personality of your garment, as well as any decorative addition, sequins, beads, buttons, studs and appliques

• The stitch you begin your next row with determines what your turn stitch will be, (eg: if your next row is started by an sc st, ch1, turn; if your next row starts with a dc st, ch3, turn, if your next row is: skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch4, turn, if your next row starts with 1dcdec, ch1, turn)

• When changing colors at the end of a row, leaving yarn on hook, cut 4" tail of color your working on and tie the tail to the new color, keeping the knot close to your work and tie another knot to secure it, continue with pattern

• When designing your first garment, start with easy stitches that you already know or that you find easy to learn. Start with just a couple of stitches to make it easy, and add a new stitch when your ready to change the stitch design of your artwork. I like to learn a new stitch when I feel comfortable with all the stitches I already know. This is where having a book with a stitch library comes in handy. How to crochet by Pauline Turner has a good stitch library, with pictures and diagrams.

• *When holding your yarn, keep the tension smooth, not too tight, and not too loose (hook has to be able to go through stitches easily)

• *When fitting a garment to form closer to the body, you may need to stitch a thread elastic through the stitches on the finishing edge of your garment (eg: bathing suit edges of top, leg, arm or side edges.)

• *When you would like to line your top or bathing suit top and crotch, pin into place and cut a stretchy cotton lining to fit adding ¾" for fold over seam. Fold over and pin into place, using a blind-stitch to attach lining to garment keeping stitching from showing on the right side of garment

BATHING SUIT PATTERNS

MIX AND MATCH YOUR FAVORITE TOP AND BOTTOM

LCC_2890.tif

1. TRIANGLE BRA BATHING SUIT TOP

SIZE: EXTRA SMALL

HOOK SIZE: 4.50 ch hook

YARN: BERNAT HANDI-CRAFTER COTTON

Top and Bottom:

5 – 50gram balls for x-small and small

6 – 50gram balls for medium and large

1lb. ball for x-large, 1lb. Ball + 5 – 50 gram balls for XXX Large

Row 1: ch 24 sts, dc in 4th ch from hook, 5dc, 1hdc, 7sc, 1hdc, 6dc, ch1, turn

Row 2: 2sc in first st, 9sc, 2sc in next st, 9sc, 2sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 3: 1dcdec in first 2sts, 20dc, 1dcdec in last 2sts, ch1, turn

Row 4: skip 1st st, sc in next st, 9sc, 2sc in next st , 8sc, skip 1 st, sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 5: 1dcdec in first 2sts, 17dc, 1dcdec in last 2sts, ch1, turn

Row 6: skip 1st st, sc in next st, 7sc, skip next st, sc in next st, 6sc, skip next st, sc in last st, Ch1, turn

Row 7: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 12dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 8: skip 1st st, sc in next st, 4sc, skip next st, sc in next st, 4sc, skip next st, sc in last st, Ch1, turn

Row 9: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 7dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 10: sc in each st. across to end, ch1, turn

Row 11: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 5dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 12: skip 1 st, sc in next st, 3sc, skip next st, sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 13: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 1dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 14: skip 1 st, sc in next st, sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 15: 2sc, Fasten off.

LEFT BRA CUP: Repeat Row 1- 15 in reverse

FINISHING: With wrong side facing and bottom of bra cup facing up, reattach yarn in left corner. Sc in end st of each row to the top point of cup, ch93 sts, sc in 3rd ch from hook back down to top of bra cup, continue sc st around the rest of bra cup, with wrong side still facing you. Ch5, turn, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, ch5, repeat across bottom of bra cup, fasten off.

TIES FOR LOWER BRA CUP: Ch 250 sts, fasten off. Weave through loops at bottom of each bra cup to join.

SIZE: SMALL

Row 1: ch28 sts, dc in 4th ch from hook, 7dc, 1hdc, 9sc, 7dc, ch1 turn

Row 2: 2sc in first st, 11sc, inc. 1 st in 11th sc, 11sc, 2sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 3: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 24dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 4: 2sc in first st, 12sc, 2 sc in next st, 12sc, 2sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 5: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 25dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 6: skip 1 st sc in next st, 11sc, 2sc in next st, 11sc, skip 1 st sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 7: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 22dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 8: skip 1 st sc in next st, 10sc, skip 1 st, 8sc, skip 1 st sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 9: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 17dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 10: skip 1 st sc in next st, 7sc, skip 1 st sc in next st, 6sc, skip 1 st sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 11: 1dcdec in first 2 sts, 12dc, 1dcdec in last 2 sts, ch1, turn

Row 12: skip 1 st sc in next st, 5sc, skip 1 st sc in next st, 3sc, skip 1 st sc

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