Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees: Walks, climbs and multi-day treks

By Kev Reynolds

A guidebook to 170 walks, multi-day treks and moderate summit attempts in the Pyrenees. Covering the Central and High Pyrenees of France, Spain and Andorra these walks, treks and climbs are suitable for all walkers of all abilities and climbers capable of F to AD-.

Covering the whole mountain range the routes are presented in 21 sections based on valley or massif. Routes vary between short 30min walks to 12-day treks and are graded allowing you to select the walks and climbs that suit you.

• Sketch maps are included
• Detailed information on transport, facilities and mountain huts
• Ascents of 25 summits are included
• Highlights include Pic du Midi d’Ossau and Ordesa National Park

• Language: English
• Publisher: Cicerone Press
• Release date: Sep 15, 2019
• ISBN: 9781783627202

Kev Reynolds

A lifelong passion for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, drove Kev's desire to share his sense of wonder and delight in the natural world through his writing, guiding, photography and lecturing. Spending several months every year in various high-mountain regions researching guidebooks made him The Man with the World's Best Job. Kev enjoyed a fruitful partnership with Cicerone from the 1970s, producing 50 books, including guides to five major trekking regions of Nepal and to numerous routes in the European Alps and Pyrenees, as well as walking guides for Kent, Sussex and the Cotswolds. 'A Walk in the Clouds' is a collection of autobiographical short stories recording 50 years of mountain travel and adventures. He was also the contributing editor of the collaborative guide 'Trekking in the Himalaya' and Cicerone's celebratory anniversary compilation 'Fifty Years of Adventure'. A frequent contributor to outdoor magazines, Kev also wrote and illustrated brochures for national tourist authorities and travel companies. When not away in the mountains, Kev lived with his wife in a small cottage among what he called 'the Kentish Alps', with unrestricted walking country on the doorstep. But he also travelled throughout Britain during the winter months to share his love of the places he wrote about through a series of lectures. Sadly, Kev passed away in 2021. He will be remembered fondly by all who knew him and by many more he inspired through his writing and talks.

Book preview

The author with climbing partner Alan Payne researching routes in 1980 (Photo: Peter Smith)

PREFACE

Since the first slim edition of this guide appeared in 1978, the Pyrenees have changed enormously, and the huge increase in the number of active walkers and climbers has brought about a boom in tourist infrastructure undreamed of four decades ago. Hilaire Belloc’s ‘fleas that tease in the high Pyrenees’ are now a rarity in hotels and refuges that no longer expect their guests to doss down on straw mattresses, while signed and waymarked paths, and improved mapping, have unravelled the mysteries of so many previously little-known valleys.

Not least of all the changes is the transformation of the Pyrenean landscape that once dazzled with modest glaciers and small snowfields on the highest summits. Thanks to climate change, the few remaining glaciers are shrinking at an alarming rate and it has been estimated that there will be none left by 2050. Already we find that once winter snow has melted, the white-capped summits remain white in memory only. But for all this change the Pyrenees remains a wonderland for all who are attracted by wildly romantic scenery and a taste for adventure, and even the most dedicated of aficionados will find that a single lifetime is not long enough to explore it all.

Despite its size, this guide merely picks out a few of the juiciest plums clustered on both sides of the international border between the Cirque de Lescun in the west, and the tarn-spattered Carlit Massif in the east. But there should be enough to satisfy a dozen active holidays. When following any of the routes, whether walks, treks or climbs, my hope is that you will have the best of experiences, and discover for yourself what it is that makes the Pyrenees so special.

Once again I am indebted to fellow enthusiasts for their letters and emails keeping me informed about changes to routes and accommodation, and for valuable suggestions I’m happy to pass on. My good friend and Pyrenean specialist Françoise Besson generously gave me free use of her home in the foothills during periods of research, and joined me and my wife on some of the walks. My wife continues to share my love of these mountains and is the best of companions on the hills, in the valleys and at home, while Jonathan Williams and all the team at Cicerone once again used their skills and talents on my behalf to create the book you hold in your hands. I thank them all for their support.

And lastly, a special debt of gratitude is due to my friends Jean and Pierre Ravier, the ultimate Pyrénéistes, whose generous flow of information, advice and encouragement has been a frequent and much-valued source of pleasure for more than three decades. Their devotion to all things Pyrenean is a true inspiration, and it is both a pleasure and a privilege to dedicate this guide to them. Merci mon amis!

Kev Reynolds, 2019

The Vallée du Marcadau (Chapter 6)

INTRODUCTION

The great North Face of the Vignemale soars above the Oulettes de Gaube (Route 55)

The 400km-long chain of the Pyrenees contains some of Europe’s finest wild landscapes, of immense appeal not only to walkers, trekkers and climbers but also to birdwatchers, butterfly- and flower-lovers, caving enthusiasts and those who gain a thrill from descending waterfalls and rivers – the sport known as canyoning. As an arena for outdoor adventure the Pyrenees fulfil so many dreams.

The Alps they are not, and it would be a mistake to attempt comparisons. These are mountains of another order, with summits in excess of 3000m that are within reach of most hillwalkers weaned on the heights of Snowdonia or the Lakeland fells. There are also vertical and near-vertical walls and pinnacles to test the stamina and expertise of the ardent rock specialist. There are valleys of sheer enchantment, tracts of semi-wilderness to answer the needs of the devoted backpacker, and acres of alpine flowers of such rich variety that the botanist could happily spend months of worthwhile exploration there.

This guide is an introduction to a wonderfully diverse range of mountains. It offers suggestions for walks, multi-day tours and moderate ascents of some of the principal summits in the region known as the Central, or High Pyrenees. Those whose ambitions lie in scaling the more extreme faces are directed to various publications in French and Spanish on sale in Pyrenean resorts that describe routes outside the scope of this book.

The mountains

Exposed strata of the Balcon de Pineta’s wall (Route 86)

‘Europe ends at the Pyrenees’ is a well-established cliché born of a geographical half-truth. For the mountain barrier reaching from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean acts as a natural frontier dividing Western Europe from the Iberian peninsula, separating a mosaic of northern cultures from those of Spain, a country dusted with the hot breath of Africa. With a few notable exceptions that frontier traces the watershed and, generally speaking, the major peaks are positioned along it. There are, however, important massifs – and these include the very highest – that are separated to the south of the international boundary by parallel valleys.

The range is one of startling contrasts. On the northern slopes, for instance, mountains fall steeply to the plains, while the Spanish side is confused by a series of successive ridges – or sierras – which run in a maze away from the main crest to subside in the badlands of the Ebro basin. In the west the Basque country receives heavy, moisture-laden winds from the Atlantic, but the eastern sector has a truly Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and low rainfall confined to the winter months.

Estany Gran de Besiberri lies in a charming valley, in what seems a long way from anywhere (Route 131)

The landscape offers a rich variety of features guaranteed to excite and entice the first-time visitor. Forests of oak, pine and beech in the west are far removed from vineyards and orchards that dress the sun-baked plateaux of Catalonia. Between these two extremes, the High Pyrenees – the area covered by this guide – contains all the attractions of alpine scenery: sharp, irregular peaks sprinkled with snow, remnant glaciers, deep, trench-like canyons, great amphitheatres (cirques), and many hundreds of glistening mountain tarns.

Broadly speaking, the Pyrenees has a central core of crystalline rocks, overlaid by sedimentary blocks brought to the surface during processes of folding. The twisted strata of the Cirque de Gavarnie, and rocks that wall the Balcon de Pineta, are obvious examples. However, the distribution of rock types is complex throughout the range, for while limestones dominate at the western end, granite of varying qualities is generally found in the heart of the chain, although anomalies exist almost everywhere.

Glaciers sculpted the valleys and were responsible for eroding sharp alpine summits and, like the Alps, the Pyrenees were most affected by glaciation during the Quaternary Ice Age. Characterised by U-shaped valleys, hanging valleys and numerous impressive cirques, the central part of the chain bears witness to this glaciation, with well over 1000 post-glacial lakes left behind by the last Ice Age adding to the beauty of the landscape.

Water, too, has played an important role in eroding the limestone masses, and the canyons, subterranean channels and vast cave systems have given the Pyrenees some of its most striking natural features.

Approaching the Circo de Soaso, Monte Perdido makes its presence known

Bordered by Pic d’Anie (2504m) in the west, and the Carlit massif northeast of Andorra, the High Pyrenees contains three national parks (one in France, two in Spain), two large and important nature reserves (one on each side of the frontier) and all the 3000m summits (recently listed as 129 principal peaks, 67 secondary summits and 82 ridge projections: a total of 278). The three highest are all on the Spanish flank: Pico de Aneto (3404m), Pico de Posets (3375m) and the 3355m Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu).

National parks

Dating from 1967, the Parc National des Pyrénées (PNP) begins as a thin ribbon among mountains south of Lescun, and spreads eastward as far as the Néouvielle massif; a distance of around 100km covering some 45,700ha. Within it are found perhaps the finest individual peaks north of the watershed: Pic du Midi d’Ossau, Balaïtous and the Vignemale; the great cirques of Gavarnie, Estaubé, Troumouse and Barroude; and more than 100 mountain tarns. A much larger peripheral zone pushes further north and east, and within that, on the eastern edge of the main PNP, lies the Réserve Naturelle de Néouvielle, which dates from 1935.

The majestic right-hand wall of the Valle de Pineta in the Ordesa national park (Routes 86 and 87)

South of Gavarnie, and sharing a common boundary with a section of the PNP, lies the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido. Although the smallest of the three Pyrenean parks, it is the most visually stunning by virtue of the sheer grandeur of its vibrantly coloured walls and the drama of its three canyons: Ordesa, Añisclo and Escuaín. Ordesa was granted national park status as long ago as 1918, and in 1997 the quality of its landscape – and that of the neighbouring Cirque de Gavarnie – was internationally recognised by inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Today, the only concessions to tourism are a restaurant and car park at the end of a 4km stretch of road. Paths are plentiful, but the magnificent forests of beech, silver fir and pine are quite unspoiled, and the open meadows at the head of the valley display a host of alpine plants. Añisclo is a more recent addition (1982) to the Parque Nacional, and was included just in time to be saved from flooding for hydroelectric purposes. Less well known is the remote Escuaín gorge (Gargantas de Escuaín), accessed by a narrow 15km road that ends at the all-but deserted hamlet after which it is named. North of this the upper reaches of the Valle de Pineta above Bielsa are also contained within the park’s boundaries.

Lac d’Aumar, backed by Pic de Néouvielle in the heart of the Réserve Naturelle (Routes 102 and 103)

The third national park is also found on the Spanish slopes. The Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici lies in Catalonia, a magnificently wild stretch of country between the valleys of the Noguera Ribagorçana and the Noguera Pallaresa, with Val d’Aran to the north. Established in 1955 (extended in 1986 and again 10 years later), it is a region of numerous lakes – many of which have been dammed – sudden jagged peaks and small but idyllic cirques. In the Encantados will be found climbs of quality, yet the whole region abounds with opportunities for scrambles at varying degrees of difficulty, and walkers have a veritable wonderland to explore for days on end.

Although not strictly a national park, the establishment of the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta in the 1990s put a girdle of protection around the two highest massifs. Its boundaries extend from the Valle de Gistau on the west to the Noguera Ribagorçana, with just one road intruding along the Valle del Ésera north of Benasque. West of the Ésera the Posets massif rewards walkers, climbers and trekkers with some wonderful wild country, while on the eastern side the Maladeta attracts on account of its bulk and superior height. Both contain numerous tarns, and display a remarkable alpine flora.

A small glacier pool at the foot of Aneto in the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta (Chapter 16)

Vegetation

With somewhere in the region of 180 plant species endemic to the Pyrenees there’s much to interest botanists. Not only plants normally associated with lowland areas of Western Europe, but also representatives of other alpine regions, those usually found farther south in the Iberian Peninsular, and others with a more specific Mediterranean identity. Each has made its way into the mountains to join those Pyrenean endemics lodged there after successive Ice Ages isolated the range from its neighbouring land mass.

Among the southern foothills, aromatic plants such as lavender and rosemary prosper alongside stunted conifers and coarse grass, while the damp foothills of France are heavily wooded with forests of beech and fir. In the montane belt meadows correspond to the ‘alps’ of Switzerland with a luxurious growth of shrubs and smaller individual plants. Wild fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, bilberries and redcurrants add a bonus to the walker’s day, but it will be the true alpine flower varieties that are of major interest to the botanist.

Known as the ‘Flower Garden of Europe’, at 2500m ice-sculpted rocks of the High Pyrenees are coloured with delicate alpines

Pulsatilla alpina appears in many parts of the Central Pyrenees

In springtime, narcissi flood the hillsides with drifts of bloom, especially in the Val d’Aran. Gentians, crocus, orchids and anemones are found in several extravagant forms. In limestone crevices the beautiful Ramonda myconi survives to add a splash of violet-blue, and on limestone may be seen the white pyramid spray of the Pyrenean saxifrage, or perhaps delicate bells of campanula. In summertime high meadows are coloured by the bright blue mountain iris, Iris xiphioides, and the tall, feathery plumes of the Pyrenean asphodel. Low-growing clumps of Daphne mezereon spread their sweet scent, and Arenaria tetraquetra form hard white cushions on exposed rocks. Both juniper and alpenrose spread across steep slopes, and among the screes, pink clusters of the moss campion Silene acaulis break the monotony of naked rock.

For more in-depth information on the flora of the Pyrenees, the field guide Flowers of South-West Europe by Oleg Polunin and BE Smythies, The Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe by Christopher Grey-Wilson and Marjorie Blamey, and AW Taylor’s Wild Flowers of the Pyrenees are all worth consulting (see Appendix B).

Wildlife

Native wildlife is best represented by the izard, the chamois of the Pyrenees. Herds are to be found in many areas of the higher valleys or roaming the edge of the snowline. No less shy than their cousins of the central European mountain ranges, in the less-frequented corners of the High Pyrenees it is sometimes possible to observe individual animals closely from the shelter of boulders.

With the native Pyrenean brown bear having been hunted virtually to extinction, the controversial recent reintroduction of bears from Eastern Europe has created resentment and suspicion among sheep farmers in some areas of the French Pyrenees, and its fate seems uncertain. About 20 bears now roam the mountains, although you’re unlikely to see any as they are understandably wary of humans. On the other hand, marmots are on the increase, and the mouflon – a type of wild sheep introduced from Sardinia – is thriving in the eastern part of the range. Wild boar, pine marten and wildcats are said still to exist in remote regions. Both red and roe deer inhabit the heart of the range but, sadly, the ibex no longer exists here.

Marmots are found in most of the high valleys

Smaller creatures include the brightly coloured fire salamander, with its yellow and black patches; various lizards and the very rare Pyrenean desman. This last-named is unknown elsewhere in Europe outside the Caucasus and is about as large as a rat, but with mole-like features, a long snout and webbed feet. An aquatic creature, it lives alongside clean, untainted streams and can be found as high as 2200m.

Ornithologists are attracted to several Pyrenean sites during the spring and autumn migrations when huge flights of birds funnel through selected passes. Eagles are represented by the golden, booted and Bonelli’s, while of the vulture family the Pyrenees boast the Egyptian, griffon and bearded – the latter also known as the lammergeier, with a 3-metre wingspan and orange breast feathers. Linnet, goldfinch, ptarmigan, capercaillie, black redstart, nightingale and hoopoe are also seen or heard in various locations. In Ordesa no less than 171 bird species have been recorded.

Getting there

By air

The Pyrenees are most easily accessible via Pau and Toulouse. There are good rail connections from both towns as well as a bus service (www.andorrabybus.com) linking Toulouse with Andorra. Barcelona is also worth considering for visitors to Andorra, as there are daily buses direct from the airport (www.andorrabybus.com). From Barcelona, ALSA has a daily coach service that brings visitors to within walking distance of villages around the Aigüestortes National Park. Check the availability of low-cost fares and routings by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), both of whom at the time of writing have useful regular services from the UK.

By road

Road routes through France to all sections of the Pyrenees are straightforward. Most autoroutes are toll roads, but the cost of using them may well be deemed worthwhile for the time saved. Beware of exceeding the speed limit on other roads as radar traps operate everywhere and infringements usually result in an instant fine.

Travelling by car brings numerous advantages to those planning to base themselves in one or more areas, but it is not so convenient if you plan to make a long cross-country journey such as tackling part of the Haute Randonée Pyrénéenne (HRP). Access by bus or rail comes into its own then.

Roads are excessively busy on weekends between mid-July and mid-August.

By rail

From London to the Pyrenean railhead takes less than 24hr, whereas the same distance by car will normally take almost twice as long. French trains are fast and clean, and the SNCF has a range of discount fares (https://en.oui.sncf/en/). If planning a journey by rail, consider Eurostar from London’s St Pancras station to Paris (www.eurostar.com).

Rail links from Paris (Gare d’Austerlitz) to areas described in the following pages are given below. Note that the super-fast TGV also has a service (TGV Atlantique) via the Gare Montparnasse, which is recommended. Although more expensive than the normal train – reservations are essential – both speed and comfort make it worth considering. In less than 6hr the TGV runs from Paris (Montparnasse) to Pau, Lourdes and Toulouse.

Details of access to specific locations described in this guide are given in the area information box at the start of each chapter.

The celebrated Cascade d’Ars is reckoned by many to be the finest waterfall in the Pyrenees (Route 149)

Weather

Every mountain area has its own climatic peculiarities, and the Pyrenees are no exception. Since the range has a southerly latitude, summer days tend to be hot, particularly in the Spanish valleys where dry air rises from the plains. The northern slopes, on the other hand, are influenced by weather systems coming off the Atlantic, and as moist air sweeps inland rain clouds often reach valleys and mountains far to the east. The watershed crest acts as a barrier, with the southern flank lying in a minor rain shadow; as a result it’s often possible to reach a summit in sunshine on the Spanish side of the border, and gaze across a cloud-sea that fills the French valleys.

This, of course, is a generalisation, and you should not to be too complacent when a day begins warm and cloudless, no matter which side of the border you happen to be based in. Between mid-June and August (again, a generalisation) thunderstorms can form rapidly when the hot, dry air of the Ebro rises in the upper valleys to mix with cooler airstreams spilling over from the north. These storms come with little advance warning and may be quite violent. As they form, summits and exposed ridges should be vacated quickly. It is best, therefore, to plan the day’s activity with the possibility of storms in mind.

Statue of the Virgin at Le Cot in the heart of the Cirque de Troumouse (Route 89)

In May the weather tends to become more settled towards the end of the month. June can be one of the nicest months, although the last of winter’s snow may still be lying in the upper valleys and on some of the higher passes. July and August can be almost uncomfortably hot for long walks or climbs on south-facing routes, while September is often settled and with more acceptable temperatures for trekking with a big sack. Autumn comes in the second half of October, with mist and rain and sometimes snow.

Regional weather forecasts are often displayed at tourist offices, but for a mountain forecast via Météo-France montagne tel [phone]. The number of the Spanish meteorological institute is tel [phone]. For Aragón try tel [phone]. For Andorra tel 848852.

Equipment

The choice of equipment to take depends on the activity planned. On most of the climbs described in this guide no more gear will be required than is normally used on fell walks at home. On those routes where additional items of equipment are recommended – for example ice axe or crampons – a note will be found at the start of the relevant route description. A rope is not always necessary (although one ought to be packed as insurance against an unexpected difficulty or in the event of need for psychological aid). Safety helmets are advised on routes where loose stones are to be found. The ordinary route on Pic du Midi d’Ossau is a classic case in point: there are one or two gullies to be climbed that hold no particular difficulty, but because of the popularity of the mountain and amount of loose rock there’s a very real danger of receiving a stone on the head dislodged by parties above.

On the south peak of the Agulles d’Amitges in the Encantados region (Route 146)

Rock climbers will know what is required in the way of hardware, again depending on the scale of their commitment. Bivouac gear will be needed only on the most severe routes.

For multi-day treks and summer ascents of the higher peaks you will probably be comfortable wearing light clothing, but carry warm, windproof and waterproof gear as the weather can change rapidly. Take plenty of high-factor suncream, sunglasses and lip salve, plus a brimmed hat to shield the sun. Emergency food, headtorch and spare batteries should be carried in the rucksack as well as compass, map of the area and whistle. A first aid kit should always be taken.

If you plan to camp, take a lightweight tent and a sleeping bag suitable for a British summer. Should you plan to spend your entire holiday in the mountains (as opposed to travelling from region to region by car) you are advised to carry sufficient fuel for all your cooking, otherwise you could face a very long hike in order to restock. Do not cook on open fires, avoid fouling water supplies and leave no trace of your overnight stay in any wild camping spot.

Refuges, gîtes and camping

Facilities on offer at Pyrenean refuges vary greatly. Some are well equipped and reasonably spacious, with guardians in summer residence (usually mid-June to late September) offering a complete meals service. Others may be little more than four walls and a roof where, if you plan to spend a night, you’ll need both a sleeping bag and sleeping mat, and be self-sufficient with food and cooking gear. A few of the older CAF buildings manage still to convey some of the atmosphere of the pioneers who first used them a century or so ago, but the more recently established huts erected on both sides of the frontier offer a greater degree of comfort.

Information on individual refuges in areas covered by this guide will be found under specific regional details. For details of refuges, gîtes, hotels and campsites, go to www.pyrenees-pireneus.com, www.alberguesyrefugiosdearagon.com, or try www.pyrenees-refuges.com and follow the links.

In the lower mountains north of the frontier a chain of gîtes d’étape has been established and is indicated on IGN maps. Not to be confused with Gîtes de France (holiday homes) gîtes d’étape are similar to private youth hostels and are often located on farms or in quiet villages. Every gîte should have facilities for self-catering, but many offer a meals service, too. Dormitory accommodation is the norm, but some also have private bedrooms. Showers are provided.

Whenever possible book accommodation in a hut or gîte in advance. This is essential at the height of the season (mid-July to the end of August). Access to dormitories is often restricted until early evening, and rucksacks are not allowed in them. Sleeping accommodation may be on a long communal bunk with mattresses laid side by side, or in rooms with two-tier bunk beds. Blankets and pillows are provided, but a sleeping bag liner (sheet sleeping bag) will be needed for purposes of hygiene. There’s no segregation of the sexes in hut dormitories.

Payment is usually settled with the guardian on the morning you leave, but if you plan to make an early start, make sure to pay your bill the evening before – or you could find your departure delayed because the guardian is still asleep when you want to leave! Members of mountain clubs that enjoy reciprocal rights will receive discounts on overnights, but not on meals provided. Members of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can buy a special reciprocal rights card, which is valid in CAF and most Spanish club huts.

The Besiberri bivvy hut – minimalist, but weatherproof!

The view from Refugi de Besiberri makes up for its limited facilities

Many huts that are manned in the summer have a basic winter room or rooms that remain open out of season, with bunks and a fireplace or stove available for use.

A number of foothill villages have campsites with good facilities. In the mountains most French refuges (and some in Spain) have a designated aire de bivouac nearbywhere it is permissible to pitch a small tent for a single overnight stay, on the understanding that it is not erected until after 7pm and taken down before 9am. A similar rule covers wild camping in the Spanish Pyrenees; a single night’s pitch is tolerated, but multi-night camping is forbidden. In the French National Park (PNP) overnight camping is allowed at least an hour’s walk from the nearest road; in the Ordesa park camping is not permitted below 2100m (in Ordesa), below 2500m in the Pineta Valley (except in authorised sites), and above 1800m in Anisclo and Escuan. All camping is strictly forbidden within the Aigüestortes National Park.

Maps

Sketch maps in this book are not intended to be used for route-finding. You will need to obtain proper maps at a scale of at least 1:50,000, of which there are many available. The 1:50,000 series published by Rando Éditions in conjunction with IGN provides excellent coverage, and will be adequate for most routes included in this guide. The series goes under the general title of Carte de Randonnées and covers the Pyrenees from coast to coast in 11 sheets (six for the region described in this book). Although primarily intended for the French side of the mountains, there is sufficient cross-border overlapping to enable walkers (if not climbers) to do without Spanish maps for all but a few isolated regions; but do study the requirements listed. Details of specific sheets needed for each area are given at the start of individual chapters. Each Carte de Randonnées has major paths marked in red; GR10 and the HRP are highlighted, as are mountain huts, gîtes d’étape and official campsites.

For greater detail IGN produce their TOP 25 maps at 1:25,000 scale. As with the Carte de Randonnées series these have major trails, huts and so on highlighted in red. Details of these maps are also given at the start of each chapter.

Editorial Alpina publish a series of maps for walkers and climbers active on the Spanish side of the frontier. Whie they fall short of standards of accuracy assumed by the IGN survey, improvements are slowly being made – buy the latest editions where possible. Most sheets are at a scale of 1:25,000, but some are 1:40,000, with contours at 20m intervals. Be warned: not all routes shown as paths on the maps are evident on the ground, and may be little more than wishful thinking on behalf of the cartographer. Each Pyrenean sheet is accompanied by a booklet (in Castilian or Catalan), which gives useful information about walking and climbing routes, accommodation, and so on.

Editorial Pirineo, another Spanish cartographic company based in Huesca, has a series of six maps at a scale of 1:40,000 covering the south side of the watershed between Pic d’Anie and the Maladeta massif. Some of the accompanying booklets have English versions, which are worth seeking out.

Andorra is partly covered by Carte de Randonnées sheet 7 and by a dedicated sheet published by Editorial Alpina at 1:40,000. However, the official Andorran survey published by MI Govern has maps at 1:25,000 and 1:50,000, which show most main walking routes and the position of refuges.

For map stockists in Britain, see Appendix A.

The view east from the Pombie refuge, looking towards the Balaïtous massif (Route 17)

Emergency services

In some respects, the Pyrenees offers climbers and long-distance trekkers a greater degree of commitment than will be experienced in many other European ranges, and the question of rescue in the event of an accident can be of particular importance. In some areas the possibility of rescue depends solely on the proximity of other climbers or walkers capable of rendering assistance. In the PNP it is often a fairly speedy process to call up trained rescue services, for most of the popular huts are in radio contact with the gendarmerie and a