Fun and Laughter on Our Summer Holiday

By Eileen Edwards

"Fun And Laughter On A Summer Holiday" continues to show Eileen's amazing observation and her keenness to learn as much as possible about each place she is to visit. Reading about each day is a joy. One day you will be crying with the emotion expressed, but then this will soon be followed with laughter. You will be laughing out loud with Eileen's unique sense of humor.

• Language: English
• Publisher: AuthorHouse UK
• Release date: Nov 30, 2011
• ISBN: 9781467886093

Eileen Edwards

Eileen has kept a holiday since 1964 and continues to do so.

Book preview

BRAZIL (Rio de Janeiro & Recife)

2000 (age 48)

After a busy period at work Alan said: I feel a holiday coming on, and then asked me to arrange something special. I knew he had always wanted to go to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Having seen flights advertised there recently, I made enquiries—and before Alan could change his mind, a flight was booked. We were off to Brazil! We must be nuts!

THURSDAY, 21st SEPTEMBER

ENGLAND

For as long as I can remember, Rio de Janeiro was where Alan wanted to visit. My dream was Hawaii, somewhere I was fortunate to visit twice via Australia. South America had yet to be conquered. Then Alan made a casual remark: I feel a holiday coming on.

That was all I needed. I mentioned that the price of flights to Rio de Janeiro were now affordable. Trailfinders found Varig Airways, a Brazilian airline, were offering the best deal. Often we had gone away on our own with no accommodation, pre-plans, etc., so Brazil was the perfect place to go to—as we were nuts! But we were: so we booked it! We were on our way!

Packed, we caught the ‘bus no.726 to Heathrow Airport arriving at 6:40 pm, taking exactly one hour. At terminal 3 we found zone E, Varig Airways. Our seats were pre-allocated from Trailfinders. I was given two forms to complete with the details of our next of kin—not very encouraging as we were about to fly! Going through passport control and security we entered the departure lounge where our flight was called from gate 31.

With a delay waiting for a take-off spot, we left Heathrow at 10:30 pm, 30 minutes late. Our flight to São Paulo was going to take 11 hours; local time in Brazil was 7:40 pm. Promptly following our drinks was our meal. Both Alan and I were having a glass of whisky and a glass of Coke; the idea for him to have two whiskies, me two Cokes. However, I had one of each, which helped me soon settle down for the night!

Not long after breakfast we arrived at São Paulo (St. Paul), Brazil.

FRIDAY, 22nd SEPTEMBER

BRAZIL

São Paulo

It was 9:40 am English time, 5:40 am local time when we arrived at São Paulo. Once landed, the pilot told us he had to wait for a slot to park the ‘plane. It was totally dark when we landed at 5:40 am, but by the time we were able to disembark at 5:56 am, it was light with the sun shining. We were given new boarding cards for our connecting flight to Rio de Janeiro, flight number RG865, with pre-allocated seats. Waiting at gate 23 for less than 30 minutes, we were called for our flight. As we boarded the ‘plane, we could sit in any seat. We found an aisle and window seat, then at 6:40 am we prepared for take-off, but there was a delay on the runway. The ‘plane waited for several minutes, then returned to our airport slot. Apparently the computer had crashed and could not re-start, so it was decided not to take off for our safety and return for a computer expert to re-set the system. (I didn’t mind as long as it was only the computer that crashed!)

At 8:05 am we were told the computer error had been fixed, finally leaving São Paulo. Our first taste of Brazil was Brazilian coffee; black and very sweet. In record time we arrived at Rio de Janeiro at 8:44 am.

Rio de Janeiro

Arriving at the Rio de Janeiro (River of January), we passed immigration, giving in our customs forms completed on the ‘plane. At the carousel we waited ages for our two cases. Other passengers had so much luggage; one woman with four enormous trunks—one would probably contain our entire wardrobe. Even our largest case looked small compared to others! At arrivals a driver called Marcus offered to take us to a 3* hotel in Rio de Janeiro. Needing a ride and a place to stay for at least one night, we accepted, so Marcus drove us out of the airport to Rio de Janeiro passing a ‘favela’; Brazilian for ‘slum’.

At Copacabana, Marcus drove to two blocks from the beach to the Ibiza Copacabana Hotel at Rua Belford Roxo and spoke to the receptionist. She offered us a double room for $76 = 136.50 real. After Alan paid Marcus 60 real for his taxi fare we were shown to room 1102—the number of my birthday (11th Feb). The brand of the lift was Schindler—yes, you’ve guessed it—we went up on Schindler’s lift. Our room was nice and clean with a beach view (if you stood on tip-toe looking in the right angle!). Alan worked out the exchange rate, which was 2.4 real (R$) to the £, to make our night stay at the hotel £56.66p.

We had a walk around the city, stopping at the Apa Hotel along Rua Republica do Peru. I went in to enquire their rates, which was R$95 a night. Outside Alan was speaking to a porter called Walter who told Alan about an apartment and gave him the contact address. Nearby was the Astoria Copacabana Hotel. Alan went inside to enquire about their rates, R$100 with breakfast. While I waited for Alan, men were playing football along the street using a rat as a ball! The rat was alive when they first started kicking it, but looked very dead after they had finished. No wonder Brazilians were so good at football, if they can even use a live rat as a ball!

Alan and I walked along more roads looking out for hotels, stopping at the Toledo Hotel. Alan went inside and was told they had rooms for R$90 a night including breakfast. Alan found it very hard to be understood, and was even told to speak English! Finding no.83 Rua Paula Freitas where Walter told us about an apartment, we gave the card to a man at the gate and he beckoned us to wait. A lady eventually came down. Seeing the card, she realised Walter had sent us. She indicated in Portuguese she would show us the apartment. Together we walked to Rua Paula Freitas crossing Avenida NS de Copacabana towards the beach where the lady, Elza Morreira, took us to 32 Country and up to the fifth floor and showed us inside room 501. It was right along the beach, ideally situated with a small kitchen, bathroom, lounge and bedroom. It was rather basic, but all Elza wanted was R$60 a night—less than half we were paying. Not yet deciding if we were staying at Rio de Janeiro or if we were travelling north, we agreed to take the apartment for seven days. Alan gave Elza R$150 deposit, arranging to meet at the apartment at midday tomorrow. Although Elza could not speak English and we could not speak Portuguese, Alan and Elza knew enough Spanish to understand each other. She was very friendly, giving us each a kiss as we left.

With our accommodation sorted, we went to the beach for a walk. The sea was very cold. I found a wallet on the beach with only an ID inside. Alan and I stopped for a drink by the beach leaving the wallet on a nearby table. It was entertaining to see one man casually walk over, hide the wallet from us and walk away with it as if we hadn’t noticed!

Later we found a small bar and restaurant called Flor do Lido and, sitting outside to order a drink and meal, I chose a Cubano chicken. The waiter looked surprised at my choice and I soon found out why when my meal arrived. It was easily enough for two, having two enormous chicken breasts, two tomatoes and banana fritters, with a pile of finely cut chips. I was only able to get through half; however, at R$9 was only £3.75p.

Next to our hotel was a quiet café when we arrived, but now many people were outside dancing and singing along with singers who were making a lot of noise banging objects. The loud noise outside our hotel made no difference to either of us, sleeping well after our journey to Brazil and a long day in Rio de Janeiro.

SATURDAY, 23rd SEPTEMBER

I slept well, later going down to level ‘P’ for breakfast. There was plenty on offer, me making a start on the fruit and the lovely Brazilian coffee. Our waiter spoke very good English, which he enjoyed practising on us. He spoke with an American accent, with more Americans than English staying at Rio de Janeiro to speak to.

After a full breakfast, we packed ready to leave. Alan settled our bill in reception, only needing to pay R$2 for our safe key, having already paid by credit card when we arrived. It was then we noticed it was not 11:50 am as we thought, but 10:50 am; my watch was an hour early! We stood at the corner of the road for a taxi, but then decided to walk the five blocks to our new accommodation. It was very obvious we were tourists, walking in the centre of Rio de Janeiro carrying suitcases!

At the apartment we entered the locked gates and the porter ‘phoned Elza to tell her we had arrived—an hour early! Later Janete appeared on Elza’s behalf. She took us to room 501 on the fifth floor. I was pleasantly surprised how nice it was, with fresh clean sheets and linen. Janete explained as much as possible neither speaking each other’s language—but actions spoke louder than words.

When Janete left, Alan and I decided to visit the metro along Rua Barata Ribeiro to enquire about flights and ‘buses to Recife, south of Brazil. We were given prices of both and options. At a supermarket I bought coffee, biscuits, cold drinks, beer for only 19p a can, and what I thought was sugar, but turned out to be icing sugar!

Back at our apartment we discussed plans to go to Recife. The apartment was paid for until 30th September (Saturday), so could work around that, but coaches did not run on Saturdays. The coach journey took 36 hours, but was half the price of the ‘plane ticket, which only took three hours. I suggested a flight one way, coach the other, which seemed the best option. Thinking about it, we walked along the beach to the end by Copacabana Fort. There we stopped at a beach kiosk where Alan had a beer and I had a coco gelado—the juice from a coconut so nice and cold.

The view, with Sugar Loaf Mountain opposite, was lovely. Walking back, we stopped to watch a game of football on the beach. It was amazing how Brazilians could run so fast on the sand, playing without anything on their feet, and with such skill. As well as football matches, several volleyball and beach ball games were played. Getting totally lost, we passed our road, but came across a market with live music. As we walked back to our road, a pigeon flew into Alan’s eye (obviously Alan getting a bird’s eye view!).

Up in our apartment we got ready for the evening. First we had a walk around the shops, then along the beach, stopping at Maxim’s café near the Copacabana Palace Hotel, sitting outside. Our meal, Alan’s two beers and my Coke, only came to R$29.60 = £12—and this was in the centre of Rio de Janeiro overlooking the famous Copacabana Beach!

After eating, we stayed at Maxim’s to finish our drinks and relax, far from being hurried by the many waiters. A local bar, Tabu café was joined with Sucomania Lanche, a bar with tables and chairs. There was a hatch in the middle to serve both. Alan ordered a glass of Chopp Brahma beer which cost only 60p! Later Alan and I went across the road to our apartment at 11:00 pm, and went straight to bed. It had been a long day moving from the Ibiza Hotel and into our new apartment and seeing more of Copacabana today.

SUNDAY, 24th SEPTEMBER

I slept well; being very tired again (it must be the sea air!). We had planned to use the City Rio ‘bus driving around Rio de Janeiro where you paid R$16 for a 24-hour ‘bus ticket using it as often as you wished, getting on and off where ever you wanted.

The beach side of the road was closed for traffic, used totally for pedestrians. The other side of the road was used as a two-way traffic zone. This happens every Sunday or Bank Holiday, and a good idea as obviously Sunday was a very busy day for the beach. We waited by the Copacabana Palace Hotel when exactly at 9:31 am, when it was due, the City Rio ‘bus arrived. Alan paid R$16 each (£6.40p) sitting in the front to make our way to Leme along to the end of the beach. There we turned to travel into the city along Avenida Princesa Isabel and across to Rio Sul going through the ‘new’ tunnel which was opened in 1906, and better located and more accessible than the ‘old’ tunnel opened in 1892. The City Rio ‘bus travelled through Bogafogo; a district which developed quickly after the opening of the new tunnel. There we made our way to Pão de Açucar and Urca to the cable car. As it was a stopping point, Alan was able to get out and enquire about the cost to go up the cable car, being R$18. Leaving the district of Urca, we passed Urca Marina with many small boats, over to Rio de Janeiro yacht club with many large boats.

The next stop was the Corcovado where everyone left the ‘bus except Alan and me. Even a policeman, who had travelled with us, had left. As our ‘bus was mainly a tourist ‘bus, it had been held up in the past, so now police were known to travel on board to give passengers protection.

Leaving the Corcovado we drove through the long Rebouças Tunnel going underneath Corcovado Hill. Driving around Logoa and Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, we then passed through the areas of Garcia d’Avila, the Jockey (Jóquei) club and Heliponto, where helicopters offered panoramic views over Rio de Janeiro, including the Corcovado and Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The next stop was the Botanical Garden (Jardim Botânico) to our right. Next we drove through the district of Gavea with small farms and country estates that extended beyond the Botanical Garden. A road crossed the area over the hill now covered by the Rocinha slum. With the arrival of the trolley tracks at the end of the 19th century linking the Botanical Garden to the downtown area via Bogafogo and Catete, settlement intensified with the opening of the Two Brothers Tunnel (renamed the Zuzu Angel Tunnel). We passed the Jockey club (Jóquei) and the Planetarium (Planetário), a dome seating 277. There were some flats above the Morro Dois Irmãos Tunnel, which looked odd.

Passing a fashion mall, we arrived at São Conrado stopping outside the International Hotel. This was where you change to travel to other areas, but we chose to stay on the ‘orange’ route returning to Copacabana. The district of São Conrado had been untouched until 1960, and an area with the luxurious tall buildings facing the sea and the beehive slums over the steeper slopes in Rocinha. Yet both contrasts had the common view of the marvellous back-drop of mountains and forests on one side and the beach opening to the Atlantic on the other. Throughout the morning the weather was changing from between 34-37 degrees: very hot.

When the City Rio ‘bus was ready to leave we stopped at the Sheraton Hotel, then along Niemeyer Avenue. Hugging the rocky sea side of Two Brothers Hill, Niemeyer Avenue opened in 1916, becoming the only safe access road from São Conrado to Leblon, giving dazzling views of the sea pounding the shores of Vidigal and Leblon. Just before reaching Leblon, the avenue provides one of Rio’s most beautiful look-out points, overlooking the beaches of Leblon and Ipanema. Ipanema also had the beach road closed, so we drove through the street next to the beach, then back to Copacabana.

At our stop we walked to the Sucomania café for a snack, then up to our apartment. Deciding to return to the Corcovado, we walked to Leme Beach at the far end of Copacabana to wait for the next City Rio ‘bus at 1:06 pm. As we waited a group along the beach sang The Beatles songs, sounding very good. There was a general election about to take place, with campaigners for various candidates either walking around the beach, standing waving flags along the road, or just giving out flyers when you passed.

When the City Rio ‘bus arrived we made the same trip (in our same seats!) through the city to the cable car, arriving at the Corcovado stop. The entrance fee for a return train journey to the top was R$18 (£7.20p). The next train was 2:00 pm and we sat at the back to watch as we ascended. The electric train operated every 30 minutes from 8:30 am-6:30 pm. Construction of the 3824m long railway to the top of Corcovado Mountain, 710m high, began in 1882. The line was finished and operational in 1884. The electric train, equipped with a cog-wheel system in order to climb the steep terrain, passed initially through a long forested section before it reached the base of the Christ Redeemer statue. At the base level of the statue we walked around before climbing the stairs to the statue. It was a high climb.

At the top Alan was totally exhausted, puffing and panting and nearly had a heart attack. Had that been fatal, imagine me completing the insurance claim form—‘As my husband reached the feet of Christ, he had a heart attack and died’! The Christ Redeemer Monument was 38m high, weighing 1.145 ton and the distance between the finger tips was 28m, and was inaugurated on 12th October 1931.

The view around was breathtaking. As it was a lovely sunny day, we could see all around the magnificent views stretching several miles, particularly of Copacabana and Ipanema. Alan and I had a photo taken of us with the Christ Redeemer statue in the background; the photo put on a wall plate and only cost R$10 (£4). After a good look appreciating the spectacular views around the Christ Redeemer statue, we went down the next level for a drink in the Corcovado bar overlooking the view of Copacabana.

We stayed at the bar soaking up the hot sun until 4:20 pm, then went down to the base level and caught the 4:30 pm train down to the station, arriving at 4:50 pm. Across the road we waited for the City Rio ‘bus to drive us (in our own seats again) through the Rebouças Tunnel to the Lagoon. The sun was now setting and it looked lovely on the lagoon and the beach. There was heavy traffic near the Botanical Gardens.

At São Conrado by the International Hotel, we waited before we set off again. There was a storm blowing around the beach and the side of the mountain. Our driver missed going into the Sheraton Hotel, and instead continued around to Ipanema. Traffic was now able to go along the front by the beach. The Christ Redeemer statue was clearly lit. It was already dark at 6:11 pm.

We thought about staying the evening at Ipanema, but with the wind blowing heavily, we decided it best to return to Copacabana and be closer to home in case the weather deteriorated. Going along the beach front we could see Ipanema had the same design beach front as Copacabana. However, it mainly had apartments and hotels, with no bars or restaurants on the front.

At 6:31 pm, we arrived back at the Copacabana Palace Hotel, exactly the right time with the driver going slow, almost kerb crawling to ensure he was not too early. It was very windy: the sand hitting hard.

It was still windy so we settled to eat in the first restaurant open, the Chopperia. We sat inside by the front overlooking the beach. After eating we left to walk back to our road and had a drink in the bar opposite, the Sucomania café. Later we went back to our apartment and straight to bed after a long day out in lovely sunshine.

MONDAY, 25th SEPTEMBER

The lovely sunshine never lasted. It was raining!

Our idea to go to Sugar Loaf Mountain and on the cable car was no longer something we wanted to do now the weather was bad. Instead we had another ride on the City Rio ‘bus as our ticket was valid for 24 hours, not starting our trip yesterday until 9:31 am. So we walked to the ‘bus stop by the Copacabana Palace Hotel. Traffic was now going on both sides of the road. Heading towards Leme, we tried to cross over when we saw our ‘bus. By luck it stopped at traffic lights, so Alan showed our ‘bus tickets and the driver opened the ‘bus door for us. As the ‘bus was completely empty, we claimed our front seats again. Having now caught the City Rio ‘bus, we could stay on it for the round trip to Ipanema. By now Alan was an expert driver, knowing the route well—and I was an expert guide, pointing out places of interest on the way!

When we arrived at the Corcovado it was very cloudy and you could hardly see the Christ Redeemer statue. We were pleased we went up yesterday when the weather was perfect for the best view. As we arrived at the twin tunnels it began to rain and when we arrived at São Conrado, it was heavy. Our idea of walking around Ipanema was not so inviting now. All passengers got off at this stop; even the police never stayed on to protect us, obviously thinking we could look after ourselves! At the Sheraton Hotel there were loads of police around, something obviously had happened.

At Ipanema it was still raining and there was nothing around on the beach front, so we stayed on the ‘bus to return to Copacabana, arriving where we first got on. It was now 10:31 am, so took two hours for the round trip.

Dodging the rain, we ran to Universal Travel where we made enquiries with a lady, Amitis Viviani, for flights to Recife. With the flight prices, we went back to metro to enquire more about ‘bus prices. With the ‘bus taking 36 hours, we thought it would be too much to ‘bus both ways, so decided to ‘bus and fly. Looking over the times and thinking about our schedule, I thought it best to fly to Recife and arrive fresh to look for accommodation. Leaving Recife on Thursday by ‘bus we would arrive back at Rio de Janeiro at 8:30 am on Friday and we could pre-book our accommodation before we left. That finally agreed; Marcelo booked both the flight and ‘bus tickets. While these were being processed we were offered a drink; a nice gesture, but I guess we were their best customers for a long time. Alan paid by credit card, and it was amusing to watch them take Alan’s number by etching the number with a pencil—they obviously never had a proper machine. Alan also paid $2 for tax.

It was raining still, so we made our way to the Copacabana Palace Hotel. This was inaugurated in 1923, and Brazil’s most luxurious hotel and the ‘in’ place for the country’s high society. Over the years it had lodged Brazil’s—and the worlds—most illustrious guests, from crowned heads to the heads of State, from artists to film and theatrical stars. I thought we would never be allowed inside, but we just walked in as if residents and followed the signs to the bar. Alan ordered a beer and a Coke and was given a large bowl of cashew nuts which were so tasty, we (I!) ate the lot. All hotel guests were helping themselves to umbrellas at the door to prevent from getting wet, so I also used one. At the other end I thought there would be a place to put the umbrella, but as there wasn’t, nor nobody about, I walked outside with it. Alan was horrified I kept the umbrella, but I wasn’t going to get wet!

At the Telerj Exchange we booked to ‘phone home. We had trouble with the right number to dial (when I asked for the number for England, I was given Holland—Alan wondered why a Dutch woman answered!). With a lot of misdialling, we finally found the right number. Our 60-second ticket was running out, so once we dialled the correct number and Mum answered, we used that credit then Alan bought another ticket. Mum warned the three kids we were ‘phoning back so they all listened on the ‘phone speaker. Mum was staying with the kids from yesterday—so we know all was safe for one week!

Now raining heavily, we went back to change to warmer clothing, something we did not expect to do until going home. Going opposite to the Sucomania café for a drink, Alan and I shared a bottle of the local beer, Antarctica, and stayed in the café until 7:00 pm when the rain stopped and it was pleasant enough to go for a walk. Along the shop route we walked to Leme, stopping for a meal along the beach front. There were televisions everywhere around the café. We had not ventured as far as Leme before, the far end of Copacabana Beach. Along the beach front we passed our road to the Mondego café where we had a drink inside. It was entertaining to see the enormous portions others had ordered. It was also amazing to watch the cars ignore the traffic lights opposite, with between four to six cars driving past until they eventually stopped. It was something to remember when crossing Avenida Atlantica—never rely on the green light!

At 11:00 pm we returned to our road. I went straight up to our apartment, while Alan went for a scotch in the Tabu café to try to clear his head cold which had been getting worse all day. It had been a surprising day with no sun and some heavy rain—something we had not expected in Brazil.

TUESDAY, 26th SEPTEMBER

During the night the weather seemed fine, but at 9:00 am it was raining again.

However, we left at 11:30 am to walk towards Ipanema along the front. Ipanema Beach was completely deserted, so I took a photo of Alan on his own! We walked along the front to Leblon, the other side of Ipanema Beach. This time Alan took a photo of me on Leblon Beach with Ipanema Beach in the background—also on my own! Across Avenida Delfim Moreira, the Leblon Beach road, we walked to Leblon, home to numerous fashionable bars, restaurants, boutiques, shops and nightlife.

Alan and I made our way over to Lagoon (Lagoa). By the Garden of Allah canal we stopped to watch men standing in the lagoon to fish. They were all in one spot, but they must know what they were doing, and assume the fish were stupid! Wanting a drink, there were no bars around Leme, just a restaurant on the lagoon where you could only gain access by a pull-ferry across. Instead we made our way along to the shops at Ipanema, a ‘young area’ of boutiques, prestigious name brands, and renowned jewellers. But there was still no sign of a bar along Rue Visconde de Pirajá, finally finding one about halfway along a side road.

Once Alan had his much needed beer we carried on walking to the end of Rua Visconde de Pirajá, following the traffic road to Rua Francisco Sa towards Copacabana.

Copacabana was originally the name of land on Lake Titicaca, located high up in the Andes between Bolivia and Peru. The district of Copacabana was finally linked to the city in 1892 when the old tunnel was opened. Back along Avenida NS de Copacabana, Alan was more at home to see plenty of local bars. It had turned out better than it started, the rain sometimes spitting, but still not as we expected here. The weather forecast on the television showed the rain was going to continue again tomorrow, which was such a shame. Both ready for the evening, we left to walk along Copacabana Beach front. Checking restaurants, we decided to eat at Manuel & Janquim. It was the only restaurant along the beach front that never encouraged you inside as it was always busy, so they did not need to. As we arrived a couple left, leaving one empty table for us.

Considering the weather had been so bad to start with, we still had an eventful and full day walking into Ipanema and back.

WEDNESDAY, 27th SEPTEMBER

I looked outside. It wasn’t raining—yet! We decided to make our way to the cable car. If the weather was still fine, we would go up; if not we would look around Urca.

Turning right at the end of our road, the ‘bus no.511 came almost immediately. You get on at the back and pay the conductor. Alan gave R$2 and still had some change.

At Urca we got off at the cable car. To go to the top of Pão de Açúcar would cost R$18. The first cable (575m long) links the base station on Praça General Tibúrcio to Urca Hill (220m high). We saw a heliport: Alan made enquiries. The cost was R$85 per person (£32), including going around the Christ Redeemer statue, but with a minimum of three people. One man on his own also enquired, so Alan invited him to join us. John, from New Zealand, was pleased as he was about to give up. Alan paid for our ride by credit card and we walked to the heliport with John. He and his wife were here for two days on a South American tour, leaving today for Argentina. They had been up the Christ Redeemer statue yesterday and got soaked. It was a shame their only two days here had been bad. Staying at the Copacabana Palace Hotel their tour must have cost a fortune.

With the helicopter warm enough for take-off, we were beckoned. John sat in the front seat; Alan and I behind. As soon as we left the ground the sensation of being in a helicopter was magic. We made our way to the Christ Redeemer statue; the pilot first going to the right giving Alan the best view, then turning to go to the left of the statue to give me the best view. This was better than flying right around the statue. Leaving the Christ Redeemer statue we flew to Copacabana Beach along the coastal front and spotted our apartment block. Flying in a helicopter was a thrilling experience: something not to forget. And what a wonderful place to be in our first helicopter flight—seeing the sights of Rio de Janeiro! Approaching base at Urca Hill we were still on cloud 9!

John’s wife greeted us then we said our ‘goodbyes’ to them and made our way to the cable car middle station, passing an original cable car used from 1912 until 1972. Waiting 20 minutes for the next cable car, we climbed to Sugar Loaf Mountain. When it was time, Alan and I were at the front again as we left the middle station to climb Sugar Loaf Mountain. The second cable (750m long) extends from Urca Hill to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain (396m high), a difference in height of 230m. As it was at such a tip I thought nothing would be there other than a viewing point, but it had a bar, shops, play area and even a walking trail around. We saw the lovely views of Guanabara Bay and the districts of Flamengo and Bogafogo. Alan came back from the bar with one Coke and two beers. He only asked for one beer, but his Brazilian wasn’t good enough to ask for one to be taken back. I’ve now heard the best excuse ever!

A man took a photo of Alan and me at the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain with the Christ Redeemer statue in the background. We started talking to the man, Julian, and his parents, Mitzie and Jack. Julian had been to Peru on the Inca Trail before making his way by ‘bus to Rio de Janeiro where he arranged to meet his parents—what a place to meet! Jack invited us to join them at their table for a drink and we chatted about places we had visited. They were well-travelled, and we compared places and stories. They were particularly amused at David’s antics on holiday. By now the weather had turned out really nice, so the setting was perfect—on the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain having a drink!

When they left Alan and I walked around the side of the mountain along a trail, passing a play and picnic area with ropes to hold for the steep ramp. Using the ladies’ toilet was an experience. The end cubicle had glass from the waist up giving a full view of Copacabana! That was very convenient! Having spent a few hours on top of Sugar Loaf Mountain we went back down to Urca Hill. The cable cars were now running every few minutes; our one almost empty with another good view going down. At Urca Hill we caught the next cable car down to the base station, our feet finally touching the ground!

We walked over to the Armed Forces High Command School and the Red Beach Military club looking for the Pista Cláudio Coutinho. Finding the trail, it went halfway around Sugar Loaf Mountain. There were some lovely views of the small Vermelha Beach (Red Beach) and the open sea, plus pretty flowers and even tiny monkeys in trees. The trail came to a dead end with men fishing along the rocks. Having a rest and enjoying the view we walked back to the start, in total a 2.500m walk.

Arriving back we walked along the ‘bus route, Rua Roman Franco, along Rua Marechal Cantuaria into the district of Urca. This was one of Rio’s most charming areas with its quiet streets and views of Guanabara Bay. There we had a walk to Urca Casino, once one of the best known ‘high society’ addresses during the Vargas era. After closing in 1946 the building housed Tupi TV station. We walked around the Urca Beach road of Avenida João Luis Alves to the entrance of the Army School of Physical Education. Further along was St. John Fort built by Estacio de Sa, the founder of the city of Rio de Janeiro in 1565. Enlarged and rebuilt over time, it went into active service in 1618 and currently used by the Army Physical Training Centre and the High Command War School.

Returning back along Avenida Joao Luis Alves which gave a lovely view of Guanabara Bay, we stopped opposite Urca Beach at the Garota café which gave a glorious view of the Christ Redeemer statue, now lit in the dark sky. There we had a drink and meal, once again not getting what we ordered. Alan ordered a Bauru which included chips; I ordered an Americano which did not include chips, but ordered separately. I never had the extra chips; and the toast and melted cheese was as cold as the salad. The waiter took my plate away, presumably to re-order a hot toasted cheese, but instead the salad was removed and replaced by chips! However, if the meal was not good, the setting was—a perfect view of the Christ Redeemer statue lit opposite. It was also amazing to see clouds pass behind the statue, the lights reflecting behind. We were also opposite Guanabara Bay and under Urca Beach. It was the best place for a meal—if you don’t want to eat!

When we left the Garota café we walked around Urca Beach to Avenida Portugal noticing ‘phone boxes on the beach! Overlooking Guanabara Bay and in between Urca Beach and Flamengo Beach, we waited for the ‘bus no.511 back to Copacabana. The ‘bus conductor was amazed we only wanted to go to Copacabana as this was a round trip ‘bus—but we had no option other than walking! The ‘bus took us to Bogafogo, along Rua Voluntários da Pátria to Rua do Humaitá and along Rua Jardim Botanico (the Botanical Garden) to Gavea. The ‘bus ride was also an experience where we hardly touched the ground! If there was a ‘bus race at the Olympics, the Brazilians would easily win a gold medal! It sped towards Baixo (Lower) Leblon and along Avenida Visconde de Albuquerque, seeing the other canal, to the lagoon which led to the sea right on the edge of Avenida Niemeyer. There we turned into Lower Leblon, along Leblon and down Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva to Ipanema along Rua Visconde de Pirajá where we walked yesterday. At the end of Ipanema the ‘bus turned into Rua Gomes Carneiro and Rua Francisco Sa and then into Avenida NS de Copacabana. The ‘bus stop was outside our road. Still in shorts I was cold, so we went into the Sucomania café for a drink. It was busier than we had seen it. A young waiter reminded me so much of Steven. As soon as I entered, he bought over a glass for me to share Alan’s Antarctica beer. I was getting the taste for beer now!

Today had been a nice, dry and warm day climbing Sugar Loaf Mountain by cable car and even having our first exhilarating experience of a helicopter ride around the Christ Redeemer statue and along Copacabana Beach. It finished with a lovely evening spent at Urca with the best view of the statue lit at night overlooking two beaches.

What a difference the weather makes!

THURSDAY, 28th SEPTEMBER

Could the weather last? Yes! There was a blue sky up above! We were in Rio!

We changed US$500 getting R$1.82 then walked to Imatur, the tourist office we went to on Saturday. The cost for a Southern Island tour was R$47 each, so we booked to go tomorrow. Leonardo promised us that it would be a good day for our Southern Island tour. Alan paid R$94, and arrangements were made to be met outside the Copacabana Palace Hotel at 8:45 am.

Alan and I walked to the front of Copacabana Beach towards Leme Beach. The district of Leme was probably the most pleasant part of Copacabana with its relatively calm traffic and a small town business area. Leme was the first point on the beach to be settled with the small fort early in the 18th century. Opening the new tunnel in 1906 had greatly favoured Leme. At the end of Leme Beach was the Duke of Caxias Fort. Around the bay was Fisherman’s Path, a walkway literally carved into the side of Leme Hill, which provided a stunning view of the open sea and Copacabana Beach.

The Sofitel Rio Palace was a ‘convenient’ hotel to use their toilets. Noting their desserts on the menu was what we normally paid for our entire meal! Outside was a covered section with tables for card players to play chess, checkers, backgammon and cards, etc. Opposite was the first kiosk, stopping for a drink; having one at the furthest points across Copacabana Beach and one in the middle! The setting was perfect—along Copacabana Beach with Sugar Loaf Mountain opposite overlooking the Atlantic Ocean—and with sun! Beach sellers constantly tried to sell you anything. I was amused when a shoe shine man wanted to shine my beach shoes and even Alan’s flip-flops! However, Alan was interested in a large plastic map of South America. The price was R$20, going down to 15, 12, then R$10 before Alan was tempted to buy it. We paddled back along the beach, which widened enormously in the middle where sport games were played.

Alan had a cold, daily getting worse with a constant cough, sore throat and running nose. We went to the local chemist where a man could speak perfect English, so Alan was able to describe his symptoms. The chemist prescribed a medicine and tablets. Then we walked along the beach front looking for a place to eat, choosing the Meia Pataga restaurant in between Avenida Atlantica. To avoid constantly offered items to buy, we sat inside the restaurant. The sellers were not allowed in, but one man stood by the window with two cuddly toys and, as I turned, got the fright of my life.

Rio de Janeiro had parking attendants everywhere. As soon as you park they appear to give you a ticket, even late at night. Also late at night they were still playing beach games. The Marriott Hotel was due to open this December, but we peeped through the wooden boarding to see only the outside brickwork completed. With nothing else, to open on time would be almost impossible. We arrived back at our road at 9:45 pm. Alan didn’t want his usual drink in the Sucomania café. Feeling worse, he went straight to bed at 10:15 pm. Although the weather had improved a lot today, Alan hadn’t.

FRIDAY, 29th SEPTEMBER

By 8:00 am we were ready for our boat trip today. It was a lovely day, with a clear blue sky. With a bag for the day, we walked to the Copacabana Palace Hotel. At 8:50 am a BTR (Best Tour in Rio) mini-bus arrived. Boarding last, we sat in the front two vacant seats. Sandra, our guide, introduced us all—from Brazil, Peru, Argentina, Mexico, Denmark, Portugal and us from England—a United Nations tour!

We left Copacabana to drive to Flamengo, seeing its beach and also the naval dockyard, taking the same route from the airport. Sandra told us the bridge running alongside the road was 8½ miles. We left on the airport road, Avenida Brazil, and along Rio-Santos. Approaching Vermelha, Sandra pointed out a favela area which had appeared in only five days. People had made their way from the north of Brazil, found boards and built a village in the hills of the area, which had no name, but will have one given.

Along the road were more posters of candidates for the coming general election over Brazil for a Mayor, each area having their own people standing. Posters were everywhere: up lamp posts and along all the bridges. It seemed to be a contest for whose candidate could get the highest on the lamp posts! Leaving the towns we drove along empty roads. On the mini-bus was Mohammed who worked for Video Tours. He showed us places of interest in Rio de Janeiro and was taking a video of us on our trip today.

Soon we arrived at Itacuruçá. At the village we left the mini-bus to board a waiting boat at the jetty. Everyone dived to the open front of the boat, but Alan and I went to the back under cover. Leaving Itacuruçá port we cruised along Sepetiba Bay, passing several small islands. At one stage a boat rushed up beside ours and a man jumped on. The boat then sailed away. Another boat came to our side and the man left our boat, jumping on that. Sandra was born in Recife and gave us information about it, believing it was better than Rio de Janeiro. A lady called Christina sat at the back with us and Sandra. Christina was another guide; her tourists with ours. Sandra had a drink and let Alan and I have a taste: very different, very nice—and very potent! I suggested to Mohammed he took a video of us now to compare it to us later! It was amusing as soon as he began to film people stopped talking, just posed.

At Estopa Beach the boat stopped for some to either dive or jump overboard for a swim. They were the brave ones. Others climbed down the steps to the sea; and cowards, like me, remained on board—and dry! When the swimmers came back on board we sailed again to Ilha de Jaguanum (Island of Jaguanum).

There we walked along the jetty to the beach. Lunch was served. It was a cold buffet with lots to choose from with fish, sausages and chicken. You could eat as much as you wished. After eating I took a chair on the beach to sunbathe. Alan then called me to say the fruit had arrived. He thought it funny how I jumped up quickly and walked over licking my lips! I helped myself to the melon and bananas and took a small cup of what I thought was syrup, but was in fact Brazilian coffee, which I was dipping my banana in! I sat back on the chair on the beach catching more sun, and then joined Alan chatting to Christina. She spoke very good English having lived in America and her mother was French, so spoke French and also Spanish and Italian. A dog on the island was rather entertaining lying on the towels and shaking himself by people after having been in the sea, wetting them.

Later we were beckoned to leave the island, sitting in the back with Sandra and Christina. Christina told us how they built the Christ Redeemer statue, something we could not work out. It was originally built in France then shipped to Brazil and carried up Corcovado Hill by donkeys, to be reassembled at the top. This was very interesting.

We agreed to order Mohammed’s video for R$40 (£16). It came in different languages with either the attractions of Rio de Janeiro, or all of Brazil to complete the tape. We ordered the English version with just Rio, Alan paying R$10 deposit.

Back at Itacuruçá we went to our waiting mini-bus and left for Rio de Janeiro. Mohammed walked with Alan and me to our apartment to check the address, coming inside reception to also ask for our ‘phone number. He would try to have the video ready tonight or by tomorrow the latest.

Alan and I went to our apartment when our ‘phone rang. Alan spoke to the receptionist, but could not understand what was said, so went downstairs. While he was gone our door bell went—it was Janete. She came in and we had a ‘conversation’ using signs and paper. I asked if we could stay an extra night until Sunday morning, and she agreed. We had paid R$50 deposit, so we only needed to pay R$10 for the R$60 per night for the apartment. Alan walked in after everything was arranged. Apparently as he went down in one lift to reception, Janete came up in another. Alan gave Janete R$10 to settle and arranged for us to leave the key at reception on Sunday morning. I asked if Janete wanted to check everything was okay, but she refused. She gave me her card and hinted if ever we were in Rio de Janeiro again… We thanked her and said our ‘goodbyes’.

With our accommodation settled all we wanted was our video! We waited until 9:00 pm with no call, so left to go out. Having already eaten lunch we didn’t want anything more, so had a walk towards the metro and the Ibiza Hotel. We were going to have a drink in the café next to the hotel where this time last week they had a party outside, but when we arrived it was very quiet. Instead we went to the Camara café along Avenida NS Copacabana where a man sang and played a guitar, all very lively and busy. Inside we were entertained by the locals as well as the singer. Sitting next to us was a Dennis Norden look-alike with a young girl. He kept asking the singer to sing certain songs for his girlfriend and they were so excited when he did. When he ordered a beer, the waiter just put a mark on his beer mat and later counted how many marks were there to pay his bill. His girlfriend had her drinks accounted for separately. Other locals joined in with the singer who rarely sang a song on his own. During his break the locals used the karaoke machine to sing songs. Two women actually had a tug-of-war contest with the microphone to sing one song. One man took his song very seriously—he enjoyed it if nobody else did! It became very crowded and we couldn’t get out, so stayed.

When it emptied we returned to the Sucomania café. This was also packed. Alan ordered a bottle of beer while I stood by a table. The young waiter saw me and found two chairs for us—we were one of the locals now! One woman was seen all week in the bar. She walked in and immediately found a ‘client’ and they left, both returning soon after obviously after some sort of row. At the next table was a big man full of gold jewellery who we wouldn’t want to argue with—and neither did others. Most came over to shake his hand, the man seeming to have a lot of respect. As we were debating whether to leave or stay, the young waiter came over to ask if we wanted another beer—problem solved! When he brought the Brahma bottle over (the best local drink), we spoke to him. He told us he was 19 years old. When Alan went to pay he was charged for two beers, but Alan had already paid for the first at the bar so only should pay for the second. The barman couldn’t remember taking our money, but our young waiter confirmed payment. At 1:30 am we went straight across to our apartment to bed, our latest in Rio de Janeiro.

SATURDAY, 30th SEPTEMBER

Despite going to bed so late, I was still awake at 7:00 am writing a fax to the kids and Mum. First we went to the Telerj Exchange to ‘phone home and speak to Cathlyn, and got through straight away. Downstairs was the Correios (post office) where we were given a form for the fax details to fill in and number 901; waiting our turn. Numbers shown were in the 500s, but after waiting about five minutes, our number was shown to go to Teller 2. Handing in our completed form, he dialled our fax number, connecting straight away. The cost of the fax and a stamp for a card to England came to just over R$12.

By now we knew all the short cuts walking towards Ipanema, finding Rua Bolivar and the Video Tour address, which was just a room in an apartment block. We feared we had missed our video from yesterday and wasted our R$10 deposit.

The only time we had seen Ipanema was in the rain or on the Rio City ‘bus, so it was a first to walk along the beach in the sun, and see the beach crowded. I was looking for the Girl from Ipanema bar, but only vaguely knew where it was. After walking around we gave up and instead walked back along the beach front towards Arpoador Beach (Harpoon Point) where surfing began in Rio de Janeiro. Its geographic location between Copacabana and Ipanema and the constant quality of its waves most of the year, had made Arpoador one of Brazil’s most famous surfing beaches. There we stopped for a drink. Instead of the Girl from Ipanema bar, we sat outside a kiosk beach bar, being the ‘Girl from Croydon’ bar! Boys jumped off the high beach front onto the sand having a competition for the longest jump, which was entertaining and nice to see young boys having so much fun. We walked through the Girl from Ipanema Park recently built. It was 2.5 hectare long and contained various plants. It also cut another corner off from Ipanema to Copacabana.

We walked along the beach, stopping at one kiosk bar for a drink. I had a coco gelado, and asked the waiter for the empty coconut to be cut in half so I could eat the coconut inside. Having used my finger as a spoon, the waiter explained there was part of the coconut to use as a scoop. The sun went down at 4:00 pm when we left the beach. We spotted a Real airport ‘bus, something to use tomorrow when we leave for Recife.

Along Copacabana we went into various hotels to enquire about rates when we return next Saturday, needing a room for one night. We went into the Debret Hotel, the Rio Roiss Hotel (R$160) and the Windsor Palace Hotel (R$154) checking rates before returning to our road. Alan needed to take more medicine for his cough, so we went back to our apartment. No one had collected our envelope, so no video. We then walked to the Copacabana Palace Hotel. Alan suggested our last night at this hotel as something special to end our holiday in Rio de Janeiro. We went to reception where Alan asked the price for one night. He was told it was R$770. Alan then asked for the cheapest room, to be told that was the cheapest room! He kept a straight face as he asked if rooms would be available next Saturday and then we practically ran out! So much for that idea! Instead we went to the Lancaster Hotel and the Granville Hotel (R$120) for their prices.

Outside both hotels a man gave us information for the Copacabana Mar Hotel in Rio Santa Clara now offering a special rate. The Copacabana Mar Hotel was just behind the next road. We confirmed the price we were given, R$120 a night, which included breakfast. It was a 4* hotel, so we made a confirmed reservation for next Saturday, paying in full by credit card. We could also occupy a room when we arrive from Recife early Saturday morning, plus leave our luggage in the hotel on Sunday until we leave for the airport, a service other hotels could not provide for us.

With everything settled, we returned to our apartment where the man in reception produced the video tour from yesterday. Someone had collected our balance and left the video. We went to the Sucomania café for a beer, then I went up to our apartment to pack ready to leave early tomorrow.

Later we got ready to eat choosing the Mondego restaurant, a place we had promised ourselves. We sat inside and were given plenty of poppodom, bread and rolls to eat. With all that was available, there was no need for a meal. Alan ordered a steak; I chose the Mondego special, a hamburger, egg, cheese, chips and salad. It was a pleasant meal in a pleasant restaurant overlooking Copacabana Beach to end the first half of our holiday in Rio de Janeiro.

At 11:00 pm we returned to our road and into the Sucomania café for a drink. It was very crowded, with a party atmosphere out in the road. We only had one bottle of beer before leaving to go up to our apartment and straight to bed for our last night there.

SUNDAY, 1st OCTOBER

With everything already packed yesterday, we were ready to leave our apartment as soon as we woke. There had been an accident along Avenida NS de Copacabana involving a lot of activity near our apartment. With the apartment tidy, we left. As arranged, the key was put in an envelope for either Elza or Janete with the message: ‘Obrigado para seu apartamento’ (‘Thank you for your apartment’).

Outside we walked across to the other side of Avenida Atlantic. No sooner had we arrived, a Real airport ‘bus came along. All we did was put out our hand and it stopped. Such luck—and the ride to the International Airport was only R$3.50 each. Sitting in the front, we also had a good view of the route and saw another accident on the way involving three cars, one almost on top of another. We passed through the local Santos Dumont Airport, carrying on to the International Airport (Galeao). At the airport we first arrived at terminal 2, but the conductor checked our tickets and indicated that VASP was in terminal 1; the next stop. Once inside the terminal we found VASP196 flight to Recife, booking in at desks no.1-10. At check-in the lady had difficulty in typing my name from the ticket issued, using my passport for the correct spelling.

Passing security, we went to gate 1. At 9:30 am we were called to board the ‘plane with three seats either side of the aisle. At 9:55 am we left Rio de Janeiro heading for Recife. A meal and drinks were served, then at 12:30 pm we landed at Recife.

Recife

Walking onto the runway and into a room, we collected our luggage, and left arrivals. Right opposite was a tourist information kiosk where a map was provided for us and a lady speaking good English advised us how to get to Boa Viagem, the beach area at Recife. She made a list of ‘buses to use from across the road by the airport.

One of the ‘buses arrived, so we jumped on with our two suitcases. The lady conductor indicated with a thumbs up sign (which they all do when okay), so Alan paid just under R$3 for the journey. Going by ‘bus seemed immediately a big mistake; especially carrying cases. Three girls came from the back of the ‘bus to sit around Alan, one next to him in the inside seat, one in front and one behind. He whispered to me: we could well be turned over. The girl next to Alan had put her hand by his pocket and then started talking to him, indicating his sunburnt face and asked if I was his wife. This all worried the life out of me. I was scared to stay on the ‘bus; but more frightened to get off. The ‘bus drove along Rua Baráo de Souza Leáo, getting closer to the sea. When it arrived at Avenida Engenheiro Domingos Ferreira we left the ‘bus as it never went along Avenida Boa Viagem. The three girls also got off; so when they went one way, we turned the other. But Alan was now convinced they were more curious about us than anything else as we did look like tourists and they probably never met English people before. However, we still quickly carried our luggage along Rua Baráo de Souza Leáo.

At the end of the road was an open tourist information kiosk. Inside a couple working spoke perfect English. We inquired about places to stay and the girl, Elizabeth, suggested the Bianca Hotel located near the centre of the beach road at Rua Mamanguape. Elizabeth showed us a leaflet with pictures of what it looked like, then ‘phoned the Bianca Hotel, informing us it was R$46 (£18.40p) for a double room. The man with her, Mario, had visited England and stayed in Croydon. They were very friendly and helpful and even gave us their ‘phone number if we needed any more information—or even help!

Several taxis were outside the Boa Viagem Hotel, taking the front taxi to 142 Rua Mamanguape and the Bianca Hotel. The lady inside reception did not speak any English, but when I said tourist information she was expecting us, and confirmed a double room was R$46 a night,