More Journeys of a Lifetime

By Len Coates

When I wrote my first book, Journeys of a Lifetime, in 2004, it reflected how dreams of mine, of visiting unknown places in the United Kingdom, countries across the North Sea in Europe, and seemingly far off continents of America, Africa, Asia, and Australia became reality.

That was mainly due to the advent of air travel, package holidays, and the massive growth of international travel in the second half of the twentieth century.

Nine years on from that book, my traveling has continued, and in that time, having seen the arrival of grandchildren, naturally they have joined in some of the journeys.

Although places visited in that time include some return trips to old favorites, this book reflects only the new places visited. In particular India, the Middle East, the Far East, and nearer home Eastern Europe, all are featured more this time.

Also, as we now have an Aussie part of the family, naturally Australia is also a regular destination. Although the United Kingdom is much smaller in area than the others, it is packed with wonderful places to visit, so trips at home are still often on the itinerary.

In addition, cruising has taken off in the last decade a bit like package deals to Europe did in the 1960s and has added a new dimension to the journeys made. Cruises are featured several times in this book.

More Journeys of a Lifetime reflects the further growth in long-haul travel and the massive increase of cruising. Hope you enjoy my further travels around this small world of ours, going on from those early dreams of mine and continuing to do so!

• Language: English
• Publisher: AuthorHouse UK
• Release date: Jul 25, 2013
• ISBN: 9781481783040

Len Coates

Len Coates was born in Cambois, Northumberland, England, in Apri1 1939. From a very early age, he had a passionate interest in travel.First of all, it was within the United Kingdom. After that, travel widened to Europe, then he was off to Zambia in Africa for two years. Transatlantic travel followed, and he has now been to North America more than thirty times. In subsequent years, his travels have taken him many times to the Far East, the Middle East, Australia, and the subcontinent of India. He has been married since 1967 with his wife, Pauline, with two children, Lesley and Anthony, and four grandchildren, Caitlin, Ciaran, Benjamin, and Layla and has now visited over one hundred countries/islands spanning five continents.

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PART 1

AFRICA-INDIA

ALEXANDRIA

Three days after setting off from Barcelona on the magnificent Celebrity Solstice to cross the Mediterranean Sea we reached land again in the shape of Alexandria in Egypt and the cruise gave us two full days there.

In those three days at sea we had ample time to enjoy the facilities and amenities on our floating hotel and we were certainly impressed, especially a first for us on a cruise of actually sitting on a deckchair on real grass! However, it was also good to have got to the first port and to have the chance to get ashore and to visit a city which we had not previously visited.

Alexandria is a true waterfront city where the desert meets the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean. Although it is Egypt’s second largest city, Alexandria seemed to us to be more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern, so we were not surprised to learn it is also known as the Pearl of the Mediterranean.

Its ambience and cultural heritage to us seemed to be quite different to other parts of Egypt that we have visited on previous trips to the country. Yet the Egypt’s capital Cairo was only around 140 miles away and we knew from conversations in the previous three days that obviously it was a big attraction for fellow guests on board to visit.

However, before sailing down the Suez Canal we were more concerned with having time ashore in the local area to see the city and learn more of the history associated with Alexandria. It was founded way back in 322BC by Alexander the Great and in its long past has been home to some of history’s notable names, including Cleopatra and Julius Caesar.

It was possible for us to see more of the fascinating Roman history by visiting the Roman Amphitheatre, with its galleries, mosaic flooring and marble seating for eight hundred and also Pompeii’s Pillar which is a ninety feet high red Aswan granite column with a circumference of thirty feet which was constructed in honour of Emperor Diocletain. Within walking distance from there are the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa which were tunneled into the bedrock in the days of the Antonine Emperors.

However, to marvel at the beauty of Alexandria we were advised to go to the Montazah Complex. Our tour took us along the seafront road, passed the main square and the city centre to the Montazah Palace, which was built by Khedive Abbas 11. That, was the summer palace of the royal family before the 1952 revolution and King Farouk’s abdication. It overlooks magnificent gardens and groves and was well worth the visiting.

History abounds in the city and an impressive example of Islamic architecture is the mosque of Abu-Al Abbas Mursi. It was originally built by Algerians in 1767 over the tomb of a 13th Century Muslim saint. The present structure was built in1943 when the largely decayed original building was demolished.

We also visited Fort Qait bay where the 15th Century Mamluk Fort overlooks the entrance to the harbour. It was built on the foundations of the Pharos Lighthouse which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and incorporates a castle and a mosque within its walls. Just north of Fait Qait there are more historic relics as it is the site of the famous underwater excavation where hundreds of pillars, statues and sphinxes have been found.

As mentioned earlier many of our fellow guests on board wanted to take the historic opportunities further away by taking tours to see the Giza Pyramids, the Sphinx and the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. However, as they had all been seen on previous trips to Egypt we were happy to spend more time ashore in Alexandria.

There was certainly more than ancient history in Alexandria and it was lovely especially with an overnight stay there, to enjoy a romantic evening stroll along the magnificent seaside promenade. Although we were now in the Middle East it was also good to have time at a very nice beach, for our last look at the Mediterranean Sea which had been our constant companion for the previous three days.

BANGALORE, MYSORE

AND OOTY

Most travellers venturing to the sub-continent have heard of the famous Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur in the north of the country. A few years ago Pauline and I did that trip and it was a wonderful experience. However, as we have found on our numerous visits to India it is a country full of contrasts and remarkable landmarks and fantastic historical monuments.

This time our travels took us to see another trio, namely Bangalore, Mysore and Ooty in the south of the country. Taking the recently introduced afternoon flight with Emirates from Newcastle to Dubai we were into Bangalore, the capital of the state of Karnataka in time for breakfast the next morning

Now Bangalore is synonymous with the IT revolution of India and many will have spoken to someone in that city, as it is the home of call centres for many UK companies. Indeed even on the flight when I said I was from the UK my next seat passenger proudly announced that he spoke to people in England every day!

Bangalore is the third largest city in India and affectionately is known as the Silicon Valley of India, the Pub Capital of India and City of Gardens On our visit we reckoned the latter to be the most appropriate. Certainly in our experience of travelling around India of the large cities it is the cleanest and greenest. There are even golf courses alongside the runway at the airport and right in the centre of the city. Along with its beautiful parks, avenues and historical buildings and monuments Bangalore is undoubtedly full of life and energy. It also has great shopping.

Impressive landmarks that we visited in the city included Vidhana Soudha (the legislative Chambers of the State Government), Attara Kacheri (the red painted High Court) and Bangalore’s version of Windsor Castle.

Away from the city well worth visiting in the Nandi hills is the stunning Bull Temple (Dodda Basavanna Temple) a huge monolithic bull that stands 4.5 metres tall and 6 metres long and it is quite a sight!

About four hours drive on one of the few dual carriageway roads that we experienced is the cultural capital of Karnataka the Palace City of Mysore. This was to be probably the highlight of our tour, but more about that later. First of all on our way and about fifteen km north east of Mysore we stopped at the island fortress of the legendary Tiger of Mysore Tipu Sultan.

To give its correct name Srirangapatna is a seemingly impregnable fort associated with the great ruler and is situated at the western end of the oval shaped island. Also impressive is the beautifully maintained Summer Palace set midst lovely landscaped gardens.

Mysore is dominated by the Palace and here it was another example of having the benefit of research and local knowledge. Although it is magnificent inside, the highlight pardon my pun is to see it illuminated with ninety six thousand lights, a truly magnificent sight. To see it you need to be there on a Sunday night, as it is only illuminated for one hour 7pm to 8pm once each week.

There were more illuminations and dancing fountains to see in the impressive Brindavan Gardens twelve km north west of the city, but for us everything paled into insignificance compared to the Mysore Palace.

One might think with two down and one to go it might be downhill from this point, but in fact it was quite the opposite. We were now heading for Ooty, over seven thousand feet up in the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu.

On the way we made a little detour to visit another magnificent historical site. Located in the village of Belur is the imposing Somanathapura (Chennakeshava) Temple. My words could not possibly do justice to the Hoysala style of architecture with its unending rows of highly ornamented and intricately carved elephants, horses, lions, birds and warriors.

From there it was a case of up, up and up and a most enthralling drive which at one point took us around thirty six hair pin bends one after the other to Ooty. Known as the Queen of Hill Stations one can easily understand why the British were so keen to take to the hills. Here the temperature through the day was like a lovely British summer day around 25C dropping to a cool 5C at night.

Mind you the Taj Savoy where we stayed were well organised for that drop in the temperature. In our heritage cottage set in lovely gardens we had a huge fireplace with wood already in place. While we ate in the restaurant the fire was lit and it was a wonderful sight coming back to a roaring fire!

Other impressive sights in Ooty were the Botanical Gardens sprawling over fifty acres, the lovely Ooty Lake, the beautiful tea estates looking like lush green carpets and the magnificent views from Doddabetta, the highest peak in South India.

Another must when in Ooty is to take the toy train to Conoor down the valley. The train famous for its portrayal in the film Passage to India is a hang-back to days of old, as it chugs its way through stunning and so picturesque scenery, ninety minutes so well spent.

Coming downhill on our way back to Bangalore was just as exhilarating. We still had the trip through Tamil Nadu and Karnataka National Parks where we saw elephants, deer and loads of monkeys.

In fact the latter caused momentarily some alarm. There I was taking a photograph through the car window of three monkeys hanging languidly form the one branch, when another one unnoticed decided to jump into the car. Pleased to say order was soon restored and on that final note I finish another wonderful trip to India!

CALICUT

Kerala is India’s southernmost state and its name literally translates to the land of the coconuts of which there is a great abundance. The ever so friendly Keralites also claim it is God’s Own Country and with Hindus, Muslims and Christians peacefully co-existing together, it is easy to understand why they think that way. Kerala is also one of the ten Paradises Found by the National Geographic Traveller. This is because of its diverse geography and overwhelming greenery.

Last time we went to Kerala we visited Cochin, Munnar and Alleppey. This time to see more of this lovely state we headed for Calicut, the birthplace of the famous quality cotton calico. Of course, the Calicut area has many more claims to fame. For instance the first European to reach India by the sea route around the southern cape of Africa, Vasco da Gama landed at Kappad about 10 miles away in 1498 and heralded the period of Portuguese supremacy.

From our base in neighbouring Goa it is possible to fly or take a train to Calicut. We opted for the 70 minute flight down the west coast. Even before we landed at Calicut the greenness of Kerala, was clearly visible.

As soon as our friend Prakash, a Keralite who works in Goa, was aware we were going to Calicut, he insisted that we must visit his parents Chandran and Shobhana. They were excellent hosts and with Prakash and his family coming south at the same time, we were so fortunate to have them to show us their area.

Their strong family ties reminded us of the extended family situation we experienced while living in Zambia in the 70’s. We were soon introduced to other relatives living nearby and enjoyed wonderful hospitality including lovely traditional meals served on banana leaves. Also we all took to the water on a vallam, a long hollowed-out boat. Even with twenty of us on board, it was unbelievably serene as we glided along the Purakatery river, which is naturally fringed with coconut palms.

Another family trip took us on a thrilling drive three thousand feet up into the Ghats. On the way there were numerous hair-pin bends and absolutely spectacular scenery. The journey took us through bustling towns, and past fields of rice and pineapples and plantations of banana, rubber, spices and of course coconuts.

Our first stop was at Pookot Lake resort, before going on to Kalpetta for a typical local lunch called tally. That consists of rice, mixed vegetables and lots of sauces and was delicious. Then it was on through the beautiful tea estates that looked like a lush green carpet hugging the hills and finally to the magnificent Suchipara waterfall.

The city’s Portuguese heritage is well evident and still plays an important role in the international spice trade. Actually the evidence is quite close to the hotel, because Calicut’s fragrant Spice Market is literally only a few minutes away and was a big attraction to Pauline. It certainly is an energetic city, but I did not mind the short forays into the crowded shops and markets, because the tranquillity and serenity of our superb temporary home was always so welcoming on our return.

Thanks to Prakash we also took advantage of the nationwide one-day strike to take a complete tour of Calicut city in an auto-rickshaw. Pauline loves shopping with the locals on our travels and on other days was in her element there. She bought a good selection of teas and peppers for which Kerala is famous and a number of aromatherapy oils such as sandalwood and lemon grass.

We stayed at the elegant Taj Residency hotel that is set amidst groves of coconut palms and five acres of that lush greenery of which Kerala is rightly proud. It has seventy well appointed and spacious bedrooms and four suites. The hotel also houses the world famous Taj Ajurveda Centre. Ayurveda is a five thousand years old science and excels all other types of medicine when it comes to rejuvenation. Programmes are up to thirty five days and attract patients from all over the world.

However, it is not only a case of lying back and being pampered! For those who are prepared to take responsibility for some of the effort, there is a well equipped fitness centre. In addition as well as the steam room there is a superb outdoor swimming pool. What is more in the British winter, Kerala is enjoying perfect weather in the low 30’sC.

Dining options at the resort are also excellent and allow one to eat casual, or enjoy a fine restaurant with a great selection of delectable dishes and refreshing drinks. As this is our tenth visit to India not surprisingly we are quite partial to the local cuisine.

We ate breakfasts and light lunches in the Cape Camorin coffee shop, and superb evening meals in the Coral Reef restaurant which overlooks the swimming pool.

The city of Calicut, now known as Kozhikode, is derived from the Malayalam expression Koyil Kodu meaning Palace fortified which was later anglicised to Calicut. It is the capital of Malabar and is on the northern coast of Kerala, so naturally has superb beaches lapped by the Arabian Sea.

The best place we found to learn more about the city’s history was the Krishna Memon Museum, a real store house of artefacts and knowledge. Other local attractions visited were the famous eye-catching Thusharagiri waterfalls, Dolphins Point where lots of them frolic in the sea especially in the mornings and the superb Science Planaterium which reveals mysteries of the universe and enlightens about the planets and stars.

To end a wonderful trip we decided on another first an overnight journey by train. It turned out quite an experience and our journey back to Goa was a fitting end. It was quite amazing every time we stopped at a station. There seemed to be hundreds of hawkers joining the train selling everything imaginable! Hopefully, they all managed to get off before the train departed.

Like the Goan people the Keralites are cheerful, friendly and bright… especially the ladies in their beautiful saris. The majority of men emphasise that mood wearing colourful lungis for casual wear, or white dhotis when more formal. They look like long skirts when down, but tuck up neatly like shorts. Besides their people Goa and Kerala have a lot in common. Both have beautiful beaches, natural beauty, bustling and interesting towns and a perfect climate, when it is winter back home.

CAPE TOWN

The last time Pauline and I went for a holiday in South Africa our arrival into Johannesburg coincided with one of the country’s bleakest days in history 16th June 1976. On that day just a few miles from Johannesburg the infamous Soweto riots occurred, when the teachers refused to teach in the Afrikaans language and the students rioted.

At that time we lived in Zambia about one thousand miles north of South Africa and we travelled blissfully unaware of the problems, with our children Lesley and Anthony who at that time were six and two years of age. Although we did not get caught up in the riots the full effects of the country’s draconian apartheid system was soon apparent to us. Quite frankly having lived in a black African country for two years then, we were appalled and we vowed not to go back to South Africa.

There is an old saying that time is a great healer. It is now more than ten years since the segregation of whites and non-whites the basics of the apartheid system was dismantled. So what did we find as we revisited South Africa at the end of January 2008? Well we arrived into Jan Smuts’s airport at Johannesburg just the same and I am delighted to say the atmosphere and ambience was so welcoming.

This time our stay in the city was quite brief but nevertheless it showed a city confident and vibrant unlike the nervous and tension on our last visit. We then flew to the southern tip of the African continent to the beautiful city of Cape Town which is dominated by the world famous Table Mountain. Our first sight of it looked like a table with a white cloth set for tea, but it looked better when we saw it the next day under a clear blue sky.

Table Mountain is the breathtaking backdrop and icon of Cape Town. In about ten minutes the Cableway takes you to the summit and on the way up and down, the cable car’s rotating floor ensures that everyone gets an all-round aerial view of the city. We stayed at the aptly named Extreme hotel. It was conveniently located only a few minutes by taxi from the Cableway.

It had several interesting and in some cases weird features. For instance as a Newcastle United fan for over sixty years obviously its black and white colour scheme appealed to me. In addition going up or down in the lift the painted walls gave a great impression of ascending and descending the nearby Table Mountain!

However, it was visiting the Smoking Room that gave us a jolt. Although we are non-smokers other guests had told us to go there. Once inside you were confronted with white leather seats shaped like coffins. Sitting on one of them and then looking up provided the shock. The ceiling was painted as if people were looking into your grave!

Back to the real Table Mountain, from the summit on a clear day, as it was on the day we were there, inspiring views led us to visit some of the city such as the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. The V and A as it is affectionately known is a stunning shopping and entertainment environment. It is from the Clock Tower Precinct there that ferries depart for Robben Island.

The ferry takes about thirty minutes and Robben Island is where the former South African President and Nobel Laureate Nelson Mandela along with many other political prisoners were held for over twenty years. In 1999 the UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee marked the island for its triumph of human spirit and declared it a World Heritage site. Interestingly the guides there were former political prisoners.

Quite a contrast to that visit was our trip to Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It is world renowned for its beauty and diversity of Cape flora displays. The gardens with over five thousand varieties, also have the benefit of its magnificence of the setting being against the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. The calm and serenity of them were awesome.

Back in central Cape Town another area worth visiting is The Bo-Kaap also known as the historical Malay quarter with its lovely picturesque cobbled streets and brightly coloured terraced houses nestled in the lap of Signal Hill. The Bo-Kaap museum, housed in an old Cape Dutch house depicts the community’s history. In that area is another of the city’s traditions dating back to the 19th Century, the firing of the Noon Day Gun, which is fired from the Lion Battery on Signal Hill.

Another museum which left a lasting impression on us was The District Six Museum. That is a place of heritage and memory and offers the history and dedication to around 150,000 people, mostly Coloureds and Africans who were forcefully removed in 1966, because the then ruling National Party declared it A White. Group Area

Away from the city we had a great trip down to Cape Point a narrow finger of land surrounded by picturesque bays and beaches. It had the Indian Ocean on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. Cape Point is the south westernmost tip of Africa and forms part of the Table Mountain National Park, which stretches from Signal Hill in Cape Town right down to the point.

Our journey there and back compares with any we have done in the world. Heading south down the Indian Ocean side we had several enjoyable stops notably at Simon’s Town the former British naval base and Boulders Beach famous for its fascinating African penguin colony.

While down there we visited also Cape Agulhas, the continent’s most southerly point, in the Good Hope section of the Table Mountain National Park. That is where the two oceans meet and surprise to say their meeting was a non-event. Instead of the expected raging seas it was as smooth as a mill pond! However, one has to say that from the top of the lighthouse there were more magnificent views to enjoy.

Our return journey to Cape Town up the Atlantic seaboard was also most enjoyable especially driving Chapman’s Peak reputed to be the world’s most scenic drive. We enjoyed also having more stops at the quiet harbour and bay area of Hout Bay, watching the surfers at Llandudno, and the lovely spacious beach of Camps Bay.

Finally I have to say that after over a thirty years gap, our second visit to South Africa was memorable for the right reasons and a great delight and Cape Town became one of my favourite cities in the world.

COCHIN

Cochin which is now also known locally as Kochi is now popularly known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea. It is a lovely seaside city which is flanked by the Arabian Sea on its west and the imposing mountains of the Western Ghats on the east. In between the sea and the mountains there was much to admire both ancient and modern

Historically the city then known as Kochi became the first of the European colonies when it was occupied by the Portuguese in 1503. Later it was occupied by the Dutch and the British and our heritage walk provided many interesting aspects of the city’s chequered history.

That walk took us through an old Portuguese settlement which was situated on the FortKochi/Mattancherry peninsular, which was where we saw the fantastic cantilevered Chinese Fishing Nets, the magnificent Mattancherry Palace, the beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica and the Jewish Synagogue, the oldest one in the whole of India.

Those Chinese Fishing Nets were the legacy of the first visitors to the Malabar Coast and were erected between 1350 and 1450. Up to twenty feet high they were set up on teak wood and bamboo poles and were best viewed from Vasco da Gamma square a narrow promenade which ran along the beach. However, as it was lunch time we were tempted by the fishermen’s sign You buy and we fry and the freshly caught fish was delicious!

Just a few minutes walk away were the Mattancherry Palace also known as the