Pattern Making for Dressmaking and Needlework

By Emily Wallbank

Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Sep 16, 2016
• ISBN: 9781473355279

Book preview

PATTERN MAKING

FOR DRESSMAKING

AND NEEDLEWORK

BY

EMILY WALLBANK

FORMERLY HEAD OF NEEDLEWORK DEPARTMENT, NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL OF COOKERY AND OTHER BRANCHES OF DOMESTIC ECONOMY

AND

MARIAN WALLBANK

FORMERLY HEAD OF NEEDLEWORK DEPARTMENT, F. L. CALDER COLLEGE OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE, LIVERPOOL

PREFACE

THE aim of this book is to meet the need of the many teachers and students of the subject for up-to-date, reliable, and satisfactory methods of making patterns for present-day garments.

An important feature of the book is the presentation of the method of drafting proportionate patterns, the quarter bust measurement being used as a basis. The method of pattern making from direct measurement is also included, so that either may be used as a basis for the various garments. The method of cutting blouses, frocks, etc., from a block bodice is described.

It is sometimes convenient to make the pattern of an undergarment without previously drafting the bodice. To meet this need the patterns of women’s undergarments have been shown as separate drafts, but if preferred they can, of course, be cut from the bodice block.

Provision for irregular figures—such an important matter in the making of a frock—has also been considered.

It has been the aim throughout to keep the directions as simple as possible and yet make them adequate to all requirements.

In this edition opportunity has again been taken to revise both text and illustrations in order to bring them thoroughly up to date.

E. W.

M. W.

CONTENTS

PREFACE

THE RAGLAN-MAGYAR TYPE FROM BODICE BLOCK

THE RAGLAN

THE MAGYAR

BODICE BLOCK DRAFTED TO QUARTER BUST PROPORTIONS

SIMPLE BODICE BLOCK FOR CHILDREN AND GIRLS

BODICE BLOCK FOR ADULT FIGURES

ADAPTATIONS OF PATTERN FOR IRREGULAR FIGURES

BODICE BLOCK FROM DIRECT MEASUREMENTS

ADAPTATION OF BODICE BLOCK TO VARIOUS STYLES AND GARMENTS

BLOUSES FOR ADULT FIGURES

SIMPLE BLOUSES FOR SLIGHT FIGURES

WAISTCOATS OR SLEEVELESS COATS

COAT OVERALLS

OVERALL FOR SLIGHT GIRLISH FIGURE

OVERALL FOR AVERAGE ADULT FIGURE

THE CUTTING OF FROCKS

FROCK FOUNDATION

PRINCESS SLIP OR PETTICOAT

THE ONE-PIECE FROCK

FROCK WITH WAIST SEAM

METHOD OF CUTTING ARMHOLE FOR SLEEVELESS FROCKS

SLEEVES

BISHOP’S SLEEVE

SHIRT SLEEVE

CLOSE-FITTING SLEEVE

COAT SLEEVE

SKIRTS

CIRCULAR SKIRT CUT IN ONE PIECE

GORED SKIRT WITH INSET PANEL

FLARED PANEL FOR SKIRT OR DRESS

PLAIN GORED SKIRT

SPORTS SKIRT WITH PLEATS

THE WRAP-OVER SKIRT

PATTERNS BASED ON THE CIRCLE

UNDERGARMENTS—THE MAGYAR TYPE

NIGHTGOWN

OVERALL

DRESSING-GOWN

DRESSING-JACKET

DRESSING-GOWN WITH SET-IN SLEEVES

PETTICOATS

PRINCESS PETTICOAT

PETTICOAT WITH WAIST SEAM AND DART

CAMISOLE

NIGHTGOWNS

PRINCESS NIGHTGOWN

YOKED NIGHTGOWNS

NIGHTGOWNS WITH WAIST SEAM: EMPIRE AND BODICE

PUFFED SLEEVE

WOMAN’S KNICKERS

DIRECTOIRE

FRENCH

KNICKERS LINING

CAMI-KNICKERS

PYJAMA COAT FOR WOMEN AND GIRLS

PYJAMA COAT FOR MEN AND BOYS

PYJAMA TROUSERS

SHORTS FOR SPORTS WEAR

1. PLAIN SHORTS

2. PLEATED SHORTS

3. CULOTTE SKIRT

PATTERN MAKING FOR DRESSMAKING AND NEEDLEWORK

The Raglan-Magyar Type from Bodice Block

THE pattern represents a quarter of the garment; when cutting-out fold the material lengthwise, then across the width, and place pattern to the folds.

1. The Raglan

THIS is a well-fitting pattern used for blouses and bodices of frocks. It is a standard style, with the fullness of the side dart removed to the shoulder yoke. Fastenings would be allowed as necessary.

For the blouse, if fullness at the waist is fashionable, more width and depth of pouch may be given.

The pattern is gained from the two-piece bodice block. (See Figs. 5 or 9.)

MEASUREMENTS

Average size—

PATTERN (Fig. 1)

Place the shoulders of the block pieces 1 1/4 in. apart, outline the back piece and the upper portion of the front piece.

BACK

A = 1/2 in. to left from the back shoulder of the block: rule a line from A 5 in. long and parallel with the shoulder of block, mark B.

C = 1/2 in. out from underarm point and 1/2 in. down or as low as desired armhole. Curve from B to C and round off the corner of the yoke.

At the side, rule a line from C parallel with block.

At the waist, allow pouch 3/4 in. at side and 1/4 in. at back.

FRONT

A, depth of yoke = 3 in. below shoulder of block.

B = 5 in. from A and 2 3/4 in. below