Military Dress: Drafts of Mess Jackets, Military Mess Dress Regulations, Military Garments, Naval Uniforms - A Tailor's Guide

By A. S. Bridgland

This vintage book contains a detailed guide to the designing and making of historical military clothing, with instructions for making mess jackets, naval informs, and a variety of other military articles. Including information on materials and tools, this step-by-step manual will be of utility to those wishing to recreate vintage military clothing, and will also be of value for research purposes. Contents include: “Dressmaking and Tailoring”, “Drafts of Mess Jackets”, “Military Mess Dress Regulations”, “Military Garments”, and “Naval uniforms”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on dressmaking and tailoring.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Apr 16, 2013
• ISBN: 9781447483861

Book preview

DRAFTS OF MESS JACKETS

By GEORGE BALLINGALL

(Managing Director of Hawkes & Co., Ltd., Military Tailors, Savile Row, London, W.)

THE following drafts illustrate the cutting of mess jackets for the Infantry and the Artillery. The regulations for the Infantry are: Scarlet cloth, roll collar; pointed cuffs, 6″ deep at the point and 2 3/4″ behind; four small buttons and button-holes down the front. Shoulder straps 1 1/2″ wide at the base, tapering to about 1″ at the points, fastened with a small button. The shoulder straps to be sewn in at the shoulder.

The regulations for the Artillery are: Blue cloth, with blue cloth step collar and scarlet corded silk facings on the lapel. Four small ball buttons down each side of the front. Round cuffs of blue cloth, 2 3/4″ deep, welted at the top and fitted with a three-pointed flap of the same material 5 1/2″ deep, welted at the outside edges, three small ball buttons and false buttonholes. Shoulder straps of blue cloth, 1 1/2″ wide at the base, tapering to about 1″ at the points; fastened with small ball buttons; the shoulder straps to be sewn in at the shoulder. Badges of rank in metal, buttons with mounted design. No collar badges.

The measures are: 36″ breast; 32″ waist; 8 3/4″ depth of scye; 17 1/2″ natural waist; 21″ full length; 6 3/4″ across back; 31 1/2″ length of sleeve; 8 1/4″ across chest; 13″ front shoulder; 17″ over-shoulder.

SECTION A. INFANTRY MESS JACKET. Diagram 10

To reproduce, draw line 0, 4.

2 from 0, depth of scye, 8 3/4″.

1 from 0, half depth of scye plus 1/2″, 4 7/8″.

3 from 0, natural waist length, 17 1/2″.

4 from 0, full length, 21″.

Square lines from these points.

5 from 0 is one-sixth of scale less 1/4″, 2 3/4″.

From 5 mark up 3/4″ and curve back neck.

6 from 3 is 1″.

Draw the back from 0 through 1/2 and 6 to 7.

10 from 6 is 1 1/2″.

DIAGRAM 10.

8 from 7 is also 1 1/2″.

9 from 8 is 1″.

14 from point 1/4 is the width of back plus 1/4″ for one seam only, as the back is cut on the crease.

15 is one-sixth of scale from 14; also square down to 18.

16 from 15 is 3/4″.

Connect 16 with 14 and draw back shoulder seam.

DIAGRAM 11.

11 from 1/2 is 3 1/2″; side seam of back may now be completed.

12 from 10 is 1 1/2″.

13 is obtained by using 14 as a pivot and sweeping from 9.

33 from 11, for the width of side-body at breast, is 1/4 scale, 4 1/2″.

27 from 12, for the width of side-body at waist, is 1/4 scale less 1″, 3 1/2″.

28 from 27 is 1 3/4″.

26 from point 1/2 is half breast plus 2″, 20″.

20 from 26 registers the across chest measure, 8 1/4″.

Square up from 20, 1 1/2″.

22 is obtained by sweeping the front shoulder measure 13″, less width of back neck from 0 to 5, from 20.

Add 1″ and sweep again from 26.

The point at which these sweeps intersect locates the neck-point at 22.

21 is obtained by sweeping the over-shoulder measure 17″, less the distance from 1/2 to 17 on back, from 20.

21 from 22 is 1/4″ less than back shoulder from 16 to 3/4.

Rule a line from 21 to 1 1/2 and hollow 1/2″.

19 from 33 is about 1″.

29 from 27 is 1 1/4″.

30 from 29 is 2″.

31 is fixed by measuring up waist from 6 to 10, 12 to 27, and 29 to front, adding 1/2″ to half-waist measure, totalling 16 1/2″.

23 from 22 is one-sixth of scale.

24 from 23 is one-sixth of scale plus 1 1/2″, 4 1/2″.

Draw a line from 23 through 24 and 26 to 31.

32 from 31 is 4 1/2″.

Rule a line from 29 to 32 and shape from 30 as shown.

25 from 24 is 1″.

33 from 26 is about 1 1/2″, or enough to allow the roll to make up about 3″.

A horizontal cut is taken out below points 26 and 33.

Also take a fish from the forepart at waist.

SECTION B. THE SLEEVE

Section B gives the sleeve.

To reproduce, draw line 0, 4.

1 from 0 is 5 1/2″.

2 from 1 is 9 3/4″.

3 from 1 is 19 1/2″.

4 from 3 is 1 1/2.″

Square lines from 0, 2, and 4.

7 from 0 is 9″.

6 is midway between 7 and 0, 4 1/2″.

8 from 7 is 1 1/2″.

Rule a line from 6 to 1 and add 7/8″ of round.

5 from 2 is 1″.

9 from 5 measures 7 3/4″.

10 from 3 measures 6 1/4″.

11 from 8 is 2″.

Rule a line from 1 to 11 and hollow 1″.

In drawing the hind-arm from 8 to 9, hollow 1/2″ as shown.

Cut the hind-arm of underside correspondingly round.

SECTION C. ARTILLERY MESS JACKET Diagram 11

Section C illustrates the front of the artillery mess jacket, the back and sides being cut the same as for infantry.

The custom has been to cut a separate lapel; but the latest plan, as here given, is to cut the lapel on.

A button stand must be allowed beyond points 31 and 32.

A cut is taken from the neck as indicated.

SECTIONS D AND E

Section D gives the cuff for the artillery jacket.

The cuff is formed or stitched.

The slashes are piped or stitched.

Section E indicates the shoulder strap.

Excluding the point, it is 5″ long, 1 3/4″ wide at the back, and 1″ in front.

MILITARY MESS DRESS REGULATIONS

THE varieties of Mess Dress are numerous, and although there is what is known as the Universal Service Pattern,