Guide to men's tailoring, Volume 2: How to tailor a jacket

By Sven Jungclaus

Step by step to a handmade men's jacket. Hundreds of steps and thousands of hand stitches are necessary before you hold a finished men's jacket in your hands. The trick is to follow the correct order of the individual steps and combine traditional and modern processing methods. As in the first volume of our men's tailoring books, "How to make shirts, trousers, and vests", step-by-step instructions in this book with numerous photos and drawings lead safely through the fittings to the finished garment. Detailed explanations ensure that you always keep an overview. This book is intended for advanced users with a few years of sewing practice. But even beginners can make use of the know-how of individual chapters. The way to the finished jacket is not short - but with the help of the tips and tricks from master tailor Sven Jungclaus and a little practice, first sewing successes can be achieved quickly ...

• Language: English
• Publisher: Books on Demand
• Release date: Apr 13, 2021
• ISBN: 9783753433325

Sven Jungclaus

Sven Jungclaus completó su formación como sastre de señora y caballero en los años 90 con Heinz-Josef Radermacher en Düsseldorf. Ya entonces trabajó para producciones musicales como Grease y Forever Plaid en Düsseldorf o La Bella y la Bestia y La Danza de los Vampiros en Stuttgart. Tras ocho años en la Ópera Estatal de Baviera en Múnich como sastre de caballero y maestro de batas de caballero, perfeccionó sus conocimientos en la Royal Shakespeare Company de Stratford upon Avon, la Deutsche Oper am Rhein de Düsseldorf y el Festival de Salzburgo. Desde marzo de 2013, confecciona prendas a medida para hombre y mujer en su taller de confección de Salzburgo. Además, el polifacético sastre trabaja repetidamente para el taller de vestuario Das Gewand de Düsseldorf y es solicitado para producciones de ópera o musicales -por ejemplo, para la Metropolitan Opera de Nueva York, la Nationalsje Opera de Bergen, el Theater Basel, el Musical Chicago de Stuttgart y Berlín, Het Muziektheater de Ámsterdam, el Festival de Salzburgo o el Theater of Nations de Moscú. Website: https://www.becomeatailor.com

Book preview

Table of Contents

Preface

Tools for sewing

The basic hand stitches

The jacket for the first fitting

Cutting

Extras

Tailor tacking

Pressing

Cutting the canvas

Basting the canvas

Pad-stitching the canvas

Basting the front

Preparing the neck and the vents

Basting the jacket for the first fitting

Preparing the shoulder pads

Pad-stitching the undercollar

Basting the sleeves into the armhole

The jacket for the second fitting

Sewing the front edge and the lapel

Sewing the welted chest pocket

Sewing the jetted pockets with flap

Cutting the lining

Sewing the back lining

Sewing the lining pockets

Basting the lining

Closing the sideseams

Closing the shoulder seams

Attaching the shoulder pads

Attaching the undercollar

Re-marking the armholes

Basting the sleeves into the armhole

Finishing the jacket

Preparing the undercollar

Attaching the collar

Sewing the collar

Sink-stitching the edges and fell-stitching the lining

Preparing the armhole

Pressing the jacket

Preparing the sleeve hem

Cutting the sleeve lining

Sewing the sleeves

Sewing the buttonholes for the sleeves

Pressing the sleeves

Sewing the sleeves into the armhole

The finished jacket

Appendix

Sewing buttonholes

Armhole template

Shoulder-seam template

Undercollar template

Top-collar template

Index

Dealers and manufacturer list

Practice creates masters ...

The making of a jacket is the supreme discipline in tailoring. It takes practice to complete this garment successfully. In men's tailoring, hardly anything is as complex and ornate to manufacture as a jacket. The challenge lies not only in the multitude of work steps but above all in the countless possibilities to make life unnecessarily difficult through inaccurate work. Therefore, working accurately is much more important than being fast - because the later an error is discovered, the more laborious it takes to rectify. Attentive serenity brings more here than headless hectic.

Take courage!

It is important not to be discouraged by small setbacks and conscientiously practice every step until it works smoothly. An apprentice tailor makes hundreds of buttonholes, jetted pockets and alike during training until everything looks even, tidy and perfect. Only at the end of the training, when everything has been learned and internalized over the years, the tailor's apprentice is allowed to dare to make a complete jacket on his own.

The whole counts

A jacket is not just about the craft and its perfection, but also about the proportions. This requires a good eye and many years of experience. It makes a difference how wide a lapel is, how the pocket position was defined, how long a jacket is or how high a gorge seam lies.

Think three-dimensionally

Good imagination and three-dimensional thinking will help in tailoring. This makes shoulder processing, attaching the collar or inserting the sleeves easier. Besides, large parts of the work process are about sewing from the left and folding over to the right.

Read first - then get started ...

Each chapter in this book contains individual steps; their order is important for success. Therefore, it is helpful to first deal with the respective topic, reading the entire chapter and internalizing it theoretically. Only then does it make sense to venture into practice. Anyone who overlooks a work step could almost end up despairing because everything has to be separated again. Let me guide you step by step through the process of making your jacket ...

In this sense: Have fun, patience and success while tailoring!

Sewing tools

Buttonhole spring punch

Phillips screwdriver

Clothes brush

Gauge

Pins

Sewing needles

Bonefolder

Awl

Basting thread

French chalk

Sublimating chalk

Tape measure

Waist tape measure

Thimble

Scissors

Shears

Chalk sharpener

Pinking shears

Useful tools

Small french curve

Big french curve

Armhole template

Armhole curve

Undercollar template

Top-collar template

Shoulder-seam template

Various cardboard templates

The ironing tools

Sleeve board

Torso pressing pad

Shoulder pressing pad

Ironing board for edges (clapper)

Steam iron

Spray bottle

Heavy dry iron

Ironing cloth

Beeswax

Tailor tacking part 1

This transfers the chalk marks to the right side of the fabric and the other piece of cloth. First, loosely pinch with a double thread and cut open the stitches.

Basting

For a quick connection, fixing and securing of 2 or more layers of cloth.

Fell-stitch

For sewing in the lining. But it can also be useful in other places.

Tailor tacking part 2

Then carefully cut between the pieces of cloth. At the end, cut off the protruding threads.

Pad-stitch

For a permanent connection of 2 or more layers of cloth and canvas. Mainly used for the canvas itself (horsehair), undercollar and lapels.

Backstitch

For elastic seams such, e.g. the buttocks seam. But can also be used for all other seams, if you want to do it without the sewing machine.

Prick-stitch

Is often used as decorative stitching for sewing in the lining. Unlike sink stitching, a nodule should be visible.

Carefully