Islands of the South Pacific: Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, the Marquesas, the Cook Islands, Tonga & Beyond

By Thomas Booth

Tahiti is one of the Society Islands which, with the Gambiers, the Tuamotus, the Australs, and the Marquesas, make up French Polynesia. This archipelago spread out over several million square miles of the south central Pacific is a mixture of high volcani

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Jul 5, 2012
• ISBN: 9780935161977

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Islands of the South Pacific: Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, the Marquesas, the Cook Islands, Tonga & Beyond

Thomas H. Booth

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

INTRODUCTION 

Most atlases concentrate on the large land masses around the Pacific Rim and give short shrift to the thousands of islands scattered across the Pacific. Only the mounted globe on its pedestal gives a clear impression of the enormous size of this area. Even then you've got to have sharp eyes and a good light to find the Cooks, Tonga, Vanuatu, and the Solomons, to say nothing of Kapingamarangi, Mauke, Funafuti, or the Trobriands. 

There are, of course, such well-known tourist destinations as Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji, and perhaps New Caledonia. Most of the other islands, if their names are known at all, are seen as virtually inaccessible to all but the most dedicated adventurer. Even the most experienced independent travelers interested in the rich variety of island cultures have been a little skeptical about setting out for the Solomons, Micronesia, Tonga, or Papua New Guinea. 

But this is changing, and we hope this book makes it clear that the islands of the Pacific - Polynesia, Melanesia, and Micronesia - are comfortably accessible. Major airlines go to the administrative centers of nearly all these groups and, once there, domestic sea and air services open up the most remote outer areas. 

Facilities range from acceptable to excellent, people are friendly, English is widely spoken and, other than malaria in parts of Melanesia (preventable by prophylactic medication), there are few health problems. Happily too, the US dollar remains reasonably strong against most island currencies and, except for French Polynesia or perhaps New Caledonia, there are surprising travel bargains in the Pacific. 

The US dollar is the most easily converted currency in the world, whether in cash or traveler's check. And you'll be surprised at how many places off the beaten path will quickly accept credit cards. In reporting prices, we consider the current exchange rate and quote costs in US dollars. 

Getting There 

By Sea - There is nothing quite like standing on the deck of a ship watching your first Pacific island change from a smudge on the horizon to solid reality. Unfortunately, if cruise ships aren't for you, you'll find that getting passage on a freighter is difficult. Most freight lines would rather load on a few more containers and forget about passengers. The only ships which may still carry passengers into the further reaches of the Pacific are a few French cargo vessels that call at East Coast US ports before heading for the South Pacific via Panama. To find a freighter, a good source is Freighter World Cruises Inc. Their US phone is 626-449-3106 They can also assist in arranging passage on the splendid Aranui, the ship that sails from Papeete to the Tuamotus and Marquesas. From Japan, Carolineship and Tiger Lines go into Micronesia (see the chapter on Micronesia). 

There are travel agencies specializing in this sort of sea venture. Try: Pearl's Freighter Tips, 175 Great Neck Rd., Suite 306F, Great Neck, NY 11021. On the West Coast try: Maggi Horn, 601 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108. 

Then of course there are berths on private yachts and, judging from the number of yachts seen all over the Pacific, a chance to crew is a possibility. You've got to have plenty of time, though, and a modicum of experience to become a shareexpense crew member. To further this possibility, read the classifieds in yachting magazines, and visit the big yacht clubs on the West Coast - particularly in Hawaii. 

By Air - First do some homework on the places you want to go, then choose a travel agent not preoccupied with cruises and collective touring. Find someone patient and tolerant enough to get the best deals on Advance Purchase Tickets, Circle Pacific Tickets (which allow multiple stopovers) or Seasonal Round Trip Economy Fares. A good agent can do all this, plus take advantage of current airline price wars, and can help you with such technical questions as minimum stopover clauses and bargain seats that are rarely available. 

Consider starting from Hawaii. Get the first scent of the tropics in Honolulu. Prepare yourself for the deep Pacific by visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center and the Bishop Museum. Then, because Hawaii is the "Gateway to the Pacific;' check out the travel options from there. 

In Hawaii if you go to Hawaiian Airlines with Tonga and both Samoas in mind, or visit Continental's Air Micronesia for travel to Micronesia, you may pick up the low fare tickets that returning islanders get. 

For other destinations, and especially for complicated multiple-stopovers, a well-chosen travel agent at home is best. 

World War II and the Navy ship USS Acontius first brought me to the Pacific islands. It was, however, not a time of sloth, languid days at sea, or idly wandering the beaches. But I saw my first coconut palm then, I saw islanders with bones in their noses, and reefs with water clear as gin. It was heady stuff and I was profoundly affected. 

Since then Virginia and I have been back 10 times and I'm still deeply affected. I'm a little more discriminating though and some islands, like human beings, are more appealing than others. Still they're all old friends, and we'd like to make some of them yours. 

FRENCH POLYNESIA 

Tahiti

Tahiti is one of the Society Islands which, with the Gambiers, the Tuamotus, the Australs, and the Marquesas, make up French Polynesia. This archipelago spread out over several million miles of the south central Pacific is a mixture of high volcanic islands and low coral atolls. 

Tahiti, the biggest island in French Polynesia, has the most magical name in the South Pacific and with good reason. Papeete, her principal port, shares this distinction and for years Tahiti has been considered an island where land and sea are bountiful, the girls sensual, and the French administration casually tolerant. 

All sorts of people have been attracted to Tahiti - drifters, yachtsmen, writers, artists, explorers - legions of them whose names span more than 200 years. There were Captains Cook, Bougainville, and Bligh; the artists Gauguin and Matisse; Thor Heyerdahl; and writers Nordhoff and Hall, Frisbie, O'Brien, Stevenson, Loti, Brooke and Maugham. There were scores of sturdy yachtsmen, and they still come. But Tahiti is not what it once was. 

Tahiti

The change was inevitable. An island that beautiful becomes a magnet. And when an international airport was constructed in 1959, the tourists poured in by the thousands. Now on Bora Bora, Moorea and Tahiti there are big hotels, condominiums, expensive restaurants, cruise ships, and with all the metropolitan implications, Papeete with a population of 80,000 is a city. But Tahiti's burgeoning wasn't all born of the tourist industry. There's another reason. The French conducted 196 nuclear tests on the nearby Tuamotan atoll of Mururoa. To administer such activities 25,000 Frenchmen were brought in, and brought Parisian style and Parisian economy. Then too, there was the French Navy and elements of the Foreign Legion, to say nothing of their dependents. 

Because of the testing, harmony in the Pacific suffered. New Zealand and Australia weren't enthusiastic, and there were even some French in Tahiti who protested and claim deteriorating health for nearby Polynesians. Greenpeace has been heard of in this area too. Their ship was even sunk in New Zealand, and one of the crew killed by dirty trick specialists from France. 

The testing stopped in 1996 though, when France signed a test ban treaty. In spite of all this, the beauty of Tahiti and her adjacent islands is undisputed, and Papeete with its verve is a town to behold. 

But, for those of us who cling to the purity of free and independent travel;' French Polynesia poses some problems. Arrival at Faa`a International Airport will require a $10 taxi ride into Papeete, four miles away. Hotels will run from cheapies" of $60 to $375-plus 7% tax. And a cold beer in the sleaziest of bars is at least $4. Expect to pay about $10 for a continental breakfast, $15 for lunch, and $30 for dinner with wine, per person. 

Everything is expensive in Tahiti, and there is no way I can think of to remain an individual traveler and not spend a bundle. So I reluctantly defer to the pre-planned, prepurchased tour. Why bother trying to find adventure on your own when you see ads that promise, A week in solitary, $798. Escape from crowds and traffic. Escape for a week to Tahiti. Where the world leaves you alone. Catch a UTA flight from Los Angeles and you'll be in Tahiti in 7112 hours. $798 includes round trip airfare, and six nights land arrangements per person, double occupancy. Or, 9 days, 3 islands - Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea in top hotels $1,798 per person. 

On the other hand, and with high adventure in mind, fire off some letters to shipping agencies in Papeete and ask about trading vessel voyages to the Marquesas and Tuamotus. Then time yourself to a couple of days in Papeete before pushing off to the remote non-tourist