BOARDS
What came first, Chicken Joe or the egghead? You know what I mean: board or rider, shaped or shaper? Since surfing’s beginning, have we been stuck in a time loop?
Boards. We shape them. They shape us. We shape them. They shape us. We shape them—this could lead to boardom.
Even when surfboards are retired, and their famous (or infamous) riders have returned to the ground, their sleds continue to influence us. Is it the boards themselves? In the Gold Coast’s Surf World museum, we can touch MP’s
