Chicago Tribune

Editorial: Don’t write off fake meat just yet

Dominique Leach, executive chef and owner of Lexington Betty Smokehouse, slices brisket at her One Eleven Food Hall location on 111th St. in Chicago's Pullman neighborhood on Wednesday, Feb. 12, 2020.

At Alef Sausage in north suburban Mundelein, owner Marina Mikhaylova makes cold cuts the old-fashioned Ukrainian way, using traditional ingredients like beef and pork. As for vegetarian options, she says, “We don’t do anything plant based. People stopped buying it.”

The boom in meat alternatives has fizzled, for multiple reasons. For starters, the marketing efforts behind some prominent brands backfired by scolding the carnivores among us, who far outnumber the vegans.

At the same time, Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis and other red-meat-loving

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