Mambow, Clapton, review: A fiery tribute to a lesser known cuisine
by Hannah Twiggs
Jan 04, 2024
5 minutes
I often claim to fellow journalists that I start writing these reviews in the middle. If I start with what I remember most, the food, the vibes, the weather (bitter cold and drizzly), a witty intro will surely come naturally. Write what you know, after all. Others, aghast, tell me they’ve already got an opening line in mind as soon as they’ve tapped the card machine. So it will come as a surprise to us both that today I am starting at the end.
When I spy pandan crepes on the menu at newly opened in Clapton, the new forever home of -based Malaysian chef Abby Lee’s pre-pandemic pop-up in Peckham, it’s a race to the finish. I cannot not leave room I declare to my prone-to-overordering date. I
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