Tomorrow, we sail for Greenland.
is parked in St. John’s, Newfoundland, along the bulkhead of the enormous fishing and commercial harbor, tucked as far into the southwest corner as you can get. It’s an industrial place—black, gravelly street grit covers the deck, with no dockside water to wash it off. A couple boat lengths away, a large container loading terminal is bustling with cranes and ships and trucks zooming around at all hours of the day and night. A French steel boat is rafted next to us; in front, a