SCALLION OIL NOODLES 0are a Shanghainese staple that are happily enjoyed in many environments: They are inhaled beside street carts, slurped up at fancy restaurants, and tossed together at home. The simple dish’s mass appeal, which gains more traction every day in the United States, comes as no surprise; springy noodles dressed with a combination of aromatic oil, rich soy sauce, and sugar form a whole that is far greater—and tastier—than the sum of its parts.
To better understand the global craze, I consulted my colleague Valerie Sizhe Li, who devoured countless
