Kamayan is a quintessential Filipino tradition. Dating back to pre-colonial times, the practice of eating with one’s hands is truly an art form. From setting the table with banana leaves, garlic rice, barbecued pork, grilled fish, salted eggs, fresh fruits, sawsawan (condiments) and other gustatory bounties, to honing the skill required to form your perfect pyramid-shaped mouthful, this time-honoured ceremony is a rite of passage emblematic of Philippine values.
This style of eating became all the more ritualistic around the Second World War. Armed with well-endowed appetites, fatigued army men would gather around the table to partake in a kamayan feast or “boodle fight”, as American soldiers called it. “It represents that we’re all equal,” reflects chef JP Anglo. “After a battle, they all stand around the table and eat together, as one. Bossing ka man, or dishwasher, general or petty officer, when we eat around a boodle fight, we’re all the same. Food is the common denominator.”
“The boodle fight tradition holds cultural importance and feast photographed for this story. “It brings people together in a shared feast, irrespective of social status or position. The act of eating with hands promotes solidarity and a sense of togetherness, emphasising the value of simplicity and a connection to Filipino roots.”
