MY WIFE AND I COULDN’T FIND out anything about the new place except that it was open on a Monday, and we were hungry. I was familiar with it only from a few dramatically lit shots on social media that had that whole “if Caravaggio were on Instagram” aesthetic. I couldn’t tell if its name, Warlord, was ironic or in earnest, or if it signaled the presence of gaming nerds or gun enthusiasts. I couldn’t even find a menu. But the Avondale restaurant, which had opened less than a month earlier, in April, seemed intriguing.
We lucked into a corner table in the no-reservations dining room, adjusted to the soft-glow
