Wine Enthusiast Magazine

The Weird, Wild and Wonderful World of American Brandy

Once a year, Baltimore Spirits takes an attention-grabbing approach to dispatching an abundance of Maryland apples into apple brandy. Inspired by the harvest celebration of Mexico’s pechuga mezcal, raw apples are swept with smoke, then distilled with foraged pawpaw, persimmon and black walnut. For the final distillation, a 30-pound Maryland country ham is suspended in the still above the pot, for a distinct “prosciutto-y” salinity, explains cofounder Max Lents.

“It’s a completely insane thing to do—hanging hams in your still,” Lents acknowledges, “but the spirit wouldn’t be the same without it.”

Insane? Maybe. But it’s memorable—and that’s important.

Creative distilleries are shaking up the once-sleepy world of American brandy. Many are borrowing inspiration from ingredients and distilling

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