National Geographic Traveller Food

RESTAURANT ST BARTS

LONDON • RESTAURANT-STBARTS.CO.UK

St Barts is a challenging restaurant, and the first challenge is finding it. It manages to confuse Google Maps and indeed potential diners, as there’s no discernible sign or any other indication that it is a restaurant. In fact, it looks rather like a block of flats. But not so once you’re inside — step through its doors and the first thing you see is executive chef Johnnie Crowe and his sous chef at work in a kitchen that isn’t so much open as part of the dining room itself.

It’s a small place — with just four tables in use on the Thursday lunchtime of our visit — but a pretty one, with vast picture windows looking

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