A GREAT WAY TO get to know a place is by sampling the street foods that locals eat as they go about their daily bustle. In New York, that might be a “dirty water” hot dog or in Mexico City, tacos al pastor. But in several countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, folks enjoy plates (or cones) of savory chickpea fries.
There are several versions of these flavorful fries, each with its own distinct personality. In Southern France, they’re called panisse and sold at seaside stands, where the batter is often molded in coffee saucers. In neighboring Liguria in Italy, they are called panissa’s neighbor in Boston, Chickadee.