cook like a local Tokyo

While the daylight shines on the Tokyo of the past, with its manicured gardens, temples and tea ceremonies, at night is when you see the Tokyo of today. Izakayas fire up their grills and the air fills with the aroma of meat searing over hot coals. There’s revelry in the air as salarymen and women congregate over tare-glazed chicken skewers, fresh sashimi and long-stewed miso beef. Another table crowds over a tabletop brazier, searing butter-soft wagyu before quenching in garlicky sesame oil, then devouring it between gulps of whisky highballs.

Another Tokyo staple is the convenience store. In Japan this means stepping into a world