Los Angeles Times

A strawberry pie for early spring

The arrival of strawberry season calls for a celebratory cold strawberry pie.

Although strawberries scream "summer" to most people, to me they carry a lot of BSE: Big Spring Energy. That's because growing up in the South, the first strawberries of the year hit markets in early March. And while those early-season berries weren't as sweet as those that came at the start of summer, I always loved them more. Their slightly sulphuric, sour flavor made them ideal for baking since it helped to cook them down with sugar so as to make them as candy-like as their late-season siblings.

The early-spring strawberries are now in Southern California, along with all the mania that manifests when everyone returns to a specific fruit at the perfect time of year to eat it. I mostly refuse to eat strawberries throughout the

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