WHETHER YOU GROW UP IN NEW ORLEANS or claim the city as yours—enchanted by its many quirks and patinas, excesses, and contradictions—anyone who comes here with an open heart and open mouth is often rewarded with indelible memories and unforgettable best bites. There’s something about the combination of heat and spices, live music, impromptu parades, and joyful communion that create an ineffable sweetness to keep you coming back for more.
On a recent return trip, flying low over blue tarps stretched across damaged rooftops from the most recent hurricane, the elderly passenger next to me, who hasn’t spoken much the entire flight, points out the window. “All that blue is a sign of strength,” she says and nods. “We get our share of disaster, baby, but we ain’t going nowhere.” She places a warm hand on my arm and sizes me up before leaning in as if to tell me a secret. “Have you had the bread pudding with hard sauce at Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe? Get yourself over there … nothing better.”
Everyone has an opinion about where to find the) or gumbo (). This is a city whose joys revolve around eating and drinking and where food is the great equalizer. Even my 5-year-old niece trusts her palate when it comes to choosing exceptional pastries and brunch (Nina Compton’s and ).
