PINOT NOIR
97 Hirsch 2019 Block 8 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a part of the estate planted in 1993 in iron-rich soils, this wine is powerfully graceful, delicate and complex. White pepper, stem and strong tannin structure provide a savory seriousness that is lifted and lengthened by intensively focused acidity and mineral-like wisps of stone and sea. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $105
96 Au Bon Climat 2019 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A lighter shade in the glass, this bottling from the vineyard that surrounds this winery pops on the nose with tart pomegranate, eucalyptus-leaf, crushed cement and forest-floor aromas. The palate is vivid with minty herbs that weave through the brisk raspberry flavors, as hints of game add to the complexity and arrive at a leathery finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
96 Hirsch This estate red, which opens in an array of salty stone, black tea and forest floor, is made from some of the highest elevation vineyards of the site. Spicy and feral, it unfurls slowly and deliberately to reveal delicately silky layers of rhubarb and wild strawberry that brighten and intrigue. —V.B.
