The renaissance of Oregon Chardonnay—and it is surely a renaissance—can be attributed to a number of factors coming together over time.
The first is time itself. It takes time to experiment with new clones, to plant in new vineyards and watch them mature. It also takes time to investigate new fermentation techniques, such as intentionally allowing the juice to oxidize (so-called black Chardonnay).
It’s important to factor in changing tastes as well. There will always be a place for ultraripe wines aged in heavily toasted new oak barrels, but few would contend that such wines are still mainstream. The current wave of wine influencers, such as sommeliers and critics, generally favor lower-alcohol, high-acid styles that pair well with food. Consumers are finding that these elegant Chardonnays offer more aromatic and textural pleasure than the old “clobber ’em with butter and oak” wines.
Consumers are finding that these elegant Chardonnays offer more aromatic and textural pleasure.
The spread of biodynamic and regenerative farming also contributes to the overall complexity