ELISABETH LUARD
DELI DELIGHTS
Welcome news in the depths of winter – a time when all sensible folk are considering hibernation till spring.
Deli specialist Glynn Christian, of mutiny-on-the-Bounty descent, has gathered between hard covers a lifetime’s knowledge of what to do with the little treats you’ve squirrelled away in the back of the cupboard.
Mr Christian’s encyclopedic doesn’t concern itself with recipes but provides everything you’ll ever need to know about larder stores. It’s all there, from beans to vinegars, by way of such esoteric treats as friar’s beard (a samphire lookalike recommended for seafood pasta); flying-fish caviar, iridescent green fish eggs much favoured in Japan; and freekeh, last year’s most fashionable grain food (wake up there at the back).
