Gourmet Traveller

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KYLIE KWONG

BILLY KWONG WAS AT THE HEIGHT OF ITS POPULARITY WHEN KYLIE KWONG DECIDED TO CLOSE THE RESTAURANT. AUSTRALIAN DINERS WERE BEREFT BUT FOR KWONG, IT CAME AS A RELIEF. HERE, SHE REFLECTS ON HOW SHE CAME TO THE DECISION – AND HOW IT LED TO HER NEW VENTURE, LUCKY KWONG, WHICH DEFIES THE RULES OF A TRADITIONAL RESTAURANT MODEL.

About a year and a half before I closed Billy Kwong, I started feeling disgruntled and restless. I’d had the restaurant since 2000 and for those 17 years, I’d always been a person who loved going to work. It was my own place; it was everything I loved doing. I was obsessed with it.

To start feeling disgruntled and restless with my business was a big deal for me – I know myself very well. I thought, “Oh, this is interesting.” I noticed myself having less energy when I thought about work and I started to feel like everything was a challenge.

My attitude started changing. The most telling piece, for about three months, I felt this inner restlessness and it was waking me up in the night. There was literally a lot of tossing and turning. I said to [my wife] Nell one night over dinner, “I think there’s a major shift happening inside.” And she said, “I know… why don’t you go and speak to Subhana about it.”

Subhana Barzaghi is my wonderful Buddhist teacher and has been a mentor to me for more than 20

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