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When it comes to opening shiny new restaurants, Neil Perry is a veteran. But this time, it’s different. Not only is Margaret in Sydney’s Double Bay his first independent venture, it’s a deeply personal one.

“The restaurant is named after my mum. It draws on her incredibly warm, loving and generous spirit,” says Perry. “It’s pretty well documented that my father had a massive impact on my cooking style, but my mum had a huge impact on my style as a restaurateur.”

More than a year in the making, Margaret was set to open its doors the same week Sydney entered its second lockdown. But when it does open, the wood-fired grill will be front and centre, under the watchful eye of executive chef Richard Purdue.

“There will be a major focus on seafood; we love cooking it and we get the best the country has to offer,” says Perry. “Richard and I have a very similar attitude towards food – it’s all about the quality of the ingredients.”

And although Margaret is pegged as a neighbourhood eatery, the fit-out is nothing short of world-class. “The design is the result of a unique collaboration between David Caon and ACME. There are lots of little touches that make it sophisticated and special but it still feels approachable and warm,” says Perry. “Margaret is a rebirth of sorts – for me and for the neighbourhood restaurant.”

Here, Perry shares recipes for some of the dishes we can expect to find on the menu.

30-36 Bay St, Double Bay, NSW, margaretdoublebay.com

Grilled miso-marinated squid with kimchi salad

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER //

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