A New Way with Lemonade
When I was a kid, my family made lemonade the old-fashioned way: We fetched a small cardboard canister from the freezer, peeled away the plastic tab, pried off the lid, and squeezed until a semisolid cylinder of concentrate dropped into the waiting pitcher with a satisfying schloop. After whisking in three cans’ worth of water, we were ready to pour it over ice and enjoy.
I was nearly an adult before I learned that there are methods for making lemonade that involve fresh fruit, and that good from-scratch versions boast a sweet-sour balance and faint bitterness that make lemonade not just refreshing but also complex. But until recently, I’d never made a batch that delivered on that nuance. Most of my previous attempts tasted either one-dimensional or excessively bitter.
It wasn’t until I literally took apart a lemon and tasted each component that I understood what accounts for the Goldilocks balance I sought (turns out there’s some
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