SPAIN

RIBERA DEL DUERO

94 Astrales 2017 Christina Colección Familiar (Ribera del Duero). Smoky, toasty black-fruit aromas are lightly charred but calm and stately. This has bounce to its step, but mostly the palate is dry, tannic and aggressive: an indication that this needs more time in bottle. Toasty blackberry flavors are backed by savory meatiness, while this shows chewy tannins on a warm finish with lots of depth. Best from 2023–2032. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $85

Blackberry and cassis aromas are accompanied by savory notes and leathery warmth. Going in. —M.S.