THE ITALIAN CHRISTMAS
Mario Matassa reveals the secrets of the Italian festive period. Though Christmas Day provides the climax of the occasion, the Christmas Eve feast provides the perfect opportunity to warm up for the big event.
Festive holidays are always special occasions in Italy, and none more so than Christmas. In a country where festivity and food are synonymous, the Italian Christmas is a two-day marathon with long-lasting meals of abundant and sumptuous proportions. Tradition is central, with dishes that are highly symbolic in terms of both religion and place.
Everyone has a favourite Christmas dish, without which Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas! Whatever your menu preferences, there’s something quite magical about food prepared at this time of year.
More than anything, the traditions that are served with the dish conjure memories. Whether it’s duck, goose, turkey or roast, the sights and smells emanating from the kitchen and the table bring back memories of good times gone and hope for those to come.
Last year, as the pasta was being served, I glimpsed my son sneaking struffoli from the serving dish. It made me laugh as it was something I remember doing myself when I was his age. Now I’m wondering if my parents had noticed me? And so it is, the traditions carry on!
CHRISTMAS EVE
CHRISTMAS DAY
CHRISTMAS EVE PRIMI
In Italy, the festivities begin with La Vigilia, Christmas Eve. Italians eat magro (‘lean’) on Christmas Eve, but to interpret this as ‘light’ is completely mistaken. (Since when have you heard of Italians eating light?) Rather, it just means no meat, but plenty of vegetables and fish.
The number of courses served tends to be symbolic – seven for the seven sacraments, 12 for the disciples, or 13, with Jesus; and the type of fish you eat depends on where you live. A firm favourite in the past was (eel), but tastes have changed and it is probably fair to say that today the preferred choice for or (salt cod or fresh cod) – though the cooking method will vary.
