Gourmet Traveller

Snacks by the sea

Before Una Más opened a year ago, Jordan Toft would visualise what was to become of the small, sectioned-off space sitting on the middle floor of Sydney’s Coogee Pavilion. “I always saw this space as that place where you walk off the beach with your linen shirt on and the top button undone; you’ve got the tote bag with your things in it, your slide-on shoes, and you kind of just slide on into Una Más,” says Toft, the restaurant’s executive chef. “I could imagine the table with a bit of food on it, and that bottle sitting there with a little bit of perspiration dripping from it; those whispers of smoke coming from the kitchen and the grilling on the Josper. That’s how I saw it. That’s how I felt it.”

Now, that vision has come to life. The buzzy eastern suburbs tapas-style bar is an ode to the Mediterranean, and the casual elegance that goes with it. Dishes are small, simple and reminiscent of tomato-topped pintxos in San Sebastián, seafood-driven meze in Greece, and vibrant Catalan-style snacks found on the backstreets of Barcelona.

“The menu is derived from a lot of different seaside locations, and was inspired by the

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