The Critic Magazine

Kitchen cabinet

IN WHAT MIGHT NOW BE reclassified as the first Great British Bake Off, King Alfred demonstrated his qualifications for kingship by an act of culinary desecration. Lambert Simnel was reputedly a “scullion” whose kitchen experience stamped him as an unacceptable aspirant to power.

Theresa May’s 150 cookery books failed to give her a recipe for government. She seems seriously to have picked up a skillet only when she laid down her last red box. Even then, reliance on

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