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  • Surfer

    Shane Dorian, 47

    May 29, 2020 3 minutes
    As told to JUSTIN HOUSMAN
    “Your source of stoke in surfing changes over time. For me, it’s not attached to riding the biggest wave or my year-end ratings anymore.”

    I don’t think I could ever do it as dramatically as Greg Noll, but it has occurred to me. Every winter I assess my mindset and wonder if this will be the year I’ll paddle out at Jaws and decide that that’s it, I don’t want anything to do with it anymore. Now that

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