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    Surfer1 min readPsychology
    The Greatest Escape
    Talk to virtually any mental health expert and they’ll bring up two of the easiest things to do to boost optimism, reduce stress and anxiety, and alleviate depression: Get outdoors and get some exercise. It’s really that simple. Surfing can be your t
    Surfer4 min read
    The Art of Being Seen
    Many surfers fetishize the past. We look at photos of uncrowded Malibu in the ‘50s, the Rincon cove before it was fronted by a six-lane highway, and think, “Yep, those were the days.” Even those of us who weren’t actually alive then—probably especial
    Surfer11 min read
    A Crooked Path
    Deep within the DNA of nearly every surf-board ever made, there has been a single unchanging rule: The Rule of Symmetry. It’s a sacrosanct law that has guided the hands and planers of board builders for the last hundred plus years of modern surfing.

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