BENEATH THE SURFACE

My two older brothers are bodyboarders and I followed in their footsteps from a young age, right through my teenage years. We would often go on reef missions up the coast around Bawley Point, throwing ourselves into the thickest barrels we could find.

I found I had enough courage to paddle in, but not quite enough skill to come out! The number of times I got squished onto a reef platform was truly ridiculous. In the end it took a fractured L3 vertebrae, commonly known as a broken back, to convince me that