THE MULTIPLIER EFFECT

I got heckled so bad growing up. I wasn’t part of the surfing clique on Maui, even though I was a surfer first. Maui is very windy, so I took up other sports that weren’t popular amongst my peers, like windsurfing, SUP, kiting. I was using those experiences to help propel my ability in traditional surfing. Even at my home break, I never felt comfortable. I felt like an outsider. But that gave me a sense of knowing who I really was as a person, and I didn’t mask it to fit in.

when I started catching bigger waves than them at Jaws. I was sitting deeper and there was no denying that I was willing to put myself into scary positions. But I don’t think about big wave acceptance any more. It’s