COPPOLA CLASSIC
It’s early spring and we’re driving from Rome to Bernalda to stay at Palazzo Margherita in the untouristy region of Basilicata, which is wedged between up-and-coming Puglia and Calabria in the arch of Italy’s shoe. As we drive into the sleepy hilltop town we realise that we don’t have the hotel’s address and no wi-fi to find it. It’s Sunday afternoon; everything is closed.
Perhaps the main appeal of Palazzo Margherita is that it doesn’t look or act
