Country Style

a christmas table

IN THE LIFE of a country restaurant, the lead up to Christmas Day is very busy, but the couple of weeks after are really, really busy as city folk take their annual leave in the country. So when it comes to Christmas Day with the family, I prefer it to be as relaxed and as simple as possible. In my family, we have a mix of meat eaters, pescatarians and vegetarians, so I try to provide something special for everyone. Personally, I can’t go past a majestic glazed ham. It always reminds me of Mum’s hams on Christmas Day. My glaze is made with Seville orange marmalade and orange juice, but you could add a slosh of whisky if you like. Ham is also great for feeding impromptu visitors. Slice and serve with fresh greens and boiled new potatoes.

For my vegetarians, I try to cook something ‘carvable’ that can be served with condiments and salads. This year, pumpkin and chestnut brioche Wellington is on the menu. The filling can be made a day or two ahead, and the Wellington itself baked hours in advance and served at room temperature or warmed through.

As a special Christmas treat, I splash out on good quality large prawns. My favourite way

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