Cook's Country

Carnitas

DESPITE WHAT MANY restaurant menus may lead you to believe, “carnitas” is not a catchall term for any pork taco filling. The chefs at Carnitas Uruapan in Chicago brought this into sharp focus on our recent visit, showing us their cooking technique, which makes use of an ingredient common in many traditional recipes: lard (see “Forty-Plus Years of Pork Perfection”). The rendered and clarified pork fat perfumed the air with a savory aroma and produced beautiful results.

At Carnitas Uruapan, cooks submerge chunks of well-marbled pork in a vat of hot lard. The heat from the

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