Cook's Country

Mexican Meatball Soup

BOLDLY SEASONED SOUPS are a mainstay of Mexican cuisine, and my personal favorite is meatball soup. The best versions I’ve encountered have featured tender, flavorful meatballs cooked in a complex broth spiked with chiles and herbs and grounded by the earthy flavor of toasted corn. Sounds delicious, right?

But when I prepared a sampling of recipes for this meatball-studded soup from a variety of Mexican cookbooks, my tasters and I were surprised by some glaring faults. The meatballs

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