The Rough Guide to Albania: Travel Guide eBook

By Rough Guides

Ideal for independent travellers, this guidebook to the Albania, written by destination experts, combines must-see sights with hidden gems and offers essential tips for both planning and on-the-ground adventures. 

Inside this Albania travel book, you'll find:

• Regional deep dive – coverage of key regions, offering a rich selection of places and experiences, and honest reviews of each one
• Itinerary samples – designed for various durations and interests
• Practical information – tips on how to get there and get around, use public transport, beat the crowds, save time and money, travel responsibly and more
• Expert recommendations – insider advice on where to eat, drink, and stay, alongside tips for nightlife and outdoor activities
• Seasonal tips – when to go to the Albania, climate details, and festival highlights to plan your perfect trip
• Must-See pick – a curated selection of not-to-miss sights as chosen by our authors - Tirana, Berat Castle, Ksamil, Gjirokastër, Butrint, Mount Dajti, Theth, Blue Eye, festivals, vineyards, white-water rafting the Vjosa River, Rozafa Castle
• Navigational maps – colour-coded maps highlighting essential spots for dining, accommodation, shopping and entertainment
• Cultural insights – engaging stories delve into the local culture, history, arts and more, enriching your understanding of the Albania
• Language essentials – a handy Albanian dictionary and glossary to help you communicate and connect with locals
• Inspiring travel photography – full-colour pictures capture the essence of the Albania, bringing each location to life and fuelling your wanderlust
• Coverage includes: Tirana, Berat and central Albania, Ksamil and the Albanian Riviera, Butrint and Southern Albania, Shkodër and northern Albania, Albanian Alps

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jun 1, 2025
• ISBN: 9781835293287

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Albania

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Sustainable travel

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Arrival

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Shopping

Travelling with children

Culture and etiquette

Travel essentials

Tirana and around

Skanderbeg Square and around

South of the Lana River

Beyond the city centre

Mount Dajti

Around Tirana

Kruja

The north

Shkodra

Kiri Valley

Lake Shkodra

The Albanian Highlands

Lezha

Shëngjini

Berati, Durrësi and Central Albania

Berati

Around Berati

Mount Tomorri

Osumi Canyon

Gramshi and the Devolli River valley

Holta Canyon

Grabova e Sipërme and the Valamara Mountains

Elbasani

Durrësi

North of Durrësi

South of Durrësi

Divjaka-Karavasta National Park

Korça and Southeast Albania

Korça

Shebeniku-Jabllanica National Park

Lake Ohrid

Prespa Lakes

Morava Mountain villages

The Voskopoja Highlands

Kolonja and Gramos Mountain

Southwest Albania

Gjirokastra

Around Gjirokastra: the Drino Valley

The Myzeqeja plain

Byllis

Tepelena and the Kurveleshi highlands

Fir of Hotova-Dangëllia National Park

The Albanian riviera

Vlora

Zvërneci

Vlora to Qeparoi

Orikumi

Orikumi to Himara

Himara

Himara to Saranda

Saranda

Around Saranda

South of Saranda

Contexts

Books

Language

Glossary

Small print

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Introduction to Albania

Over three decades after throwing off the chains of a particularly suffocating brand of communism, Albania is emerging as an intriguingly multifaceted Balkan travel destination. All but closed to foreigners for half of the twentieth century, this small country now beckons travellers to its world-class beaches, snow-dusted peaks, windswept fortresses and ancient ruins. Although many tourists come for a beach holiday on the riviera, there is more to Albania than its coastline: the country is steeped in culture and history, from Illyrian ruins to medieval castles, Ottoman-era mansions to museums documenting the long, grey years under iron rule. But the secret is out, so come soon.

From the snow-bound peaks of the Albanian Alps to the sun-bleached beaches braiding the Ionian and Adriatic coasts, this small Balkan nation has an astonishing variety of landscapes and experiences for travellers. From April to November, warm weather means you can enjoy outdoor adventures, especially in the mountainous north, much of which is still being discovered and made accessible to hikers. The sandy beaches of the riviera can be very special when the crowds disperse, though July and August are times to avoid. However, you don’t have to venture far from the tourist trail to discover empty wild strands and secluded pebbly coves. In between the coast and the mountains lie fascinating cities: layer-cakes of history built and destroyed by a medley of invaders and settlers, from the ancient Illyrians via Greeks and Romans to the Ottoman Empire and, finally, the paranoid communist regime of Enver Hoxha. The bustling capital Tirana is the place to learn the story of Albania’s four decades of workers’ utopia, its museums and bunkers preserving the memory of those who suffered under one of Europe’s most restrictive dictatorships.

Fact file

Albania has a population of around 2.4 million people, with 598,000 of those living in the capital Tirana. One-third of the country resides in Tirana County.

Albania has one of the lowest birthrates in the world, at an average of 1.21 children per woman.

Albanian was first recognized as an Indo-Europeanlanguage in the 1850s. By the nineteenth century, the tongue was written in at least ten different alphabets – some invented whole-cloth in Albania – before a version of the Latin alphabet was adopted as the standard.

Dictator Enver Hoxha built somewhere between 150,000 and 750,000 concrete bunkers across Albania between the 1960s and 1980s, though not all of them survive to this day. It was possibly the greatest single act of communist paranoia of the late twentieth century.

Albania is among the most religiously diverse countries in Europe: 51 percent of the population identify as Muslim, including five percent in the Sufi Bektashi sect, while sixteen percent are Christians, about equally split between Catholicism and Eastern Orthodoxy. Atheists and unaffiliated believers fill out most of the rest.

Famous Albanians by birth or parentage include Mother Teresa; singers Dua Lipa and Rita Ora; actors Eliza Dushku, John Belushi and Jim Belushi; and ChatGPT developer Mira Murati.

Albania is having a well-deserved moment in the spotlight for international tourism. In 2024, the country welcomed a record-breaking 11.7 million visitors – a huge leap from the 3.7 million in 2014 and the 645,000 in in 2004.

Mount Korabi (Maja e Korabit), at 2764m, is the highest peak in Albania and fourth-highest in the Balkans, just a touch below Mount Olympus (2917m) in Greece.

Albania and its cross-border habitats are home to an unusually high number of endemic species, including the Albanian water frog, Ohrid trout (locally called koran) and around thirty native plants

Albania is also still a land of genuinely welcoming hospitality, especially in more rural areas but also in places firmly on the tourist map. The country boasts countless farm stays where you can engage with local people, indulge in traditional food and unplug from the twenty-first century for a while. However, don’t expect much peace in the busy coastal resorts where mass tourism now operates at full throttle.

And no matter what you may have read or heard, travel to Albania is also safe. The days of the vendetta are pretty much over and the lawlessness and upheaval of the 1990s has been replaced by hope for a peaceful and prosperous future within the European Union (EU). Crime is no longer the issue it once was, and standards of facilities and infrastructure are on the rise.

So, as it will quickly become apparent to anyone who steps off a plane at Tirana International Airport, Albania is undergoing a renaissance, firmly established as a democratic member of NATO and broadly connected to the European and international communities. Still one of Europe’s poorest countries, problems obviously persist, but this small Balkan state is irreversibly on the road to better days, with tourism strongly part of the mix.

Equestrian statue, mosque, clock tower, and Albanian flag in a cityscape.

Skanderbeg Statue

Copyright (c) 2014 milosk50/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Map of Albania with cities, national parks, and neighboring countries highlighted.

Where to go

The obvious place to start, Tirana is one of Europe’s smaller capitals but it’s a city that’s developing fast, with skyscrapers, hotels and restaurants springing up almost on a daily basis. The Albanian metropolis is a unique and eccentric melange of Ottoman, Italianate, communist and contemporary architecture, and many remnants of its storied past survive, most notably in its museums that offer glimpses of life under communism, by turns terrible and fascinating. It’s by far the most cosmopolitan place in Albania, with the highest variety of restaurants and cultural offerings. However, in the heat of summer most visitors flock straight to the riviera, where long, pebbly beaches rival anything on the Mediterranean. The authorities have vowed to clear the infamous swarms of sun umbrellas, meaning more space to enjoy the beautiful coast (free of charge). Those who head off the beaten track will be rewarded with quieter, more secluded azure vistas and untamed coves untouched by mass tourism. Albania’s other natural wonder is its mountains, the north a crumpled peakscape with countless hiking and cycling routes through Shangri-La-esque valleys and gorges. The loop from Shkodra via Thethi, Valbona and the Komani ferry is becoming a European travel classic.

Almost joined at the hip with Tirana, Durrësi is Albania’s main port and an Adriatic gem with its ancient amphitheatre, Roman ruins, beaches and kicking nightlife. Further south, the port of Vlora is an engaging destination thanks to its worthwhile museums, good beaches and fine restaurants serving boat-fresh seafood.

The ‘City of a Thousand Windows’, centrally located Berati is a historical treasure trove brimming with Ottoman-era architecture and crowned by a dramatic castle. The town of Korça in the southeast of the country has lots of idiosyncratic museums to peruse, as well as a vibrant bazaar area given over to food, drink and music, while hillside Gjirokastra just shy of the Greek border is a UNESCO-listed tangle of stone-built lanes and storeybook tower houses.

In the far south, squaring up to the Greek island of Corfu across a narrow strait, Butrint is Albania’s premier archaeological site (one of many, it must be added) and another UNESCO World Heritage Site where visitors can explore an entire town’s worth of Greek, Roman and medieval ruins.

Barmy bunkers

A ubiquitous feature of the landscape across Albania, there are hundreds of thousands of concrete bunkers to be found in the country. A legacy of the paranoid communist regime of Enver Hoxha, they date across a twenty-year period from 1967 onwards, and were intended to provide civil defence in the event of an invasion by enemy forces. Hoxha took his inspiration from the guerrilla warfare that the Albanian resistance engaged in during World War II, in which fighters emerged from heavily defended mountain territory to attack lowland targets.

The bunkers range in size and design, from the smaller and more common installations that could house one or two soldiers to huge shelters for more sizeable units. There were even large networks designed to house the entire government in the event of nuclear attack. Their construction used up valuable resources and was economically crippling, which meant other infrastructure naturally suffered.

After Hoxha’s death, the building scheme ground to a halt, but not before the landscape of Albania had been transformed. Despite bunker removal programmes in the post-communist period, these malevolent-looking concrete edifices still dot the cities and countryside. Some, however, have become quirky landmarks, adorned with playful murals or repurposed to host art installations and cafés. Here are a few particularly worth a visit:

Bunk’Art 1 and 2. Enormous complexes of underground tunnels in Tirana, designed to house Albania’s government if the country were invaded or suffered a nuclear attack. They have been converted into fascinating museums detailing the bunkerization programme and the history of Albania under communism, and also house exhibitions of modern art. See pages 77 and 75

Pirogoshi. Found in the Gradeci Canyon near Berati, this military complex burrowed into the mountainside was part of a plan to fortify the region so it could act as a backup headquarters in the event of Tirana’s downfall. See page 121

Cold War Tunnel, Gjirokastra. Underneath Gjirokastra Castle, this 1970s design was intended as a place of refuge for local government officials. It contains offices, sleeping quarters and so on, and retains some original furnishings and paraphernalia. It can only be visited on a tour. See page 168

Zvërneci. Hidden beneath the lighthouse on the western cliff of this peninsula is a series of four large, interconnected bunkers, intended for naval defence: inside the first tunnel remains a poster for the inhabitants to use in identifying enemy vessels. The exterior has been decorated with environmentally themed street art. See page 196

Phoenice. These ancient ruins date back about 2500 years, but they occupy such an important strategic position that they were refortified in the communist era. The result is a bizarre combination of crumbling remains dotted with concrete bunkers. See page 205

When to go

Most visitors travel to Albania in the main summer season, between June and September. These months are the hottest, with temperatures regularly nudging above 40°C in the country’s lower-elevation corridors. This is great weather for swimming in the sea and sunbathing, though not so good for visiting museums and archaeological sites or doing very much at all outdoors. July and August are by far the busiest months, with the beaches often completely chock-a-block and accommodation on the coast booked out. Come to the riviera in May or late September and early October and you’ll find a different scene altogether, with most places open but a fraction of the summer crowds. However, much of the tourist infrastructure along the coast calls it a day between late October and May.

One area of the country you might also want to visit in Albania’s shoulder season is the mountainous north, though at altitude the edge is taken off extreme summer temperatures. From November through to March and April, trails and access roads can be blocked by snow.

One year-round destination is the capital, Tirana. You’ll get much more out of the city when the mercury sinks below 25°C, though, so it’s best to avoid June through August, when sweltering temperatures might put you off visiting its many excellent (though lacking air-conditioning) museums. Other cities, especially those inland such as Berati and Gjirokastra, have similar issues.

Albania’s colourful folk traditions are among the highlights of a visit so you might want to plan a trip to coincide with one of its many festivals. Individual events are listed below and in the individual chapters.

Sandy beach with sun loungers, umbrellas, and sunset over the ocean.

Durrësi Beach

Ben O’Donnell

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our authors have trekked remote mountainous trails, climbed to secluded hilltop castles and Byzantine monasteries, and consumed far more Albanian wine than is strictly necessary – it’s a hard job, but someone’s got to do it. Here are some of their favourite experiences.

Hit the trails The mountainous north of Albania is a hiker’s nirvana but the trail between Thethi and Valbona is something special. This is part of the Peaks of the Balkans (see page 96), a 192km loop around the high-altitude areas of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo, a magically undiscovered outdoor challenge.

Bunkering down Bunkers are an almost ubiquitous sight across the land, but the two Tirana Bunk’Art nuclear shelters (see pages 77 and 75) are the most fascinating places in the capital for those with an interest in Albania’s long decades under a communist dictatorship.

Ancient stone building on lush hillside with mountains and red flag.

Hajji Bendo Mosque, Borshi Castle

Copyright (c) 2022 BearFotos/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Hilltop fortresses Albania is dotted with picturesque castles perched atop imposing vantage points: enjoy expansive views from strongholds such as Borshi Castle (see page 201), Gjirokastra Castle (see page 168) and Rozafa Castle (see page 90) near Shkodra.

Marvellous monasteries Beautiful Byzantine churches such as the one at St Mary’s Monastery (see page 196) are found across the south of the country, often sheltering precious medieval frescoes.

Folk culture You are never far from a folk performance in Albania, whether that be iso-polyphony singing (see page 169), the sazet music of the south (see page 161) or the Oda Dibrane festival in Peshkopia (see page 101).

Bronze monument depicting historical figures, dated 1912, under a cloudy sky.

Independence Square monument

Copyright (c) 2014 CCat82/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Socialist realism art The communist era left behind some marvellously blocky monuments and memorials, including Vlora’s Independence Monument (see page 194), the Drashovica World War II memorial (see page 196), and the mural above the entrance to the National History Museum in Tirana (see page 73).

Secluded beaches The Albanian riviera can now be declared well and truly on the tourist map, but beaches such as Gjipeja (Gjipe; see page 198) and Lukova (see page 201) still have an undiscovered feel.

Albanian wine Unknown outside the country, many of Albania’s wines from native grapes are superb and well worth seeking out. The best area for winery visits is around Berati; try the Alpeta Agrotourism & Winery (see page 119) or the Pupa Winery (see page 119).

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things not to miss

It’s impossible to see everything Albania has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a taste of some of the country’s highlights: natural wonders and cultural treasures, serene beaches and UNESCO-protected old towns, dramatic drives and adventurous hikes. Each highlight has a page reference to take you straight into the guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

Cable cars ascending at sunset over cityscape and mountains.

1 Mount Dajti

See page 78

The best day-trip from Tirana is up Mount Dajti, just east of the city. Take the cable car to the summit for panoramas, meals with a view, and hiking.

Copyright (c) 2024 Victor Maschek/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Vintage grocery store with antique scale, jars, and produce crates.

2 Bunk’Art 1 and 2

See pages 77 and 75

A pair of gigantic nuclear bunkers in Tirana reimagined as subterranean museums, Bunk’Art 1 focuses on Albania’s twentieth-century history, regaled partially in art installations, while its younger cousin beneath the former Ministry of Internal Affairs is dedicated to communist repression and terror.

Copyright (c) 2025 Werner Lerooy/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Stone clock tower with arched bridge under clear blue sky.

3 Gjirokastra old town

See page 181

The UNESCO-inscribed historical centre of Gjirokastra is a warren of stone houses and narrow lanes in the shadow of a magnificent castle.

Copyright (c) 2014 Aleksandar Todorovic/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Boat sailing through scenic turquoise river surrounded by lush, mountainous terrain.

4 Lake Komani boat trip

See page 97

A great way to reach or return from the northern mountains, this scenic reservoir trip is like sailing down a fjord.

Copyright (c) 2019 taranzhenya/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Clear blue pool with small waterfall, surrounded by rocky and wooded terrain.

5 Blue Eye

See page 205

This karst hole in Southern Albania shines bright blue in the Balkan sun. It’s so deep no one has ever reached the bottom of it.

Shutterstock

Winding mountain road with scenic ocean view in the distance.

6 Llogara Pass

See page 198

One of Europe’s most dramatic drives, the zigzagging route down from the Llogara Pass provides spectacular views of the Albanian riviera.

Shutterstock

Coastal cityscape with waterfront buildings, pier, and hillside background.

7 Durrësi historic centre

See page 129

Piece together over two thousand years of history through the architectural jigsaw of this port city’s compact core.

Copyright (c) 2024 BearFotos/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Rafting on a turquoise river surrounded by lush green mountains and rocky terrain.

8 Përmeti’s Vjosa Riverlands

See page 181

Whether you want to chase rapids by river raft or luxuriate in thermal springs, the electric-blue waterways of the Vjosa River inspire awe and adventure.

Shutterstock

Stone house in lush mountainous landscape, with sheep and surrounding greenery.

9 Farm stays

See page 55

One of the best ways to experience the traditional food and culture of this welcoming Balkan nation is to stay at one of the many rural farms that host guests.

Copyright (c) 2024 Christopher Moswitzer/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Intricately carved wooden icons with religious paintings on a vivid red background.

10 National Museum of Medieval Art

See page 143

Albania is incredibly rich in Orthodox frescoes and icons, and the finest works of its home-grown painters live at this Korça museum.

Shutterstock

Ancient stone ruins with wooden bridge over green water surrounded by trees.

11 Butrint

See page 206

Unveil layers of ancient regional history at the country’s top archaeological site.

Copyright (c) 2019 Zdenek Matyas Photography/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Ancient ruins with columns, trees, and stone benches in a peaceful setting.

12 Apollonia Archaeological Park

See page 176

Discover how the Greeks and Romans lived, worked and studied at this amazing ruined city and museum near the city of Fieri.

Copyright (c) 2024 Ingrid Pakats/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Hiker standing on rock, overlooking scenic mountain landscape with snow patches.

13 Thethi to Valbona hike

See page 95

The hiking route between Thethi and Valbona is the most popular in Albania, and for good reason. The view along the Valbona Valley is spectacular.

Copyright (c) 2023 Bardhok Ndoji/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Two people sitting on a rocky cliff overlooking mountainous landscape.

14 Climb Mount Korab

See page 103

Mount Korab is Albania’s highest peak, and a fairly easy hike to the top is a great way to spend a day near Peshkopia.

Copyright (c) 2013 corgarashu/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Boat with red canopy on clear turquoise lake, hillside village background.

15 Lake Ohrid

See page 147

Shared with the Republic of North Macedonia, this huge lake is a wonderful summer retreat with crystal-clear waters, laidback fishing and freshwater seafood galore.

Copyright (c) 2021 SariMe/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Mountain landscape with rocky terrain, sparse trees, and a clear blue sky.

16 Shebeniku-Jabllanica National Park

See page 146

Hugging the Albanian border with the Republic of North Macedonia, this national park is a remote sprawl of glacial lakes, dense forests and deep valleys.

Copyright (c) 2024 Elton.xh/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Colorful market street with hanging rugs and various shops.

17 Korça Old Bazaar

See page 141

A restored historic market area converted into a happening hotspot of bars, restaurants and shops.

Copyright (c) 2024 Dynamoland/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Stone fortress with grassy courtyard surrounded by expansive fields.

18 Bashtova Castle

See page 134

Arguably Albania’s most striking castle, a short trip from Durrësi, it’s no surprise its fairy-tale turrets and battlements are on UNESCO’s tentative list.

Copyright (c) 2018 AlDigital On/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Albanian flag and equestrian statue in central city square.

19 Skanderbeg Square

See page 72

Tirana’s epicentre boasts some of the capital’s most recognizable landmarks and bustles from morning until night with strolling locals and tourists.

Copyright (c) 2016 Andrii Lutsyk/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Aerial view of historic town with red-roofed buildings and surrounding greenery.

20 Berati medieval core

See page 112

Unfurling just beneath the castle, the Ottoman centre of Berati has earned the town its moniker ‘City of a Thousand Windows’.

Copyright (c) 2022 BearFotos/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Woman overlooking scenic river and mountains from a high vantage point.

21 Lake Shkodra

See page 94

Albania has a share of the biggest lake in the Balkans, best accessed from the town of Shiroka near Shkodra.

Copyright (c) 2019 Matthew Storer/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Aerial view of urban street lined with trees and colorful buildings.

22 Blloku

See page 76

The former gated Tirana neighbourhood for communist party bigwigs, Blloku has reinvented itself as a hip place of cool restaurants, bars and hotels. Nearby, Piramida is the city’s wildest communist relic.

Copyright (c) 2019 n3m0shu/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Narrow stone street with rustic shops, souvenirs, and clothing in a mountainous village.

23 Kruja Bazaar and Castle

See page 83

Just 30km from Tirana, the evocative medieval hilltop town of Kruja celebrates Skanderbeg, the hero of Albanian resistance against the Ottomans.

Shutterstock

Boats on turquoise sea with beachside town and green hills in background.

24 The riviera

See page 188

Tourist magnet and the Mediterranean’s latest up-and-coming destination, the resorts and hidden coves of the Albanian riviera have some truly exquisite beaches.

Copyright (c) 2024 Jana Janina/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Turquoise river winding through tall, rugged cliffs with lush greenery.

25 Osumi Canyon

See page 121

One of Albania’s most spectacular natural attractions, this gorge plummets 150m in some places. At points it is only a few metres wide, flanked by soaring limestone walls.

Copyright (c) 2024 Robert Bronswinkel/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Albania might be small, but you’ll still need at least a month to scratch beneath the surface of this fascinating country. There’s just enough infrastructure to get you between big cities but you’ll definitely need your own car or even a 4WD (and/or guide) to reach smaller places and remote locations.

The grand tour

Culture-packed cities, Roman ruins, UNESCO wonders, Ottoman-era architecture: Albania has an embarrassment of riches. With your own car, this grand tour might take anything from ten days to two weeks depending on how long you spend in each place.

1 Shkodra On the shores of Lake Shkodra – the biggest natural body of water in the Balkans – this culturally engaging city is a wonderful launchpad for trips into the surrounding region and for a wider tour of the country. See page 94

2 Lezha It’s a short drive from Shkodra to Lezha, a small town with big connections, most notably to the Albanians’ national hero Skanderbeg, whose mausoleum is the main calling card here. See page 104

3 Tirana The motorway starts at Lezha, meaning you reach Tirana in no time. You could easily spend a week in and around the Albanian capital visiting the communism-examining museums, feasting on the country’s most varied food, and climbing Mount Dajti for fine city views. See page 68

4 Durrësi Albania’s main port city is a short ride from Tirana and is well worth a visit for its Roman ruins, inviting beaches and seafood restaurants strung along the sand. See page 128

5 Berati A mere 90km of decent road separates the coast from one of the highlights of Central Albania: the historical town of Berati with its mighty castle and clusters of well-preserved Ottoman-era buildings. See page 112

6 Gjirokastra There’s no direct route to the next stop, the road bucking and weaving south to Gjirokastra, a stone-built, UNESCO-protected wonder with heaps of Ottoman architecture and narrow cobbled lanes. See page 166

7 Butrint From Gjirokastra it’s a slow 70km drive towards the coast to reach Butrint, Albania’s most impressive archaeological site. Exploring the ruins of this Greek and Roman city transports you back into the ancient past. See page 206

Map of Albania with three travel routes marked by color.

Coastal adventure

Albania’s coastline is not only fringed with sandy beaches, it is also home to ancient Greek ruins, fine seafood restaurants and one of Europe’s most breathtaking drives. A hire car is a must to make the most of this trip, which could take anything from a week to a fortnight, depending on how long it takes to rouse yourself from your sun-drunk reverie.

1 Durrësi Start in Albania’s principal port, the ancient city of Durrësi with its Roman amphitheatre and long beaches. Ferries dock here from Italy, making it a natural entry point for those touring in their own vehicle. See page 128

2 Apollonia It’s just over an hour’s drive south to Apollonia, one of the most significant archaeological sites in Albania with its Greek and Roman ruins scattered over green hillsides. See page 176

3 Vlora Just thirty minutes by car separate Apollonia from Vlora, the northern gateway to the glittering riviera. Albania’s third city has a vibrant, renovated centre and some excellent eating options. See page 190

4 Llogara Pass Though a tunnel now bores through the mountain, the Llogara Pass is one of Europe’s most exhilarating drives, with switchbacks, downhill slaloms and the most amazing views in Albania. See page 198

5 Himara Further along the coast is the riviera’s principal resort: Himara. Hooking around a gleaming bay, the town has everything you need for a do-nothing beach break. See page 199

6 Qeparoi A short hop south, this unsung Ionian village is surrounded by an azure bay, with magical coastal castles and an alluring old town. See page 200

7 Saranda Decent, if well-frequented, roads lead to Saranda, another major beach resort town. Ferries leave from here to Corfu. See page 201

Mountains of the north

This northern odyssey could take fit hikers and intrepid travellers anything from a week to a month depending on how many side treks take your fancy.

1 Shkodra Gateway to the north, Shkodra is definitely worth a few days of your time to explore Lake Shkodra and the city’s museums. See page 94

2 Thethi A two-hour white-knuckle ride over the Buni i Thorës Pass (1704m) brings you to the remarkably picturesque village of Thethi, until recently a lost world surrounded by high peaks. Several hiking routes run from here. See page 94

3 Valbona One of those trails from Thethi is Albania’s most popular hike, wending 18km through an alpine wonderland to the equally remote village of Valbona. Further hiking paths radiate from here to even more remote locations. See page 95

4 Bajram Curri It’s a 24km bus or taxi ride to Bajram Curri, a major service centre for the northern mountains. It’s a great place to stock up, chill out and repair or replace gear. See page 96

5 Kukësi It’s a tortuous journey across rough terrain by 4WD from Bajram Curri to Kukësi and you should allow a day to complete the route. The town has a sprinkling of interesting sights and is a launchpad for adventures in the mountainscape beyond. See page 98

6 Puka By road the journey from Kukësi to Puka takes around two hours along twisting roads through the peaks. Puka has a unique combination of skiing, hiking and craft beer to enjoy, before returning to lower altitudes for some R&R. See page 97

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Sustainable travel

Albanians are working hard to promote sustainable travel and preserve the beauty of their country and their rich cultural heritage. Here’s what you can do to help them succeed.

A country just emerging into the mass tourism limelight, Albania has a good chance to get things right from the outset when it comes to sustainability. However, the country has inherited many bad practices from the decades of communism and chaos of its aftermath, and it lacks a lot of essential infrastructure, especially when it comes to waste management and water treatment. A flurry of rampant development along the coast along with a controversial new airport in the ecologically important habitat of Vlora (see page 190) has placed the environment under heavy strain, but NGOs and local businesses have tirelessly campaigned to protect the land and promote ecotourism. Plus, there are several things that travellers can do to limit their impact while still enjoying their trip to the full.

Leave no trace

The number one topic when it comes to the environment in Albania is waste management. The sad reality is that few other countries in Europe are as strewn with litter as Albania. Outside Tirana and a couple of other big cities, refuse collection is very patchy and in rural communities hardly exists at all. To avoid exacerbating the problem, try to limit your waste production and never throw rubbish out of your car window (sadly, this is not uncommon with locals in Albania). If travelling in your own car, crush plastic bottles and take them home with you, where you can dispose of them in an environmentally sound way. Tirana now has recycling facilities so make sure you use them.

Two people biking in casual clothing on a sunny day.

Many Albanian cities are bike-firendly

Shutterstock

EcoAlbania

A decade ago, professors from Tirana University teamed up with an environmental NGO to create EcoAlbania (www.ecoalbania.org), an organization that engages in green projects across the land. It has successfully campaigned to make the Vjosa waterways (see page 181) a national park amid plans to dam the river and create hydropower plants. Other projects include conservation of the endangered Albanian water frog, developing a school curriculum in environmental issues, and clean-up campaigns in Osumi Canyon (see page 121). There are limited opportunities to participate in volunteer work and you can apply to take part online.

Farm stays

Choosing a farm stay (agroturizëm) is a great way to sample local food and hospitality and the money you spend at this type of accommodation usually stays in the community. Hosting paying guests helps farms preserve traditional food production, supports livestock husbandry and could encourage young people to stay and work in rural areas. It is also an excellent opportunity to engage with local people and get to know Albanians beyond tourist-weary hotel receptionists and waiters. Learn more about agritourism in Albania at www.agrotourism.gov.al.

AgroPuka

This Puka-based NGO (www.agropuka.org) supports mostly women food producers in rural areas. It created three social enterprise cooperatives to help female farmers produce, process and sell their products, helping to increase the income for remote communities. The team provided training in business start-ups, marketing and self-financing, and helped to set up food markets and fairs across Puka (see page 97). Seek out produce from AgroPuka members to support efforts to keep traditional food production alive and to preserve ancient ways of life in the mountains of Albania.

Shop sensibly Solidarity Shop

There is a growing crop of sustainable shops that travellers can support during their time in Albania. Berati-based Solidarity Shop (see page 116) is packed with locally produced handicrafts and preserved foods from the Berati region, serving as a marketplace for local farmers and artisans who might not have access to their own storefront. Gratuities are used to support families in need within rural communities. Initiatives in 2024 included food deliveries, holiday-gift campaigns and building homes for families displaced by an earthquake. In Elbasani, Tradita ime Artizanale (see page 127) is the best place in town for authentic handicrafts. What’s more, you can shop with a conscience as this local shop is the outlet for a social entrepreneurship organization that enables impoverished women to sell their traditional craftwork.

Beaches

In late 2024, it was rumoured that authorities were going to make an attempt to rid Albania’s beaches of the forests of sunbeds and umbrellas that have become the scourge of every seaside town in the land. It will no longer be possible for any and every local business to rent a patch of sand, and hotels will only be able to set up as many sunbeds as they have room for. The sardine-packed sunbaker phenomenon is one of the main reasons holidaymakers don’t return to Albania’s riviera: the experience of lying twenty rows back, unable to even see the sea and breathing in billowing cigarette smoke, is not a particularly memorable or enjoyable one. If the problem persists despite changes to the law, don’t encourage illegal beach grabs and unfurl your towel elsewhere, ideally where there are no sun umbrellas.

Cycling

It may come a surprise to many, but Albanians often get around by bike. This is a legacy of the communist era when personal vehicle ownership was essentially banned. Tirana, Korça and a few other towns and cities have excellent cycle lanes and bike facilities, though the number of cycle-hire places is lacking and as of autumn 2024 there were no shared-bike schemes in operation. Hitting the marked cycling trails of the northern mountains makes for a sustainable holiday you’ll long remember. There are also lengthy road-cycling itineraries around the south of Albania; a guide is recommended for these.

Sustainability-focused tour operators

Wilderness adventure and conservation go hand in hand, so it’s little surprise that tour operators specializing in trekking, biking, rafting, kayaking, climbing, yoga and village visits practice sustainability and promote responsible rural development. Either through their companies or affiliated nonprofits, the founders and employees of these organizations mark and maintain trails, clean up litter, partner with family restaurants or guesthouses in impoverished areas and raise awareness of environmental threats. Even if you skip a trip, virtually all such outfits will clue you in to volunteer opportunities. Leaders include Tirana-based Active Albania (www.activealbania.com), Përmeti-based Vjosa Explorer (www.vjosaexplorer.com) and AvenTour Albania, the travel arm of nonprofit Korça Alpin (www.korcaalpin.org).

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Basics

Majestic mosque with Turkish and Albanian flags suspended between minarets.

Tirana: the main gateway to Albania

Copyright (c) 2024 Shepps/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Getting there

Most people who visit Albania arrive by plane, which is typically the easiest and cheapest way to travel. Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa) is the only operational international airport in Albania. As of 2024, a total of 23 airlines serve the airport, linking the Albanian capital with many parts of Central, Eastern and Western Europe. Destinations reflect the largest markets for Albania’s tourist industry – such as Germany, Italy, the Czech Republic, Austria and Poland – as well as where the biggest diasporas of Albanians and Kosovan Albanians live (Italy, Greece, the UK, Germany and Austria). The only destinations served outside Europe are the UAE and Turkey, with only seasonal holiday beyond Istanbul. Albania-bound travellers also have the option of flying to Podgorica, Montenegro; Pristina, Kosovo; Thessaloniki, Greece; or Ohrid, North Macedonia, and crossing the border by land.

Most flights are now year-round, though some services are paused or reduced in frequency over the European winter. Another international airport is due to open in Vlora on Albania’s Adriatic coastline in 2025, though it’s mired in controversy due to concerns over its environmental impact on the surrounding wetlands that shelter dozens of endangered birds. A third airport, Kukës International Airport Zayed in northeast Albania, opened in 2021 but had ceased service by 2024; it is not yet clear when or if flights will resume. Other ways of getting to Albania include by ferry from southern Italy and Corfu, or by bus or car from countries in continental Europe.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

There are several daily nonstop flights between London and Tirana International Airport (www.tirana-airport.com), taking around three hours and costing from £15 in low season and from £100 at the height of summer. Hungarian low-cost airline Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) links Luton with Tirana up to three times a day, while Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies out of Stansted thrice-daily, from Manchester thrice-weekly and from Bristol and Edinburgh twice-weekly over the summer season. British Airways (www.britishairways.com) operates services out of London Heathrow. More flights from regional airports across the UK are certain to start up over the coming years.

There are no direct flights from Ireland to Albania, your best bet is to fly to London or to mainland Europe (Munich, Frankfurt or Milan are possible routings) and connect to another flight from there.

Flights from mainland Europe

Many European cities now have direct flights to Tirana, some operated by budget airlines. There are daily flights to Frankfurt and several other regional airports in Germany, Rome and many other cities in Italy, Athens, Istanbul, Brussels, Zurich, Vienna, Valencia, Barcelona, Budapest, Belgrade, Madrid and Malmö. A large share of these are operated by Ryanair and Wizz Air. In 2021, a second international airport opened in Kukësi in northeast Albania, offering flights to European cities, including Zurich and Istanbul, but the airport is no longer in service as of 2025. Check Kukës International Airport Zayed’s website (www.kuiport.al) for developments.

Flights from the US and Canada

As of 2024 there were no direct flights between Albania and North America, and travellers from the US and Canada have to fly via London, Munich, Frankfurt, Vienna or Zurich. From many major cities all around the continental US, the best routing might be with United Airlines (www.united.com) and its codeshare partners: Austrian Airlines (www.austrian.com) via Vienna; Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) or Discover (www.discover-airlines.com) via Frankfurt; or Swiss Air (www.swissair.com) via Zurich. The routes usually entail a flight time of around fourteen hours, though a handful of quicker connections have begun to appear. Another popular option is via Istanbul with Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com). Return fares start at around US$700 regardless of which routing you choose. There are whispers, however, that a US airline will be commencing direct flights to/from New York in 2025.

From Canada, Austrian Airlines and Air Canada (www.aircanada.com) codeshare via Vienna from Toronto and Montreal. Lufthansa and Air Canada do the same out of Vancouver via Frankfurt and Munich. Fares start at around US$950.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

There are no direct flights between Albania and Australia, New Zealand or South Africa. From Australia, the most convenient service is from Melbourne via Dubai (25hr) with Emirates (www.emirates.com). All other routes require two connections: the first in Asia – Singapore or Bangkok, for instance – and the second in a major European hub like Frankfurt or London. The same applies when travelling to Albania from New Zealand. Flights start at roughly AU$1700 from Australia and NZ$3000 from New Zealand, with flight times ranging from 22 to 35 hours depending on connections.

If you’re travelling from South Africa to Tirana, the best routings are from Johannesburg or Cape Town via Dubai or Istanbul, with fares starting at around ZAR15,000 return, more often than not with Emirates.

Trains

No matter what you might read online, Albania is not linked to any of its neighbours by rail. The nearest you can get to Albania by train is Bar in Montenegro, from where it is possible to continue by bus over the border to Shkodra. The railway journey to Bar is a tortuous if scenic trip from the Serbian capital Belgrade, which is connected to a number of European cities (including Vienna and Budapest) but may not be entirely safe for Western travellers as of 2024. However, if you really are determined to travel by train, the Belgrade–Bar service runs twice daily and includes the seasonal day train Tara (mid-June to mid-September; 11hr; tickets from €24) and the overnight sleeper Lovćen, which departs at 8.20pm and takes ten hours (add €6–20 for a shared six-bed couchette up to a three-bed compartment). Tickets must be bought at the station. From Athens, you can take the Hellenic Train to Thessaloniki (several daily; 5hr; tickets from €43), from where bus services connect to multiple cities in Albania (see Buses). Check schedules at www.hellenictrain.gr.

From the UK, it is possible to travel to Bari in Italy by train then take the ferry to Albania, though this is a long and complicated journey. There is just one London–Bari rail itinerary: Eurostar to Paris then TGV to Milan, where you board the Frecciarossa to Bari. The total journey time is around nineteen hours, though the route requires an overnight stop in Milan. In all likelihood, this won’t save you money compared to flying, but it is far more environmentally friendly and provides a chance to stop off in other countries along the way. Alternatively, a longer overland route trundles from Paris via Stuttgart, the night train to Zagreb, and onwards by bus to Belgrade, where you hop on the night train to the Montenegrin capital Podgorica. Regular buses link Podgorica with Shkodra and Tirana.

It’s certainly simpler and more cost-effective to buy a rail pass (see below), invest in an international rail timetable and plan your own itinerary, than to try to purchase a return ticket: most agents deal exclusively with premier express services, and fares often work out way more expensive than flying. The high cost is at least partly explained by the fact that almost all through-tickets from London to European destinations use very expensive Eurostar services.

Rail passes

If you’re planning to visit Albania as part of a more extensive trip around Europe, it may be worth buying a rail pass. Italy, Croatia and neighbouring Montenegro are covered in the Interrail scheme, which is available to European residents. Interrail passes can be bought through the likes of Trainseurope and Eurail in the UK (see below) and come in two categories: one for those aged 26 and over, and the (cheaper) under-26 version. There is a range of passes offering different durations, from four days’ travel in a one-month period, which will just about suffice for a trip to Albania and back; although a more leisurely approach would require a pass for seven days’ travel within one month, or ten days within two months. Interrail passes do not include travel between Britain and the continent, although pass-holders are eligible for discounts on rail travel in the UK and on cross-Channel ferries.

Non-European residents qualify for the Eurail Global pass, which must be purchased before arrival in Europe from selected agents in North America, Australia and New Zealand or from Trainseurope or Voyages SNCF in London. The pass allows unlimited train travel in twenty European countries, including Belgium and Germany. Passes for those aged 28 and over are for first-class travel only; the under-28s pass comes with a second-class option. There’s an extensive choice of time periods. Further details of these passes can be found on www.eurail.com.

Rail contacts

Deutsche Bahn www.bahn.com. Timetable information and through-ticketing on some European routes.

Eurostar www.eurostar.com. Trains from London to France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

Eurail www.eurail.com. Global agents for Eurail and individual European rail tickets on some routes.

The Man in Seat 61 www.seat61.com. Train enthusiast-run site packed with information on all aspects of international rail travel. Far more reliable than many official sites.

Trainseurope www.trainseurope.co.uk. Interrail passes and through-tickets on European routes.

Buses

As there are no train services in or out of Albania, the only way to reach neighbouring Balkan states over land, if you are not driving, is by bus. Tirana and other Albanian cities are well connected with destinations in Greece, North Macedonia, Kosovo and Montenegro. Budget operator FlixBus (www.flixbus.com) offers direct bus services between Shkodra and Podgorica (1hr 35min), which makes flying into the Montenegrin capital and crossing the Albanian border by bus an option if you are visiting the northern mountains.

A host of bus companies link Tirana with Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, with direct services hourly and a journey time of four hours. There are also direct buses in the morning and evening to Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia (7hr).

Leaving Greece, you can catch buses from Athens, Thessaloniki, Patras, Piraeus, Larissa, Argos, Ioannina, Chalcis, Corinth, Sparta and other cities, as far afield