Frommer's Portugal

By Paul Ames

You’ll never fall into tourist traps when you travel with Frommer's. Doing so is like having a trusted friend show you around, taking you to the places locals like best. That’s because our guidebooks, unlike those of many competitors, are written by resident experts—like Paul Ames, a highly respected, Portugal-based travel journalist and the author of Frommer’s Portugal. In this proudly opinionated book he will help you sort through all the options so you can tailor a vacation that’s right for you.

Inside this book you’ll find:

· Savvy advice for avoiding crowds as you explore some of Portugal's greatest gems, from Lisbon's Alfama to the beaches of the Algarve to the Palácio Nacional de Sintra to the port-tasting rooms of Porto—plus tips for navigating the country's lovely but less-traveled corners, such as Trás-os-Mantes and the Minho

· Where to discover the absolute best seafood in Lisbon, the tastiest fruit in Alcobaça, and the finest wines in the Douro Valley

· Insightful commentary on Portugal's dazzling array of architectural masterpieces, like the Gothic Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória in Alcobaça and the Baroque Palácio Nacional de Queluz

· Opinionated reviews—no bland descriptions or lukewarm recommendations here. Our expert author is passionate about the country, and he tells it like it is in an engaging and helpful way

· Exact prices listed for every establishment and activity, so there’s never any guessing or nasty surprises

· Lodging, restaurant, and shopping recommendations in all ranges from luxe to affordable

· User-friendly features including star ratings, detailed maps, and a pullout map of the country

· Large, easy-to-read fonts but thin paper, so the book isn’t too heavy to carry

· Helpful planning tips for getting there, getting around, saving money, and getting the most from your trip

About Frommer’s: There’s a reason that Frommer’s has been the most trusted name in travel for more than 60 years. Arthur Frommer created the bestselling guide series in 1957 to help American service members fulfill their dreams of travel in Europe. Since then, we have published thousands of titles, becoming a household name by helping millions upon millions of people realize their own dreams of seeing our planet. Travel is easy with Frommer’s.

• Language: English
• Publisher: FrommerMedia
• Release date: Sep 26, 2023
• ISBN: 9781628875720

Book preview

1

The Best of Portugal

Portugal is Europe’s West Coast. With 1,000 miles of shoreline, a balmy climate, and a laid-back lifestyle, it’s hard to miss the comparisons with California. But beyond the glorious beaches, the superb seafood, and the world-beating wines, this is an ancient nation, crammed with heritage, from Roman temples to medieval cities to romantic palaces rising out of lush rainforest. Five hundred years after Portuguese explorers opened up the world in the Age of Discoveries, travelers from around the globe are flocking to Portugal to discover its many wonders.

As a land where climate, landscape, and history combine so pleasingly in such a small space, mainland Europe’s westernmost nation has few rivals. Atlantic breezes waft over beaches that range from family-friendly coves to strands of endless sand pounded by the continent’s best surf. The capital Lisbon and second city Porto are among Europe’s hippest cities, where waterfront nightspots throb with all-night DJ sets and the plaintive sounds of traditional fado music and student troubadours echo down medieval alleys. If your goal is relaxing in a year-round subtropical springtime, Madeira Island is the place.

Gourmands can feast on a rich and varied cuisine rooted in tradition and based on fresh fish, seasonal produce, and centuries of winemaking expertise. Packed into a country the size of Maine are 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites (compared with 24 in the whole of the U.S.A.). These range from the rolling hillside vineyards above the River Douro and the mysterious stronghold of the Knights Templar in Tomar to historic cities like Évora, Guimarães, and Angra do Heroísmo in the Azores islands.

Those seeking a more active break can hike the mountain wildernesses of the Peneda-Gerês National Park or Serra da Estrela highlands; watch dolphins frolic off Algarve beaches; or play a round on world-class golf courses. All that combined with a reputation for safety, low crime, and warm hospitality have made Portugal one of Europe’s hottest destinations.

Cities Spread along the broad estuary of the River Tagus, Lisbon is the country’s political, economic, and cultural heart. It enjoys more sunshine than Madrid, Rome, or Athens. Commuter trains run from downtown to Atlantic beaches in minutes. There are gilded theaters, treasure-packed museums, and atmospheric old neighborhoods that recall the 15th-century golden age of Portuguese discoveries. Second city Porto is fast catching up as a city-trip destination, thanks to its UNESCO World Heritage riverside heart, cultural scene, and established reputation as a capital of cool. The ancient university city of Coimbra is regarded as Portugal’s most romantic, while regional centers like Guimarães and Braga in the far north, Évora in the Alentejo region, and Funchal on Madeira are treasure houses of tradition and culture.

Countryside For a small country, Portugal boasts a richly diverse landscape. The southern Algarve region is redolent of the Mediterranean, with balmy beaches, almond groves, and citrus plantations. Farther north in the vast rolling plains of the Alentejo, black pigs feast on acorns under forests of cork oaks to produce fabulous hams. The land is punctuated by picture-perfect whitewashed villages. In the rugged interior of the central Beiras region, mainland Portugal’s highest peaks are found in the Serra da Estrella mountain range, home to the country’s only ski resort. Inland from Porto, vine-covered slopes surround the River Douro, arguably the world’s most beautiful wine region. Beyond, the northwest Minho region is verdant and dotted with elegant manor houses, while Trás-os-Montes to the northeast is marked by starkly beautiful high plateaus and a cuisine as robust as its climate. Madeira is known as the island of eternal spring, and the nine islands of the Azores display dramatic volcanic landscapes surrounded by the blue Atlantic.

Eating & Drinking The Portuguese love to eat, and restaurant attendance in the nation is among Europe’s highest. Fortunately, eating out costs less here than just about anywhere in Western Europe. Portuguese cuisine isn’t as well-known as it should be, perhaps because it depends heavily on fresh local ingredients—fish newly plucked from the Atlantic, a multitude of seasonal fruits and vegetables that ripen in the warm climate, beef raised on lush northern pastures, lamb nourished on spring flowers.

Coast The Algarve is Portugal’s premier vacation region, its sheltered south coast is strung with beaches that range from flat, gently sloping sandbar islands (reached by bridge or boat close to the border with Spanish Andalusia) to the iconic coves hidden between honeycomb cliffs near the towns of Lagos and Albufeira. Unfortunately, some of the resort towns in the Algarve’s central strip suffer from the excesses of mass tourism, with strips of ugly high-rise condos and bargain-booze bars, but beyond the dramatic headland of Europe’s most southwesterly point at Sagres, the coast changes. Wind and waves make the wild west a paradise for surfers and sailors. The world’s biggest surfed waves crash ashore near the picturesque fishing port of Nazaré. Even along the west coast, however, there are sheltered beaches—the soft white sands and gentle bays just south of Lisbon at Comporta and Arrábida are a delight.

The sun sets beyond the clifftop Cape St. Vincent lighthouse on the remote Sagres Peninsula.

Portugal’s best Authentic Experiences

Fado: There are many places to experience Lisbon’s unique fado music: from backstreet dives (where the cook may step out of the kitchen to give voice to her emotions by bursting into song) to fancy clubs where you’ll pay dearly to dine accompanied by a renowned diva. There are also concert halls where fans gather in their thousands to hear one of the genre’s big stars. Fado’s bluesy blend of voice and guitar often strives to capture the concept of saudade, an untranslatable word bound up in feelings of lost love and longing for homelands left behind that is deeply rooted in the Portuguese national character.

Market shopping: Portugal’s morning produce markets have suffered from superstore competition, but in most towns still showcase a vast array of fresh, seasonal goods that will delight anybody curious about food. These markets are not for the faint-hearted: butchers’ stalls proudly present glistering arrays of offal, and fishmongers cheerfully gut and scale the day’s catch. Naturally grown fruits and vegetables may lack the shine and cookie-cutter sameness of supermarket goods, but taste oh so much better. Markets in Setúbal, Funchal, and Olhão are among the best.

Hitting a hot tub: Hot springs bubble up from Portugal’s hills and plains. Spa resorts are scattered about the country. Some have roots going back to Roman times; many maintain an old-world elegance with splendid Belle Epoque hotels or Art Deco baths in marble, brass, and painted azulejo tiles. The charm may be a little faded in some places, but plenty have been restored to their full glory.

Downing a bica: In a country whose former colonies included Brazil, Angola, and East Timor, it’s no surprise that the country is hooked on coffee. Although you can find local equivalents of lattes and flat whites, the Portuguese mostly get their caffeine fix through tiny espresso shots known as a bica, or simply a café. If you want to blend in, eschew pavement terraces and join the locals lined up at the counter in countless cafes to knock back their bicas, quite possibly with a custard-filled pastel de nata or other treat from the selection of pastries on show. See p. 54.

Chilling on a beach: While the English complain it’s not my cup of tea, the Portuguese say não é a minha praia—it’s not my beach. The phrase shows how central the beach is to Portuguese life. Inhabitants of Lisbon and Porto will rush out to the cities’ suburban shores on weekends, even in mornings and evenings before and after work. Most beaches have cool bars or restaurants that serve up wonderful fresh shellfish or grilled fish. Surfers from around the world flock to ride the rollers along the west coast at places like Aljezur, Ericeira, and Peniche.

Wine tasting at a quinta: Port wine from the Douro region has been a major Portuguese export for centuries, but the world has only recently awoken up to the wonders of the country’s other wines: darkly brooding reds, playful white vinho verdes from the Minho, bubbly espumantes, sweet Moscatels. Excellent tipples are produced the length and breadth of the country, but the Douro region’s terraced hills stand out for their beauty. Sampling wines in one of the Douro’s historic estates (quintas) while gazing out over the landscape is unforgettable.

Street musicians playing the uniquely soulful sounds of fado in Lisbon.

Hiking wildflower trails in Pico Ruivo on Madeira Island.

Watching the sun set at the end of the earth: The ancients believed the remote Sagres Peninsula at the southwestern tip of Europe was the end of the earth, and it was here that Prince Henry the Navigator plotted the Age of Discoveries. There are few better places to watch the sun go down. Crowds gather around the clifftop fort and lighthouse at nearby Cape St. Vincent to see the sun turn the sky orange before sinking beneath the waves. There’s nothing but the Atlantic between here and New York. The cocktails served in the fortress cafe help blunt the sometimes chilly winds.

Party with the saints: Lisbon’s biggest party comes on June 13. To honor Saint Anthony (Santo António), its patron, the city engages in all-night revelry. The streets in the oldest neighborhoods fill with the whiff of sardines cooking on the grill and the sound of guitars and accordions. Hordes of revelers quaffing beer and red wine dance into the wee hours. Celebrations are most intense in the district that wins the marchas populares contest, a singing costumed promenade down the capital’s main boulevard. Eleven days later it’s Porto’s turn, on the night of Saint John (São João). The second-city’s party includes a spectacular fireworks display over the Douro. Just about every other town has an equivalent festa at some point over the summer.

Walking a levada: The island of Madeira is crisscrossed with more than 2,000km (over 1,200 miles) of hiking trails that follow narrow stone irrigation channels, known as levadas. Walking them offers wonderful views of the island’s mountainous interior and out over the deep blue Atlantic. Many lead though the laurisilva forest, a remnant of the semitropical native vegetation that covered the island before Portuguese explorers arrived in 1419. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among the most scenic walks is Levada do Caldeirão Verde, which snakes nearly 4 miles though verdant glades past tumbling ocean vistas before arriving at a 100m (330-ft.) waterfall deep in the forest.

Taking to the waves on the Tagus: Lisbon’s cutest mode of public transport are the tiny streetcars that weave through the city’s narrow streets. But the famed Tram 28 has fallen victim to its reputation and is now swamped with tourists. A more authentic journey would be to join the thousands of Lisbonites who commute from the south bank of the River Tagus into the city on little orange ferry boats called cacilheiros. For 1.30€ you can admire an unrivaled view of the Lisbon skyline as the boat chugs across for the 10-minute voyage to the dock at Cacilhas, where there’s a welcoming row of riverside seafood restaurants.

Portugal’s best Villages & Small Towns

Tavira: While much of the central Algarve coast has been scarred by mass tourism, the region’s eastern and western extremities retain their charm. Nowhere more so than this little town, where noble 17th-century homes line the riverside, narrow streets are filled with restaurants and cafes, and small boats can whisk you to near-deserted island beaches. See p. 286.

Óbidos: Clustered around its 12th-century castle, this is one of Portugal’s best-preserved medieval towns. Its maze of cobbled lanes connects whitewashed houses with bright blue or yellow trim. The town is also famed for its bookshops, its sweet cherry liqueur, and the white sands of its lagoon, which opens out into the Atlantic nearby. See p. 243.

Monsanto: This tiny village of red-roofed granite houses looks as if it has been carved out of rock on a high hill overlooking the Beira Baixa plain. In the 1930s, it was named the most Portuguese village, and old traditions still linger, although its remote location near the Spanish border attracts outsiders seeking solitude among the giant boulders and Templar castle ramparts. Monsanto’s otherworldly ambience inspired HBO to select it as a film location for its House of the Dragon TV fantasy series. See p. 411.

Amarante: Inland from Porto, Amarante sits on a tree-lined curve in the River Tâmega. Its Renaissance-style riverside church, built with Spanish and Italian influences out of soft golden local stone, is surrounded by townhouses rising up the hillside and spreading along the riverbank. It is home to a fine luxury hotel, a surprising museum of modern art, and famed cafes serving sweet almond- and cinnamon-flavored pastries. See p. 456.

Marvão: As dramatic locations go, this one is hard to beat. Marvão is perched on a rocky crag rising 860m (2,800 ft.) out of the Alentejo plain. It stood as a frontier post for centuries, fought over by Celts and Romans, Muslims and Christians, Castilians and Portuguese. Inside its medieval battlements, the old, whitewashed town has survived all those battles. Views are extraordinary, especially if you’re here at dawn or sunset. See p. 366.

Angra do Heroísmo: The history-packed capital of Terceira island in the Azores permits residents to choose from 18 authorized shades for painting their houses. The result is a riot of pastel facades huddled around a couple of Atlantic coves and framed by volcanic slopes covered in grass of the deepest green. The city was a key staging post for the Portuguese trading empire and served as an inspiration for the construction of colonial ports across Latin America. See p. 556.

The fetching medieval streetscape of Óbidos.

Miranda do Douro: Located on the edge of a canyon formed by the River Douro on Portugal’s northeast frontier, Miranda has been a land that time forgot since 1762, when invading Spaniards blew up a big part of it and the authorities decamped farther from the border. Isolation has allowed the town to maintain its own unique language, Mirandese, and traditions like a war dance performed by local men wearing frilly skirts and striped woolen socks. There’s a sturdy stone cathedral and cobbled streets lined with centuries-old homes. It’s also famed for its steaks. See p. 510.

Piodão: Huddled on a terraced hillside in a remote corner of the Açor mountains in the center of the country, homes here are made from dark, almost black schist stone with slate roofs. In dramatic counterpoint is the little parish church, a wedding-cake confection in purest white with pale blue trim. At dusk, when the village glitters with yellow lights, it resembles a Neapolitan nativity scene. It’s a great base for hiking the hills or sampling hearty highland dishes like goat slow-cooked in red wine. See p. 411.

Ponte de Lima: Once a Roman outpost, Ponte de Lima lays claim to being the oldest village in Portugal. It’s defined by the ancient stone bridge that arches over the slow-moving River Lima and connects the village to the slender tower of St. Anthony’s Church on the west bank. Ponte de Lima is packed with historic mansions whose balconies overflow with summer flowers. It’s set in the verdant hills of the Minho region and surrounded by baroque estates producing crisp vinho verde wines. See p. 478.

Mértola: Clinging to a ridge over the River Guadiana, this picturesque collection of white-painted houses surrounded by medieval walls was the capital of an Arab kingdom in the Middle Ages. The parish church was once a mosque, and its multi-columned interior is a rare survivor of Islamic architecture in Portugal. Wandering the ancient streets, it’s not hard to imagine Mértola’s golden age as a cosmopolitan river port. The river provides swimming and kayaking opportunities, and local restaurants thrive on partridge, hare, and other game hunted in the wild surrounds. See p. 366.

Portugal’s best Beaches

Porto Santo: Madeira Island lacks sandy beaches, but just a 2-hour boat trip (or 15-min. flight) away is one of Portugal’s best. The little island of Porto Santo boasts a 10km (6-mile) stretch of golden sand encircling a bay of still blue water with views of Madeira’s mountains on the horizon. See p. 530.

Praia da Marinha: Coves of pale sand nestled beneath honeycomb cliffs, near the resort of Carvoeiro, this is one of the most iconic Algarve beaches. In summer, you won’t have it all to yourself, but its distance from the main resorts means it’s not as crowded as most beaches along this stretch of coast. See p. 295.

Praia da Falésia: Imagine an Arizona canyon with one side washed away by the Atlantic and a floor of yellow sand. This is our pick of the central Algarve beaches. Cliffs of multicolored sandstone, marked with ridges and gullies, run for miles alongside the sand, providing a stunning backdrop to your sunbathing, especially when the sun starts to set. You’ll find regular parking lots among the clifftop pines and a few tony resorts and restaurants, but there’s lots of space here, particularly at the eastern end. Another favorite: little Praia do Camilo, reached by a staircase that winds down to the sand.

Meia Praia: This graceful arc of soft pale sand curves for more than 3 miles from the edge of Lagos town to the calm expanse of Ria de Alvor lagoon. At the city end, it’s popular with local families who arrive on a little ferry boat over the river. The beach has a scattering of bars and fish restaurants, but it rarely gets too crowded. Head toward the lagoon end and you can get vast stretches of sand and gentle water to yourself. See p. 316.

Comporta: This endless curve of platinum-blond sand in a bay of sapphire blue water is achingly beautiful, looking across to the Arrábida hills in the distance. With the shabby-chic village of Comporta on the other side of the dunes, this is the most fashionable spot on the coast. Be careful not to trip over a billionaire or supermodel as you head from the seafood restaurants to the water, and make sure you’re inside before mosquito time around sunset. See p. 239.

Guincho: In the lee of Europe’s westernmost point at Capo da Roca, this broad expanse of sand is the most dramatic of the beaches in the Cascais-Sintra area west of Lisbon. Its exposure to Atlantic breezes whipping around the cape means that except on rare calm days, it’s better for surfing and wind sports than sunbathing on the sand. But the views are dramatic, and there are excellent restaurants along the coast road. See p. 186.

The broad sweep of beautiful Comporta beach.

Supertubos: Portugal’s surfer beach par excellence. Although the waves here are not as huge as the record-breaking rollers up the coast in Nazaré, this strand, just south of the fishing town of Peniche, is renowned for the regularity of its perfect tubular waves crashing on to the sand. See p. 259.

Moledo: Portugal’s northernmost beach has long been a favorite with the in-crowd from Porto. A vast sandy expanse, it curves down from the River Minho, which forms the border with Spain. It is overlooked by the conical outline of Mount Santa Tecla over the frontier and a 15th-century fort on a small offshore island. As at other northern beaches, the water can be cold, the wind fresh, and the mornings shrouded in mist, but there is no denying the beauty of the location. See p. 500.

Portugal’s best Hotels

Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (Funchal): The grand old lady of Madeira hotels was built in the 1890s and was once the favored retreat of Sir Winston Churchill. Tea and scones are still served on the terrace at 5pm as a reminder of the time when the British upper set wintered here, but Reid’s has managed to shed a one-time fusty image without losing any of its period charm or superlative service standards. It’s wonderfully located amid clifftop gardens overlooking the Atlantic. See p. 534.

Dá Licença (Estremoz): Two guys from the Parisian antiques and fashion world have transformed an Alentejo farmstead into a work of art. Each of the enormous, light-filled suites and rooms is decorated with great style using locally mined marble and unique pieces from the owners’ world-class collection of Art Nouveau furniture and design. There are private pools hewn from marble, citrus groves and thousands of olive trees, and the opportunity to take dinner in art-themed private dining rooms. See p. 352.

The Yeatman (Porto): Emerging among the port wine lodges on the south bank of the River Douro, this vast, luxurious wine-themed hotel ticks all the boxes: fabulous views of Porto and the river from just about every angle (including the bathrooms); a luxurious spa with wine-based treatments; huge, tastefully decorated balconied rooms; a wine list with over 1,000 choices; and last, but by no means least, a gourmet restaurant with two Michelin stars. See p. 436.

Tivoli Palácio de Seteais (Sintra): The Dutch ambassador owned one of the most romantic palaces in Portugal, built in the 1780s on a forested hillside in Sintra. They say the name came later: Sete ais translates as seven sighs, apparently uttered by Portuguese nobles forced to sign a humiliating treaty here after an 1807 defeat by Napoleon’s invading armies. Any sighing you’re likely to do today will be from pleasure—at the views, the lavish gardens, the gloriously restored neoclassical building, and the chance to plunge into the lifestyle of the old-world aristocracy. See p. 208.

Pousada Palacio de Estoi (Faro): Our pick from the Pousada chain of historic inns was built in the 1780s as a pleasure palace for a viscount. Rococo domes and towers painted in raspberry and lemon shades overlook gardens filled with palms, fountains, and rows of statues. The central salon is a downsized version of the Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors. In contrast, guestrooms are in a new wing built along minimalist-but-comfy lines by an award-winning architect. See p. 282.

Rio do Prado (Óbidos): On the road from the white town of Óbidos to pristine west-coast beaches is this friendly eco-chic resort formed by concrete cubicles that blend into the grass. It might not sound tempting, but the bungalows are intriguingly crafted to allow in sunlight and decorated in sustainable good taste, with private patios, fireplaces inside and out, and theatrical stand-alone tubs. The garden is a delight, and the property’s organic herb and vegetable plot supplies the restaurant. See p. 250.

Six Senses Douro Valley (Lamego): Providing probably the most pampering you can get at any one place, this was the first European resort with the sensory overload approach of Asian luxury specialist Six Senses. It has acres of land among the Douro’s riverside vineyards, a match of award-winning contemporary design with the charm of the original 19th-century mansion, great restaurants, and a superlative spa. See p. 470.

The Independente (Lisbon): Lisbon has a reputation for some of the world’s hippest hostels, and this is one of the best: in the heart of the action in the Bairro Alto nightlife zone and with great views over the city. Basic dorm bunks go for as little as 10€ including breakfast—and this in a palatial, early-20th-century residence originally built for the Swiss ambassador! A couple of cool restaurants are in the building along with a rooftop bar—as well as some charming private suites, for those who can afford to pay for privacy. See p. 98.

Verride Palácio Santa Catarina (Lisbon): An 18th-century palace restored and renovated as one of the capital’s most luxurious. You’ll gape at marble arches, panels of antique tiles, and the monumental staircase. On the roof, the pool and bar/restaurant gift guests with 360-degree views over the rooftops and River Tagus. The king-size royal suites are draped in lemon-yellow silk and stucco work like piped cream. It’s regal but has a laid-back, unstuffy feel. See p. 96.

Ethereal views of gardens and countryside from the dining room in the Tivoli Palácio de Seteais.

Vidago Palace (Chaves): Of all Portugal’s grand old spa hotels, this is the grandest. Built in 1910 on the orders of King Carlos I, who wanted a resort to rival the best of Europe, it oozes Belle Epoque glamour. Built over natural spring waters famed for their reputed curative properties since Roman times, it is surrounded by 100 hectares (250 acres) of forested parkland. Inside, expect expanses of marble, silk wall hangings, and monumental staircases, all tastefully restored when the hotel reopened in 2010. The gourmet restaurant and 18-hole golf course are bonuses. It’s an hour’s drive from Porto in the heart of Trás-os-Montes. See p. 506.

Portugal’s best Restaurants

A Casa Guedes (Porto): Sandwiches are big in Porto, and it’s hard to beat the roast pork lathered with marinade and cooking juices and slapped into fist-size rolls in this retro hole-in-the-wall. If you really want to push the boat out, grab one with an added portion of creamy queijo da serra sheep’s cheese. Wash down with cold vinho verde or a black beer. See p. 445.

Belcanto (Lisbon): Lisbon’s finest fine dining, the flagship of star chef José Avillez with two Michelin stars. Avillez brings a refined but irreverent approach to his cooking, which is revolutionary but firmly rooted in Portuguese traditions. His exquisite tasting menus feature radical reworkings of classics like roast suckling pig or seafood rice. Belcanto occupies an elegant, intimate dining room on a plaza facing the opera house. See p. 108.

Casa de Chá da Boa Nova (Porto): First, the location: surging out of rocks lapped by the Atlantic surf. Then the building: Built as a teahouse in the 1960s, this low-rise concrete, glass, and wood construction is an early masterwork by architectural genius Álvaro Siza Vieira. Finally the food, produced by two-star chef Rui Paula, whose ocean menu features the likes of sea urchin brulée and red mullet with cashew and cassava. See p. 442.

Cervejaria Ramiro (Lisbon): Bright, noisy, and invariably crowded, Ramiro is the monarch of the marisqueiras (specialty seafood restaurants). The idea is to order a succession of shellfish dishes: clams steamed with garlic and cilantro, whole crabs (you get a mallet to smash the claws), shrimp in various sizes, goose barnacles that must be wrestled from their leathery sheaths. It’s traditional to follow up with a steak sandwich. Be prepared to wait for a table; it’s very popular. See p. 109.

Chico Elias (Tomar): Chef Maria do Céu is in her eighties but still works the ovens to produce the slow-roasted dishes that make this rustic eatery, near a UNESCO-listed Knights Templar stronghold, a temple of traditional food. You should call at least 24 hours in advance to order her best dishes like rabbit cooked in pumpkin or baked codfish with acorn-sweetened pork. Generations of celebrity photos on the walls bear witness to the timeless appeal. See p. 335.

Dom Feijão (Lisbon): The Lisbon Roma and Alvalade neighborhoods out towards the airport were built in the mid-20th century and became popular with families moving in from northern Portugal. Excellent restaurants reflecting northern tastes abound, and this bustling place is the best, in our humble opinion. Always packed, it serves cherished dishes like roast young goat or cod with egg and olives. See p. 116.

Fialho (Évora): The cooking of the Alentejo region is considered by many Portuguese to be the country’s best. It’s based on acorn-reared pork, free-range lamb, game in season, the finest olive oils, and naturally grown produce. For more than 70 years, this family-run restaurant has been an ambassador for the region’s authentic cruise. The roast lamb is sublime, the rice with wild pigeon delectable, the sliced black pork heavenly. A national treasure. See p. 348.

Midori (Sintra): It takes some doing for a Portuguese chef to win a Michelin star with Japanese cooking. But Pedro Almeida has done just that, using the freshest local seafood to craft a fabulously creative fusion of East and West in a luxury resort set among forested hills outside Lisbon. His fixed menus bring a parade of complex morsels like eucalyptus-cured amberjack sashimi or skate with cilantro, pickled tomato, and miso. See p. 212.

O Paulo (Alzejur): One of Portugal’s great gastronomic pleasures is sitting at a waterfront restaurant watching the surf roll up while tucking into expertly prepared seafood that was swimming beneath the waves a few hours before. There are many swell places to do that in the Algarve, but this clifftop spot on the wild west coast is our favorite. It overlooks the surfer beach of Arrifana and does wonderful dishes prepared in cataplanas (copper pots that are part wok, part pressure cooker) as well as whole grilled catch of the day. See p. 327.

Michelin-starred Midori marries East and West with its exquisitely plated dishes.

Solar Bragançano (Bragança): This treasure house of regional cuisine is located in a 17th-century mansion overlooking the main square up in the remote capital of northeastern Trás-os-Montes province. The antiques-filled dining room is the setting for meals whisked up by Chef Ana Maria Batista, who has run the place with her husband since the 1980s. It is especially sought-after in fall and winter, when the menu gives pride of place to game dishes like pheasant with chestnuts or hare stew with rice. See p. 512.

Portugal’s best Palaces & Castles

Palácio Nacional da Pena (Sintra): An extraordinary 19th-century confection sitting atop the Sintra hills, this palace was built by King consort Ferdinand II, the German husband of Portugal’s Queen Maria II. It boasts a potpourri of styles—Neo-Gothic, Moorish revival, imitation Renaissance, pastiches of Portugal’s maritime-inspired Manueline—inspired by the romantic mountaintop fantasy castles of Bavaria. Painted in shocking reds and yellows, it looms over thick forests, a palace fit for fairy tales. See p. 203.

Forte da Graça (Elvas): As Portugal battled to regain its independence from Spain in the 1640s, the border town of Elvas held a key position on the road from Madrid to Lisbon. To fortify it, they brought in a German military architect, who built the biggest fort of its type in the world. A massive series of defensive walls and ditches circle the pretty, whitewashed town. The city fortifications and the aqueduct ensuring the inhabitants could get water even during a siege are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. See p. 358.

An architectural mash-up in castle-rich Portugal, the Palácio Nacional da Pena was inspired by German King Ludvig’s fantastical Bavarian castles.

Casa de Mateus (Vila Real): Familiar around the world to fans of the rosé wine that bears its name and image on the label, this is the most beautiful of the baroque manor houses scattered around the winelands of northern Portugal. The reflecting pool out front perfectly duplicates the white-and-gray stone facade with its double staircase and decorative spires, partly the work of the great Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni in the 1740s. It’s surrounded by delightful formal gardens. See p. 505.

Real Edificio de Mafra (Mafra): Completed in 1755, this was originally supposed to be a convent, but King João V decided he’d spend some of his Brazilian gold-mine riches expanding it. The result is a monster-size mix of church and royal residence covering an area bigger than seven football fields. Its vast, yellow-painted facade dominates the little town of Mafra. Inside, the royal apartments and old hospital are well worth visiting, but the real treasure is the rococo library lined with almost 40,000 books dating back to the 14th century. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 2019. See p. 214.

Portugal’s best Museums

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon): If you go to one museum in Portugal, this should be it. Whatever your taste in art—from ancient Egyptian funeral masks to French Impressionist paintings, Persian carpets to Lalique jewelry—you’re sure to find something interesting. The remarkable collection was amassed by Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian (1869–1955), who found a home in neutral Portugal during World War II. The museum complex also includes concert halls and a separate modern art museum, all housed in discreet 1960s buildings integrated into shady gardens that are a peaceful getaway in the heart of the city. See p. 144.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Lisbon): Wherever you go in Portugal you’ll see azulejos—painted ceramic tiles used to decorate buildings inside and out, from ancient churches to modern metro stations. The best place to understand this thoroughly Portuguese art form is this museum situated in a 16th-century convent in Lisbon’s riverside Madre de Deus neighborhood. The collection contains tiles dating back over 600 years. Highlights include a giant panel showing Lisbon before the great earthquake of 1755 and the convent church filled with tiles and gold leaf. See p. 140.

Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art (Porto): Porto’s modern art museum is housed in a fine Art Deco villa and a purpose-built contemporary gallery designed by local architect Álvaro Siza Vieira. It holds a huge collection of Portuguese and international art from the 20th and 21st centuries and hosts temporary exhibitions, serving as the most dynamic cultural center in the north. Its latest big acquisition was more than 80 works by Spanish surrealist Joan Miró. See p. 430.

Modern lines and minimalist white of the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art contrast with Porto’s robin’s-egg skies.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Lisbon): The country’s best collection of Portuguese and international painting is housed in a 17th-century palace high on a cliff overlooking the River Tagus. Much of the collection was brought together from monasteries and noble homes after the civil war of the 1830s. Among the highlights: the nightmarish Temptations of St. Anthony by Hieronymus Bosch; Japanese screen paintings showing the arrival of Portuguese mariners in the 16th century; and Nuno Gonçalves’ Panels of St. Vincent, depicting Lisbon society at the time of the Discoveries. The gardens at the back offer peaceful views over the river. See p. 137.

Museu de Arte Contemporânea–Centro Cultural de Belém (Lisbon): In the depths of the bunker-like Centro Cultural de Belém is a groundbreaking collection of modern and contemporary art. It was put together by Joe Berardo, an emigrant from Madeira who made a fortune in South Africa. The museum covers the greats of 20th-century art including Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein, and Giorgio de Chirico, along with cutting-edge artists of today. See p. 132.

Portugal’s best Churches & Abbeys

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon): Begun in 1502 in the riverside Belém district, this monastery is the best example of the Manueline style developed in Portugal, which combines late-Gothic and Renaissance architecture with motifs inspired by the great maritime voyages of discovery. Built from white limestone, the soaring nave of the main church looks almost organic, like a coral-and-algae-crusted sea cave. Inside are the tombs of explorer Vasco da Gama and poets Luís de Camões and Fernando Pessoa. The cloister, decorated by fine Manueline stonework, is a delight. See p. 133.

Mosteiro de Alcobaça (Alcobaça): Don’t be fooled by the ornate baroque facade added in the 18th century. This church was founded in 1153 by Portugal’s founding father, King Afonso Henriques. Inside, the slender, soaring nave is done in unadorned early-Gothic style, then newly imported from France by Cistercian monks. The church is the resting place of several medieval royals, among them King Pedro II and his murdered mistress Inês de Castro, whose tragic story has long inspired poets and musicians. Their extravagant tombs are treasures of Gothic stonework. See p. 253.

Igreja de São Francisco (Porto): Porto’s Golden Church doesn’t look like much from its plain Gothic exterior. But inside it is a gilded grotto, shimmering from floor to ceiling with wood carvings coated in gold leaf, a technique known as talha dourada developed by Portuguese craftsmen in the 18th century when the precious metal was pouring in from Brazilian mines. The church dates back to 1244. Amid all the gold, the towering Tree of Jesse sculpture showing the family tree of Jesus is a standout. See p. 422.

Mosteiro da Batalha (Batalha): In 1385, a Portuguese army defeated a much larger Spanish invasion force in a field south of Leiria, guaranteeing the country’s independence for 200 years. To mark the victory, King João I, who led the troops, erected near the battlefield this masterpiece monastery in the Flamboyant style of Gothic architecture. Using local limestone that glows golden in the setting sun, a succession of architects brought in influences from France, England, and beyond to make a unique construction. Unfortunately, 20th-century planners were less gifted, placing a busy highway close to the main facade. See p. 263.

The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Lisbon is a dramatic showcase of the Manueline style of architecture.

Convento de Cristo (Tomar): Another World Heritage Site, this convent in the pretty little town of Tomar once served as headquarters for the Knights Templar, who held off a siege by Arab forces in 1190. Around that time, they built a circular church at the center of the convent, taking as their model the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. Inside, it is richly decorated with Gothic sculptures and paintings. Successive Portuguese monarchs kept adding to the grandeur of the convent, particularly during the Discoveries period, adorning it with some of the best examples of Manueline stonework. See p. 332.

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Portugal in Context

W here the land ends and the sea begins was how the great poet Luís Vaz de Camões defined his homeland in the 16th century. Portugal has always been shaped by the ocean. For centuries it turned its back on its often prickly Spanish neighbors and the rest of Europe. Instead, it reached out to continents beyond the Atlantic, gaining riches though maritime trade and forging Europe’s first and longest-lasting colonial empire.

In Camões’ day, Portuguese seafarers like Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan pushed back the boundaries of the known world, discovering routes to Africa, Asia, and America and laying the foundations for a global empire. Today’s Portugal carries the legacy of that Age of Exploration, from the Brazilian gold that lines its churches to the diversity of the population and the exotic touches that spice Portuguese cuisine.

The sea also provided an escape route. In hard times, millions of emigrants sailed for a better life, founding communities that today flourish as outposts of Portuguese culture, from Massachusetts to Macau, Paris to São Paulo.

Maritime expansion had a dark side. Portugal initiated the trans-Atlantic slave trade that lasted hundreds of years. Up to the 1970s, the dictatorship in Lisbon fought to cling to its overseas colonies. The wars left Portugal cut off from the European mainstream, economically backward, and culturally isolated. Since a peaceful 1974 revolution restored democracy, the country has taken huge strides toward modernity. Portugal joined the European Union in 1986 and adopted the euro as its currency in 1999. Today, Lisbon is fast developing as a tech hub. Tourism is booming, and increasingly foreigners are coming to stay, thanks to Portugal’s reputation as a safe, easy-on-the-wallet destination, plus the timeless advantages of living on Europe’s southwestern seaboard—from the endless sun-kissed beaches to superlative seafood and cities brimming with heritage.

COVID-19: information for travelers

Portugal lifted almost all COVID-19 restrictions in 2022. As we write, travelers no longer need to test or show proof of vaccination on arrival. Mandatory wearing of masks is limited to health facilities and nursing homes. The authorities still recommend masks in public transport, pharmacies, and crowded indoor spaces, but they are no longer obligatory. The State of Alert relating to COVID was lifted in November 2022, and people testing positive are no longer required to self-isolate. Portugal is Europe’s most vaccinated country, with 264 jabs per 100 people (as of Nov 2022) and an ongoing campaign to roll out booster shots. If you need a test to travel on to countries requiring them, there are facilities at Portuguese airports and around the country, but you will need to pay. The National Health Service (SNS) has a COVID hotline at  80/824-24-24 (select 9 for English). For updates, check the websites of the Portuguese tourist board (www.visitportugal.com) or the U.S. Embassy (https://pt.usembassy.gov).

Portugal Today

Portugal rarely makes the international news. The country is peaceful, with stable politics and low crime. The Global Peace Index ranks it the sixth safest country in the world, behind Iceland, New Zealand, Ireland, Denmark, and Austria. And Portugal has way better weather than any of those places.

Recent studies have ranked Portugal as the best place to buy a second home, the fourth-best country for international retirees and a top 10 location for business expats. CEO World magazine rated it 22nd worldwide for healthcare, just ahead of Canada and Singapore and eight places above the United States.

Little wonder then that Portugal has become an expat magnet. Census results in 2022 showed a 37% increase in foreign residents over the decade. One in ten in a population of 10 million was born outside the country.

Waves of pensioners from France, Italy, and northern Europe are attracted by the sunshine, security, laid-back lifestyle, and expat tax breaks. Wealthy Chinese have been the biggest beneficiaries of a Golden Visa scheme offering residency in exchange for investment. Brazilians are the biggest immigrant community. Increasingly, however, they are being joined by North Americans.

Official figures show that the number of U.S. residents more than doubled from 2018 to 2021, with signs that more American retirees and digital nomads were flocking in as pandemic restrictions eased. In 2022, Americans overtook Brazilians as the main overseas buyers of high-end property and replaced Chinese as the biggest Golden Visa investors.

Portugal-bound U.S. vacationers, making the most of the muscular dollar, were surpassed only by Brits and Spaniards in the summer of 2022. Over a million arrived in the first 9 months of the year.

The country they are coming to is a young but firmly established democracy, stalwart NATO ally, enthusiastic member of the European Union, and something of a haven of political centrism.

A center-left government that won a third term with a landslide in 2022 cohabits with a center-right president, himself re-elected in 2021 with 60% of the vote. A radical right-wing party emerged to grab a dozen seats in parliament, but its success has largely been at the expense of a declining far left.

The economy has made enormous strides since the 1974 revolution that put the country on the road to democracy after over 4 decades of dictatorship. Portuguese grumble that the expat Shangri-La is less appealing for locals who endure average salaries of just over 1,000€ and state pensions around half that.

Making things worse, the country is still in recovery mode after a quickfire succession of heavy blows from the global recession, COVID-19, and the economic fallout from Russia’s attack on Ukraine.

Still, modern-day Portugal is unrecognizable from the backward dictatorship that limped on until the 1970s. Under the authoritarian regime, wives were forbidden to travel without husbands’ permission, homosexuality was outlawed, and poor children received minimal education that left a quarter of the country’s adults illiterate. Today, women make up almost 40% of lawmakers (compared to 30% in Canada and 28% in the United States). Same-sex marriage was legalized in 2010. Education is free and compulsory until the age of 18, and foreign students fight for places in its increasingly well-reputed universities.

Looking Back: History

Ancient Beginnings Legend has it that Lisbon was founded by the Greek hero Ulysses, somewhat off course as he voyaged home from the Trojan War. True or not, what is certain is that humans and beasts have lived in Portugal for several millennia. Some of Europe’s most spectacular dinosaur remains were unearthed at Lourinhã up the coast from Lisbon. Rock carvings in the Côa valley are among humanity’s oldest known art. In the Iron Age, Celtic tribes traded with visiting Mediterranean seafarers: Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians.

Dateline

The Romans began muscling in around 200

b.c.

as part of their struggle with Carthage for Mediterranean supremacy. They met tough resistance from the Lusitanians, a Celtic tribe whose leader, Viriato, is Portugal’s oldest national hero. As usual, the Romans won, but they named their new province Lusitania after their defeated foes. For around 600 years, they built roads and cities, kept order, and eventually introduced Christianity.

Invasions from North & South As Roman power waned, the Iberian Peninsula filled with Germanic folk. The Suevi ruled northern Portugal for 150 years. They were ousted in 588 by the Visigoths, who built a Christian kingdom covering Spain and Portugal, and made Braga a major religious center.

In 711, Islamic warriors crossed from North Africa. They took less than a decade to conquer almost the entire peninsula and would remain for more than 8 centuries. At times, Portugal formed part of powerful caliphates based in Cordoba, Seville, or Marrakesh. At others, local emirs ran independent Muslim kingdoms like those in the Algarve, Lisbon, and Mértola. Arabic influences are still felt in Portugal’s culture, cuisine, and language.

Portugal is Born In the early days, resistance to Muslim rule was led by the Kingdom of Asturias in the high mountains of northern Spain. Toward the end of the 9th century, land between the Minho and Douro rivers was reconquered and given the name Portocale after a Roman-era town close to today’s Porto.

Christian knights from across Europe traveled to join the fight. One was Henry of Burgundy, given the title Count of Portugal in 1092 by his father-in-law, one of the kings of León. When Henry died young, his son, Afonso Henriques, took the title, but since the boy was just 3 years old, his mother Teresa got to rule the country.

As he grew, Afonso became unhappy with his mother’s politics and love life, especially her cozy relations with a leading Spanish nobleman. The youngster led a rebellion by Portuguese nobles, defeated Teresa at a battle outside Guimarães, and in 1139 declared himself King Afonso I of Portugal.

Impressed by Afonso’s prowess battling the Muslims and his enthusiastic church construction program, the Pope confirmed Portugal’s status as an independent kingdom in 1179.

The Reconquista With the aid of Northern European crusaders, Afonso expanded his kingdom southward. Lisbon was conquered after a 4-month siege in 1147. Fighting ebbed and flowed, but Afonso Henriques’ great-grandson, Afonso III, completed the Portuguese Reconquista in 1249, driving the Muslims out of their last stronghold in Faro.

The danger now came from the east in the shape of the powerful Spanish kingdom of Castile. In 1385, Spanish king Juan I sent an invasion force of 30,000 to back his claim to the Portuguese throne. They were defeated at the Battle of Aljubarrota by much-outnumbered Portuguese forces in a struggle that preserved Portuguese independence and helped forge the national identity. Legend has it a woman baker joined the fray at a decisive moment, whacking several Castilian knights with heavy wooden bread trays. French cavalry backed the Spanish while English archers joined the defenders under the Anglo-Portuguese treaty of 1373—the world’s oldest surviving diplomatic alliance. Victorious King João I built the magnificent Gothic monastery at Batalha, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to celebrate his win.

The Age of DisCovery With its frontiers secured, Portugal started looking overseas. In 1415, João I opened the era of maritime expansion when he captured the city of Ceuta on the coast of North Africa. João’s son, Henry, fought at the battle to win Ceuta from the Moroccans. He never voyaged farther, but would change the face of world history and be forever known as Henry the Navigator.

Henry gathered sailors and scholars on the windswept southwestern tip of Europe at Sagres to brainstorm on what may lay beyond. Using new navigational technology and more maneuverable boats, the Portuguese sent out probing voyages that reached Madeira Island off the coast of Africa around 1420 --and the mid-Atlantic Azores 8 years later.

A breakthrough came in 1434, when captain Gil Eanes sailed around Cape Bojador, a remote Saharan promontory that had marked the limits of European knowledge of the African coast. Eanes showed the sea beyond was not boiling and monster-filled, as was believed. The way was opened to Africa and beyond.

In the years that followed, Portuguese navigators pushed down the West African coast looking for gold, ivory, spices, and slaves. By 1482, Diogo Cão reached the mouth of the Congo River. In 1488, Bartolomeu Dias sailed past Africa’s southern tip: He called it the Cape of Storms, but the name was quickly changed to Cape of Good Hope to encourage further voyages. (That worked.) Vasco da Gama traded and raided up the coast of east Africa before reaching India in 1498. World trade would never be the same. Over the next 4 decades, Portuguese explorers moved into southeast Asia, up the coast of China, and eventually into Japan. Along the way they set up trading posts and colonies. Portugal grew rich by dominating East-West exchanges and forging the first global empire. But the Portuguese also destroyed cities reluctant to submit to their power and frequently massacred civilians.

There were setbacks. In the 1480s, King João II rejected repeated requests to finance the westward exploration plans of a Genovese seafarer named Christopher Columbus, who eventually claimed the New World for his Spanish sponsors. And King Manuel I took a dislike to veteran Portuguese sea dog Fernão de Magalhães. Piqued, he crossed the border with his plans to reach Asia by sailing west and ended up leading the Spanish fleet that became the first to sail around the world. Later historians called him Ferdinand Magellan.

The Portuguese also moved west. Six years after Spain and Portugal agreed to divide up the world with the 1492 Treaty of Tordesillas, Pedro Álvares Cabral landed in Brazil, which conveniently lies on the eastern, Portuguese side of the dividing line.

A small arched building in the Algarve coastal town of Lagos has a grim past. It is reputed to be the site of Europe’s oldest African slave market, first used in the early 15th century. Early Portuguese settlers in Brazil began using captured natives as slaves, but as demands of sugar plantations and gold mines grew in the 17th and 18th centuries, more and more slaves were shipped from Africa. Slavery was abolished in Portugal itself in 1761, but it continued in its African colonies until 1869 and in Brazil until 1888, 66 years after the South American country’s independence. Historians estimate Portuguese vessels carried almost 6 million Africans into slavery.

Independence lost & restored In 1578, Portugal overreached. King Sebastião I, an impetuous 24-year-old, invaded Morocco. He was last seen charging into enemy lines at the disastrous Battle of Alcácer Quibir, where a large slice of the Portuguese nobility was wiped out. Sebastião had neglected to father an heir before he set off. An elderly great-uncle briefly took over, but he was a cardinal known as Henry the Chaste, so when he died in 1580, Portugal was left without a monarch. King Philip II of Spain decided he could do the job. His army marched in, crushed local resistance, seized a fortune in Lisbon, and extinguished Portuguese independence for the next 60 years.

The Iberian union made Philip ruler of the greatest empire the world had ever seen, controlling much of the Americas, a network of colonies in Asia and Africa, and European territories that included the Netherlands and half of Italy. Spanish rule strained Portugal’s old alliance with England: The Spanish Armada sailed from Lisbon, and Sir Francis Drake raided the Portuguese coast.

By 1640, the Portuguese had had enough. While Spain was distracted fighting France in the 30 Years War, a group of nobles revolted and declared the Duke of Bragança to be King João IV. It took 28 years, but the Portuguese eventually won the War of Restoration. An obelisk in one of Lisbon’s main plazas commemorates the victory.

Meanwhile a new enemy, the Dutch, had seized some of Portugal’s overseas territories. Malacca and Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka) were lost. Faced with such threats, João IV strengthened Portugal’s British alliance by marrying his daughter Catherine of Bragança to King Charles II. Her dowry included Tangiers and Mumbai. Perhaps more significantly for the British, she introduced them to marmalade and the habit of drinking hot water flavored with a new-fangled Asian herb they called tea. In return, the British named one of their North American settlements in her honor: Queens.

Fortunately for the Portuguese, they managed to hang on to Brazil through these turbulent times. At the end of the 17th century, huge gold deposits were found inland from São Paulo. The gold rush made King João V the richest monarch in Europe. He used it to build the vast palace at Mafra and to line baroque churches up and down the country with glimmering gilt carvings.

DISASTER & decline On All Saints’ Day in 1755, churches were packed when Lisbon was struck by a great earthquake. The tremor was followed by a tsunami and raging fire. Much of the city was destroyed and up to 50,000 people are believed to have died. Reconstruction was led by Prime Minister Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, later Marquis of Pombal. He laid out Lisbon’s downtown, or Baixa, in the grid pattern of sturdy, four-story buildings that remains today, although the Gothic ruins of the Carmo Convent were left overlooking the city as