Louisiana Cookin'

RUM’S RENAISSANCE

ONE OF THE ENDURING mysteries of Louisiana history is why it failed to spawn a vibrant rum distilling industry two centuries ago. In the early 19th century, ads appeared in Louisiana papers for “rum from the north” and rum from Jamaica, the English islands, and Boston, Massachusetts—but not for rums from Louisiana.

That’s strange. The state had abundant sugarcane. It had the know-how—the French had been distilling for centuries. And it had merchants who

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