My Provence in all zenitude...
By Rafael. F.
()
About this ebook
I wanted to make this book a guide that will help you discover (or rediscover), thanks to my photos, my historical research and my feelings, a beautiful region!
"My Provence in all zenitude" will take you to the Luberon, the Vaucluse, the edge of the Mediterranean, the Var and its hinterland; in search of scents, colours, stories and flavours that will remain, I hope, forever etched in your mind.
Rafael. F.
J'avais tout juste quatre ans lorsque ma famille et moi sommes venus habiter en Provence. Et depuis, je n'ai jamais quitté cette belle région ; cela fait maintenant presque cinquante ans. Je me suis toujours considéré comme provençal d'adoption. Pour être honnête, si je devais la quitter, cela me "fendrait le coeur". J'aime tant ses reliefs, ses couleurs, ses villages, sa faune, sa flore et ses odeurs. Je suis donc parti visiter des villages, des villes, des forêts ; dans le Luberon, le Var et son arrière-pays, les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, les Alpilles et le Vaucluse. Et puis je me suis dit : "Pourquoi ne pas faire découvrir, ou redécouvrir, son authenticité grâce à ce livre photo ?" Cet ouvrage vient en complément de "Ma Provence en toute zénitude", où mes clichés ne font qu'illustrer mes textes. J'ai essayé, au travers de mes photos, de vous transmettre toutes les émotions que j'ai pu ressentir lors de mes excursions.
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My Provence in all zenitude... - Rafael. F.
Cassis...
When you decide to make a trip to Provence, if there isone city that remains unmissable, it is the commune of Cassis.
I have been going there regularly for many years now. And everytime, I feel this sense of discovery, the color of the water, the smells. Not to mention the sun illuminating the façades with multiple shades that change throughout the day. It’s like the photographer putting a new filter on every photo.
Area : 26,86 km²
Population : 6782 (2020)
This small Mediterranean port with narrow and intertwined streets, fraternises with a sea with such unpredictable character and its limestone cliffs where you can see a castle dating from the Carolingian Empire of the 8th century.
I love strolling by the water on these worn and time-shiny cobblestones. Looking at them, it is very easy to imagine the millions of people who have done the same thing in past centuries. Over the decades, Cassis has kept his identity. Its architecture did evolve over time, but its leaders never distorted or unravelled it.
Personally, I always make sure to arrive around noon. So I can sit on the terrace. And whether you’re in winter or summer, wearing a T-shirt or a big jacket, restaurants and brasseries are always busy with tourists and locals.
I can admire these magnificent pointus
(Marseille boats) in bright colours and so well maintained by their owners.
And if you’re patient, you’ll probably be lucky to see restaurateurs buy their morning catch right on the spot. Hard to eat fresher... right? A word of advice: listen to the conversations that emerge from this transaction
. Because everyone will go from his comment which will prove to be more or less relevant, it must be admitted!
Then, in order to digest this good meal with Mediterranean colours and flavours that will have awakened my taste buds, I walk along the dike, on these stones with uncertain reliefs, to reach at its end its lighthouse, polished by the whims of the sea and the weather. And there, there is no escaping the pleasure of the spray that will come to tread and refresh your face, before crashing on the rocks. And if, like me, you like to meditate or simply decompress in front of a water reflecting the soft rays of the sun: you will be in the right place....
But Cassis is not just a port and shaded alleys. It is also a beautiful natural park protected and respected by its inhabitants, where you can go hiking or cycling, alone or with your family, on marked and safe trails. When I go there with my backpack and camera, I can’t get enough of the scenery.
It is as if I were alone in the world in front of this beauty that nature makes available to me. What is strange and reassuring is the respect that walkers of all generations can have. We speak without shouting, we greet each other by crossing each other, we make sure to walk on the stones, also polished by time, without ever deteriorating or tearing away the plants. During this walk, you will also have the opportunity, for the bravest, to swim in water of such intense blue that it would make jealous the most beautiful beaches called paradisiacal.
When I say the bravest
, it must be known, in all objectivity, that the waters of Cassis are known for their invigorating freshness. Especially if our beloved mistral visited us the days before swimming!
However, if you do not have a sporting temperament, or the appropriate physical ability, you will still be able to see the Cassis Natural Park by the sea. Indeed, the city offers guided tours of its coasts and calanques by boat, leaving from the port. Having had the chance to do so, I can assure you that it is worth a look.
A word of advice: in high season, remember to book a seat!
Historically, the peninsula once lived with its quarries. Their remains are still very well preserved and easily visible. It was on this site that the famous Cassis stone, renowned for its solidity and longevity, was extracted. In previous centuries, many of the kitchens in Marseille had sinks carved into this rock. Nowadays, these batteries
, as we call them in France, are sold at a high price and are often used to decorate summer kitchens. If one day you have the chance to walk on Alexandria’s docks, you will tread on Cassis stone, among other places...
In short, if you are like me, if you love the beauty and authenticity of a place where you can escape for a few hours, you cannot pass Cassis without stopping!
By the way, we don't pronounce Cassis's S.
It is for the fruit that it is pronounced.
La Sainte-Baume...
The highest point is the Yoke of the Eagle and the signal of the Beguines at 1,148 metres.
Then, some forty kilometres from Cassis, stands the Sainte-Baume massif, in the commune of Plan-d’Aups-Sainte-Baume. It is with majesty that the latter comes to be established, making the junction between the Bouches-du-Rhône and the Var.
Area : 45 000 hectares
However, it will take a few kilometres of narrow pinhead bends to reach the site. So, adorned with my backpack, a pair of walking shoes, and my inseparable camera, I am ready for my ascent.
The first feeling you get when you enter this forest is the very imposing aspect of the place. You feel so small at the feet of these trees, tens of metres high and centuries old. It is as if each of them tries to make contact with the heavens, but never succeeds. Their trunks are long and regular.
My favourite season to go there is autumn. Nature is literally changing. The colour scheme that heralds the end of summer and the beginning of